spencer
Full Niva Petrol Head
"In Soviet Russia, Niva drives you"
Posts: 208
Location: Gauteng
Town: Krugersdorp
Registered: Dec 30, 2010 18:10:53 GMT 2
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Post by spencer on Apr 17, 2011 9:49:39 GMT 2
Hi Guys. I was away for the week and when I came back yesterday, the instrument cluster has gone dead. She starts, and the check engine light functions, but no speedo, rev counter or any cluster lights. Any ideas? No blown fuses. Cant see any disconnected plugs either. Spencer
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Post by marius on Apr 17, 2011 9:58:52 GMT 2
Hi Spencer
Electronics is not my strong point at all but I would think that something might have disconnected somewhere?
OR perhaps Fuse no8?
Marius
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spencer
Full Niva Petrol Head
"In Soviet Russia, Niva drives you"
Posts: 208
Location: Gauteng
Town: Krugersdorp
Registered: Dec 30, 2010 18:10:53 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
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Post by spencer on Apr 17, 2011 10:02:46 GMT 2
Hi Marius.
Thanx for the quick response. I just rechecked fuse no.8, and yes, the sneaky bugger had blown it self in a very discreet manner.
The cluster is lit up brightly again, unlike my redwine battered cerebellum....
Spencer
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Post by marius on Apr 17, 2011 10:22:23 GMT 2
;D
Red wine and this weather is a marriage made in heaven but the sweet angel song tends to get slightly irritating the next morning ;D
Marius
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Post by Charles on Apr 17, 2011 12:18:31 GMT 2
Glad you got it sorted easily. My cluster lights are all dead. That is something I still have to look at. Any ideas?
Charles
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Apr 17, 2011 12:36:25 GMT 2
Its normally the fuse. Does your rev counter work?
Ari
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Post by ronnie on Apr 17, 2011 14:44:36 GMT 2
Hi Charles
I assume you mean the instrumentation lights. Check fuse no 8, if not this you will need to check at the back of the instruments. Another thing to check is the dimmer control,
Ronnie
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Post by Charles on Apr 17, 2011 15:53:57 GMT 2
Thanks Ari and Ronnie
It was the dimmer controle.
Charles
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Post by ronnie on Apr 17, 2011 16:01:03 GMT 2
Hi Charles
You do not say what was wrong with the dimmer control. Was It unpluged at the small connector or (dare I say it) you forgot to turn it up ? ;D
Ronnie
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Post by Charles on Apr 17, 2011 16:04:35 GMT 2
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Post by ronnie on Apr 17, 2011 16:16:42 GMT 2
Hi Charles
I know how you feel as I spent about 10 minutes some time ago trying to get mine to work. Like you I will not tell you what was wrong ;D
Ronnie
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butasteve
Senior Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 366
Location: Western Cape
Town: Paarl
Registered: Jan 22, 2011 12:02:42 GMT 2
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Post by butasteve on Apr 17, 2011 18:40:40 GMT 2
Gentlemen Is there also a quick fix for the Interior Lights. Bulbs replaced, Fuses checked. Would be nice to have the lights. Hella Round Spots is fitted, but does not work. I thought about replacing at a later stage... Regards Stephen
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Apr 17, 2011 18:49:12 GMT 2
Check the door switches Stephen or what Idid is disconnect the door switches and if I want them on I just use the switch.
Ari
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Post by ronnie on Apr 17, 2011 19:07:03 GMT 2
Hi Steve
Remove one of the door switches and short the wire on the back to earth and tell me if the lights work
Ronnie
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Dewald
Junior Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 74
Registered: Feb 22, 2011 8:13:26 GMT 2
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Post by Dewald on Apr 29, 2011 7:24:54 GMT 2
Hi Guys
I have the same problem that started about 2 weeks ago, the instrument cluster is working all the lights are working the speedo is working, but the ref counter and petrol/temp gages are working for 5 min and then is off and on again, but when its off the indicators and wipers is also off
Any ideas?
Thanks Dewald
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Post by marius on Apr 29, 2011 7:51:02 GMT 2
Hi Dewald My above reply with regard to the fuse or maybe a bad connection somewhere is about the best I can do ;D BUT I am sure someone will sort you very soon Marius
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Post by ronnie on Apr 29, 2011 8:57:23 GMT 2
Hi Dewald
Check for blown no 2 fuse, or bad connections at the fuse holder. This is the 2nd fuse from the left on the main fuse holder. the fuses have push on connectors at the back, but unless the holder has been worked on the connections should be OK. If you need to remove the fuse holders from the mounting brackets DISCONNECT the battery.
Ronnie
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spencer
Full Niva Petrol Head
"In Soviet Russia, Niva drives you"
Posts: 208
Location: Gauteng
Town: Krugersdorp
Registered: Dec 30, 2010 18:10:53 GMT 2
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Post by spencer on May 9, 2011 19:15:28 GMT 2
Hi Guys. On our recent trip, we lost the indicators. The lada has a 4-point relay, which I could not find at Midas or Autozone. Here is the correct wiring discription. I did toast the indicator switch to figure it out, so you dont have to The brown live goes to point "x", the blue/white stripe goes to point "P" and the blue/red stripe goes to point "L". The black earth does not need to be connected in this configuration. Regards Spencer
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Post by ronnie on May 9, 2011 20:45:40 GMT 2
Hi Spencer
Thanks for the indicator info. I have a spare flasher unit as I found one down behind the side panel and it actually works.
Ronnie
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Post by ronnie on May 9, 2011 21:26:41 GMT 2
Hi Spencer
Does your indicator switch still work?. Mine does not self cancel and it annoys the living daylights out of me. I think a new one will be very expensive, unless Ventz has 20 or 30 in his very old cheap stock ;D ;D
Ronnie
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Post by Charles on May 9, 2011 21:32:26 GMT 2
Spencer I could have givin you the wiring. Gave it a while ago to Ari. Mine allready has a aftermarket relay fitted.
Charles
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spencer
Full Niva Petrol Head
"In Soviet Russia, Niva drives you"
Posts: 208
Location: Gauteng
Town: Krugersdorp
Registered: Dec 30, 2010 18:10:53 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
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Post by spencer on May 10, 2011 19:19:50 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie.
No, the indicator does not function any more. It cancels, but does not make contact anymore. I will have to order a new one, currently using a two way toggle switch fitted next to the dimmer.
Thanx Charles, Ari had actually given me your number, but you did not answer. I assumed you were bundu bashing with your lada somewhere at the edges of the known civilization. But thanx anyway, its good to know help is always at hand.
SPencer
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spikes
Moderator
Posts: 3,689
Location: Mpumalanga
Town: Nelspruit
Registered: Apr 19, 2010 19:39:51 GMT 2
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Post by spikes on May 23, 2011 10:02:43 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie Yes my voltage meter measures battery voltage. With ign on but engine not running it reads just between 12 and 14v, just after starting it reads 12v and goes back to a steady 14v very shortly afterwards. Switching on auxiliaries like lights shows a drop in volts but very small and Vmeter does not drop below 12v. But when the blower is switched on a serious drop is shown and the alternator cannot compensate. It sits at a steady 10v which worries me. The manual shows the motors power as 20w and power consumption as not >4.5amp So it does have a hefty drain Your views/input will be appreciated regards Spikes
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Post by ronnie on May 23, 2011 14:12:10 GMT 2
Hi Spikes
I am an electrician, not an auto electrician. To me it sounds as if there is a problem with the heater fan, but for it to pull enough current to drop the voltage that far I would have thought the fuse would have melted. There is something else not right. I have taken some readings on mine to give you some idea of what readings you should get.
Engine off 12.6 volt engine at idle 14.14 volt engine at idle heater fan on 14.14 volt engine at idle cooling fans on (16 amp) 14.01 volt engine at idle full beam plus spot lights 13.83 volt engine at idle all the above on 12.6 volt engine at 2000rpm all the above on 13.6 volt engine at idle after 20 seconds no load 14.2 volt
I think the only way to prove anything is to check what load the heater fan is drawing with a meter if you can get your hands on one. One other interesting thing is when I have "all the above"on at idle, the engine revs drop by 400rpm. Let me know what you find.
Ronnie
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Post by ronnie on May 23, 2011 14:35:04 GMT 2
Hi Spikes
I notice you say the voltage never drops below 12v when the engine is running. I would not expect to see it as low as 12 volt at any time with the engine at idle. Mike may comment on this. It may be worth while having the alternator checked. I do not see how the heater fan can draw enough power without melting the fuse to cause a voltage of 10volt. If you remove the HT lead from the coil and turn the motor over for 15 seconds or so what is the battery voltage during and after.
Ronnie
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Post by hotstuff on May 23, 2011 16:46:49 GMT 2
Hi Spikes I notice you say the voltage never drops below 12v when the engine is running. I would not expect to see it as low as 12 volt at any time with the engine at idle. Mike may comment on this. It may be worth while having the alternator checked. I do not see how the heater fan can draw enough power without melting the fuse to cause a voltage of 10volt. If you remove the HT lead from the coil and turn the motor over for 15 seconds or so what is the battery voltage during and after. Ronnie VOLTAGE SHOULD NOT DROP TO 10VOLTS, POSSIBLE PROBLEMS: A)voltage regulator B)brushes on alternator worn, or diode plate faulty. C)have your battery tested, dry cell or fluid mix incorrect. D)fan motor binding E)AVERAGE VOLTAGE SHOULD BE DEPENDING ON ALTERNATOR USED...AROUND 13.5V OR HIGHER. THERE COULD BE A FEW THINGS PULLING VOLTAGE SOMEWHERE, ALSO INCORRECT WIREING TO LIGHTS ETC. WILL CHAT MORE IN DETAIL LATER.........VERY LITTLE TIME TO MUCH WORK ON MY HANDS AT MO REGARDS MIKE
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spikes
Moderator
Posts: 3,689
Location: Mpumalanga
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Post by spikes on May 23, 2011 19:13:13 GMT 2
Thanks Ronnie and Mike! I really appreciate the trouble you have gone into to take all those readings Ronnie! My gut feel is that the alternator is not doing its part and the blower motor needs a good clean out. For the time being(well actually since I fitted the Volt meter) the blower stays disconnected. Thanks again Spikes
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Post by ronnie on May 23, 2011 19:22:24 GMT 2
Hi Spikes
I told you I have some spare time ;D
Ronnie
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spikes
Moderator
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Post by spikes on May 23, 2011 19:25:04 GMT 2
Yip! that you did. Thanks again
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Post by ronnie on May 24, 2011 19:13:34 GMT 2
Hi Spikes
After having time to think about your problem, I think Mike is correct in suspecting your alternator. As far as the fan goes,, if it starts and runs on the slow speed it is probably OK. If you find you need to switch to high speed first to get the fan to run on slow then there is a fan problem as well.
Ronnie
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