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Post by marius on May 3, 2012 20:23:51 GMT 2
That is an excellent price Marius
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Nikki Lada
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Post by Nikki Lada on May 5, 2012 8:38:29 GMT 2
Hi Guys Things are looking up! Andre came around yesterday afternoon and after checking all the connections on Monday decided to take the instrument cluster apart. On doing so he discovered that a copper strip inside the printed circuit had burnt off on the main positive terminal to the rev counter and when he bridged it everything worked fine. Not sure what caused it but I will try to get all the resisters checked out by some radio guys next week and investigate the alty thing as well. I will leave it out for now. Spikes – thank you for all the TBI info and other stuff you have emailed me during the past few days – it must have gobbled up quite a bit of your bandwidth and I can’t thank you enough! Through a link to a Russian site that Spikes also sent to me I discovered that the big green resister does get mad hot and I found a photo I will try to attach where it had actually burnt a hole in the printed circuit. As such, I asked Andre to pull mine away as much a possible as it seemed a bit too close for comfort! I’ve also learned a lot more about resisters and diodes than I knew a week ago thanks to a very easy to understand website that Spikes also put me on to As the drawing in the manual only indicated 2 resistors, and Nikita had 7, making it quite confusing for me and my ‘assistants’, ;D Spikes also emailed Pavel asking if he could assist us with a clearer diagram. The very helpful Pavel then came to the rescue with the following link and Sheet 12 Appendix A, showing 5 resistors, came in very handy – thank you Pavel! www.niva-faq.msk.ru/tehnika/elektro/panel/sc.htm Guys – thank you all once again for all the incredible assistance now and in the past. As I said earlier, I would be totally lost without it. NIKKI
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Nikki Lada
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Post by Nikki Lada on May 5, 2012 8:41:21 GMT 2
Received an error trying to enclose the photo so I'll try again. NIKKI Attachments:
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spikes
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Post by spikes on May 5, 2012 8:53:00 GMT 2
Hi Nikki,
Good news indeed! The "broken" connection can be permanently bridged with thin insulated copper wire, soldered across the "end" of the break. Same thickness as the wires leading into the cluster Connector plugs. Otherwise just a trail of solder. Sending the ifo was no problem at all. Uncapped ADSL from mweb
good luck
Spikes
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Post by keithbatkins on May 5, 2012 12:33:30 GMT 2
Glad that you are 'nearly sorted' Nikki :-) On the topic of electrics..... A 'once off' (at least I hope that it is only once off :-( ) staring problem with CERATOTH this morning. Put in the ignition key, switched on, starter worked as usual, motor turned over but as I'd forgotten to pull out the choke a little didn't quite 'catch'. Switched off, pulled out the choke and tried again.......nothing.....just that horrible 'click sound' that you get with a nearly flat battery. Tried again with the same result and again....same result just a 'click'. Up goes the bonnet (hood?) and check battery which is new (replaced after CERATOTH's bath night). Reading at 12.98 volts so all OK there. Try again to start, starter works, engine fires up as in the past with no problems :-) So the question is......what caused this 'clitch' which has never happened before ? Was I too impatient in my trying to restart so quickly, did a solenoid (or something?) need time to 'reset' itself ? Or is this now a real problem which is going to happen again and again unless I get it fixed ? Nothing worse than a unreliable Lada Thoughts, comments and advice please. Regards to all at LOCSA, Keith and CERATOTH.
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spikes
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Post by spikes on May 5, 2012 14:16:50 GMT 2
Hi Keith Keep an eye on Ari's progress.. he also dunked his NIVA a couple of weeks back and that starter acted up like yours. He has pulled it to check for corrosion/rust and wear Regards Spikes
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on May 5, 2012 14:18:11 GMT 2
Your starter solenoid is starting to reach the end of its life.
Ari
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Post by Charles on May 5, 2012 18:39:53 GMT 2
Hi Keith
That is the solenoid not engaging fully. They start to do it when they are on their way out just like Ari said.
Charles
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Ihar
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Lada Niva Driver
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Post by Ihar on May 5, 2012 18:50:30 GMT 2
Whoever orders next from Pavel, please let me know, I suspect Whitey needs a new solenoid as well, so may as well get a spare for Sharkie at the same time
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Post by keithbatkins on May 5, 2012 21:00:21 GMT 2
Thanks for that Guys. Is there a SA available solenoid ? Can any 'good' auto-electrician fit the solenoid (either original part from Pavel or the SA alternative if available) ? and just how difficult is it to remove the starter motor to fit the solenoid ? Would I do better by ordering and fitting a complete new starter motor from Pavel ? This could well be my first venture in ordering from Pavel and if that is the route I follow I will happily order more solenoids for others to make up the package weight. Regards to all at LOCSA, Keith and CERATOTH.
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Post by keithbatkins on May 5, 2012 22:01:14 GMT 2
Hi again Guys. I've tried looking on the LadaPower web site for the starter motor and the solenoids. Found the starter motors....one original and one chinese option but nothing seems to come up for the starter motor solenoids. Am I doing something wrong or does this mean that they are not available from Pavel ? Regards to all at LOCSA. Keith and CERATOTH
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on May 5, 2012 22:22:31 GMT 2
Hi Keith If the solinoids (or any other part) are not available on his website send him an email asking for one and he will get back to you. As to the difficulty of installation. The are 2 ways, 1 remove the right splash plate and the alty and then fiddle and squeeze it in, or 2 remove the TC then the GB then the Clutch and flywheel and then its a breeze. Ari
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Post by danie on May 6, 2012 7:07:03 GMT 2
Hi Keith
As far as I know there are different starter motors on our local Ladas, and the solenoids on the different starter motors are also different.
So you will have to make sure exactly what starter motor has been fitted to your Lada, and then supply details to Pavel.
I am definately interested in a spare solenoid, should you be able to help. Will forward details of my starter motor later.
Danie
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Post by danie on May 6, 2012 8:34:42 GMT 2
Hi Keith I forgot - while you are thinking of importing solenoids , it will make sense to import starter Brushes as well. Should you be able to help, I'm in for a set of Brushes as well. Danie
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Post by keithbatkins on May 6, 2012 9:17:55 GMT 2
Hi again Guys.....and thanks Danie for the advice about the brushes....very sensible. Thanks Ari.....sounds easy....are you free later today ( around lunch time) to show me how to do it ? ;D ;D ;D It's starting to sound as though it might just be better to import the complete starter motor from Pavel together with a spare solenoid and set of brushes. I'm going to take some time next week to see if I can find some identifying numbers on CERATOTH's starter motor without having to take it out (doubt if I would be able to put it back in again ). I didn't realise that there could be different starter motors in 'our' Nivas :-( and I would not take the risk of ordering parts which might not fit my particular motor. Do you think that Pavel would be able to identify which one is fitted to CERATOTH from the VIN number ? If I do go down the 'buy new motor' route I am still happy to order other solenoids and brushes but I really would need to know exactly on which particular model starter motor they are to be fitted. Regards to all at LOCSA, Keith and CERATOTH
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Nikki Lada
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Post by Nikki Lada on May 6, 2012 10:14:17 GMT 2
Hi Keith When I had similar problems a while back I discovered that although two replacement starters used to be available locally this was no longer the case. One was a Bosch but I don’t recall the other. I was also told at the time by Chris Swales that two Russian models were fitted in the SA Lada and that one type could be repaired but the other couldn’t. I didn't really go into this because I found it cheaper to import a new one and the housing on mine was cracked. If your starter is the original Russian one it should have quite a few stamps and ‘hieroglyphics’ on it which should enable Pavel to identify it. Refer to the link below for photographs of my old one which will give you an idea of what I am talking about. The stamps (shown on the 2nd photograph) identify it as a K-ZATE model which is what I replaced it with. Lack of stamps, or anything 'Russian looking' could indicate it maybe one of the two aftermarket ones that I referred to earlier that are no longer available. locsa.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=technical&thread=745&page=1Having been through all this my advice would be to just import a new one but I would request one of the lighter models as opposed to the 5kg ones shown on Pavel’s website. Mine weighed just 3kg which makes it much cheaper in postage and also much easier to install. Hope this helps. NIKKI
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Post by Charles on May 6, 2012 13:29:48 GMT 2
Keith if you remove the alternator aswell then it is fairly easy.
Charles
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Post by keithbatkins on May 6, 2012 15:21:23 GMT 2
Thanks again Guys. Nikki....do you know if your 'lighter' starter motor was the "good quality" Chinese one shown on Pavel's website? It looks a lot smaller than the OME Russian one shown and your comments that it was easier to install would go someway to confirming this. Is there perhaps a third type of starter motor which is not shown on Pavel's website? Do you still perhaps have Pavel's invoice with a parts number on it for reference ? It does seem that I am going down the route of importing a new unit rather than trying to sort out a solenoid for CERATOTH's existing motor......this really does seem to be the best way forward. Regards to all at LOCSA, Keith and CERATOTH.
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Post by Charles on May 6, 2012 16:19:47 GMT 2
Just something interesting. One can not believe how technology have changed. Look at the size of a Niva starter. Starter on new cars are lave the size if not even smaller and much lighter. Also they are stronger and draw less current.
On cars with stop start technology, they have brush less motors. They only use electro magnets to turn the starter. Making it completely maintenance free. Only thing is that if something does go wrong its a case of throw it away.
Charles
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darrel
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Post by darrel on May 6, 2012 18:09:47 GMT 2
My son called me saying he is stranded just outside Botrivier, no Electrical Power. All weird things ran though my mind as I drove there. Upon inspection I found that the standard battery terminals were loose and they had some spacers between the posts and the terminals and were corroded. I cleaned them and made another spacer plan with a garden hose clamp. Jump started the Lada and when we got home, I immediately bought proper terminals and replaced them. Problem solved!
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Post by Charles on May 6, 2012 18:13:57 GMT 2
90% of all problems on a Niva is caused by small stuff like that.
Charles
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Nikki Lada
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Post by Nikki Lada on May 6, 2012 19:08:24 GMT 2
Hi Keith My ‘lighter’ starter wasn’t the Chinese one (this also weighs 5 kg) and I didn’t buy mine from Pavel either. I bought it from another Russian guy (Valeriy) before Pavel came on the scene. Unfortunately, he doesn’t trade anymore but Pavel seems equally good and basically, if you provide the details, he can get you anything you want whether or not it is shown on his website . It was the same with Valeriy so I used to browse the Lada Parts Russia Online Shop which had a great selection – all from factory approved suppliers - and after looking there I would then decide exactly what I wanted. Unfortunately, this site seems to be down at the moment. The K-Zate starter I bought is a genuine part from one of the factory approved suppliers, it cost me $150.00 and my particular model weighs 3kg. A photograph of the details is attached and I know that you can buy separate solenoids if required. Good luck! NIKKI
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Nikki Lada
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Post by Nikki Lada on May 6, 2012 19:12:31 GMT 2
Here are the details of my starter - the later models now have a sticker and a stamp - no engraving. NIKKI
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on May 8, 2012 18:07:43 GMT 2
90% of all problems on a Niva is caused by small stuff like that. Charles Charles, i agree. Most of the time when i have to solve an electrical problem to some Niva it's the owners own fault. Once to often a junk instalation causes a chort cut or bad connections. And is it so difficult to do a propper job? That way the installation is ok and you can take pride in your work. it takes a bit longer, but you only have to do it once. The instalation for the spots on my Niva: Another thing: i bought myself a new tool to solder wires together. I will explaine and post pics later.
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spikes
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Post by spikes on May 8, 2012 19:13:36 GMT 2
Neat Jan! I would not pick up earth next to the brake fluid bottle... to easy to spill fluid onto the earthwires and help corrosion. But you being a youngster will not spill brake fluid Spikes
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Post by Charles on May 8, 2012 19:54:06 GMT 2
Now that I think about it. The v power socket as visible on the pic, does it go through a fuse? If so which one?
Charles
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Post by ronnie on May 8, 2012 19:58:17 GMT 2
Hi Spikes
Not a place I would take an earth wire from, but I don`t think brake fluid will cause corrosion, it will strip paint though. Apart from that a very neat safe installation. That is the way it should be done.
Ronnie
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Hercules
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Post by Hercules on May 8, 2012 20:26:54 GMT 2
Hi Charles.
The inspection lamp socket is a Hella heavy duty socket and it does go through a fuse. It is fuse no. 10 on the main fuse box. It also feed the horn, interior lights and tail lights. It is a 16 amp fuse.
Regards.
Hercules
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Post by Charles on May 8, 2012 21:42:30 GMT 2
Thanks Hercules. I have lots of those sockets. I will just make sure mine is wired to go through the fuse as last year when I had a electrical fine it was caused by the cigarette lighter that was wired to bypass the fuse.
Charles
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on May 8, 2012 21:54:52 GMT 2
How the hell did you get an electrical fine?
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