vincentc
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Apr 13, 2011 19:32:33 GMT 2
Post by vincentc on Apr 13, 2011 19:32:33 GMT 2
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vincentc
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Apr 13, 2011 19:42:37 GMT 2
Post by vincentc on Apr 13, 2011 19:42:37 GMT 2
So in summary Engine Oils should have the following viscosity and performance level
15W-40 API SL or SM The choice between mineral, semi synthetic or full synthetic is ultimately your choice. You pays your money and you takes your picks.
With the level of performance on the modern oils, you could, with carefull consideration increase the drain intervals to 20 000 km. You will how ever still need to replace the filter every 10k and top up oil as required. If you suspect fuel dilution, change the oil sooner.
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Oils
Apr 13, 2011 19:54:31 GMT 2
Post by Charles on Apr 13, 2011 19:54:31 GMT 2
I always use turbo diesel oil (15w40). Everyone please never use cheap oil! Some of the cheap oils gets made from recycled oil.
Charles
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vincentc
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Apr 13, 2011 20:09:55 GMT 2
Post by vincentc on Apr 13, 2011 20:09:55 GMT 2
Hi Charles, read the articles and ensure that the oil you use is also at least API SL.
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Oils
Apr 13, 2011 20:37:47 GMT 2
Post by Charles on Apr 13, 2011 20:37:47 GMT 2
I do. I used to use shell helix. Hard to get in town now. Using caltex now. Used dello 400. That stuff is fantastic but at R250 for 5L too expensive. Useing 9altex havoline now. Very happy with it. At work we use caltex tection global 15W40. Never liked castrol but have never had any problems with it. Also it never creates sludge. Even if it comes out of a car that hasn't been serviced for 90000 km. And yes that does happen.
Charles
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Oils
Apr 13, 2011 21:57:23 GMT 2
Post by ronnie on Apr 13, 2011 21:57:23 GMT 2
Hi Charles
Most good oils are about R250 for 5 liters. I use Magnatec in both petrol and diesel. The normal price is about R250 for 5 liters, though I have managed to buy it at R195 recently.
Ronnie
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Oils
Apr 13, 2011 22:04:07 GMT 2
Post by ronnie on Apr 13, 2011 22:04:07 GMT 2
Hi Charles
I have installed the electrical installation in an oil recycle factory and believe me there is a lot more to the process than filtering the old oil. Vincent can have his say on the matter but according to the industrial chemist the recycled oil was as good as the new oil.
Ronnie
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Oils
Apr 13, 2011 22:31:59 GMT 2
Post by Charles on Apr 13, 2011 22:31:59 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie
I know there is alot more invloved. For me the big thing is the smell of the oil. Cheap oil stinks. Good oil has a nice smell to it. I get all my oils at cost plus ten. So expensive oil for me is R200. Then it is oil that sells for alot more.
Charles
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vincentc
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Apr 16, 2011 18:42:09 GMT 2
Post by vincentc on Apr 16, 2011 18:42:09 GMT 2
Hi Charles The oil going into Ruski is over that per litre. ANYTHING to protect the lttle tyke.
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Oils
Apr 16, 2011 18:48:39 GMT 2
Post by Charles on Apr 16, 2011 18:48:39 GMT 2
I serviced a vw last week. The oil is R120 a liter. Madness!
Charles
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Oils
Apr 16, 2011 18:50:27 GMT 2
Post by Charles on Apr 16, 2011 18:50:27 GMT 2
What do you thinl of Shell Helix?
Charles
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vincentc
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Apr 16, 2011 19:16:51 GMT 2
Post by vincentc on Apr 16, 2011 19:16:51 GMT 2
Gear oils have the biggest potential to either save us money or Cause us heart break Gear oils are subjected to a number of tests to evaluate performance. The single most important test for Niva owners is the FZG Test. This test specifically evaluates the oils ability to reduce wear while under load. The test conditions are carefully controlled and are the best guide for evaluating how an oil will perform under loaded conditions. www.kleenoilpanolin.com/en/panolin/products/hydraulic-oils/hydraulic-specifications/This gives you an idea of the load conditions that oils are subjected to in this test
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vincentc
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Apr 16, 2011 20:10:49 GMT 2
Post by vincentc on Apr 16, 2011 20:10:49 GMT 2
What do you thinl of Shell Helix? Charles Most of the engine oils on the market today from the large international players are all good. Within a product like Helix or even GTX2 there are a number of different mono grade and multi grade viscosities. You will note my careful dancing around the question :-) seriously though, change filters and oil regularly and use the best quality oil you can afford. You cannot go wrong with that.
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vincentc
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Apr 16, 2011 20:49:59 GMT 2
Post by vincentc on Apr 16, 2011 20:49:59 GMT 2
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butasteve
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Apr 26, 2011 19:33:57 GMT 2
Post by butasteve on Apr 26, 2011 19:33:57 GMT 2
Dear All Good evening. I'm busy servicing my Lada. Please assist: what is the size of the spline used to unscrew the drain plugs on the Gearbox, Diff's, TC & sump. Our biggest is 12mm. Bought a new Sump Key - wasted money. Does not fit. Thanx a mill. Regards - Stephen
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spikes
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Apr 26, 2011 19:42:42 GMT 2
Post by spikes on Apr 26, 2011 19:42:42 GMT 2
Hi Stephen, All the literature that I have read states the size is 12mm. One of the gurus will come up with the right answer. My service is due in May (12mnths & about 8000km) regards Spikes
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vincentc
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Apr 26, 2011 19:57:03 GMT 2
Post by vincentc on Apr 26, 2011 19:57:03 GMT 2
Hi it should be a 12mm. I just did mine recently and borred Ronnies allen key. If it is not, chances are it may be stripped.
Regards vincent
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Oils
Apr 26, 2011 20:24:13 GMT 2
Post by marius on Apr 26, 2011 20:24:13 GMT 2
Hi Stephen
Yes it is a 12.
Reminds me of the very first time I had to undo those. They were so tight that I actually took the car to a shop in town with a lift to get enough leverage to undo the plugs on the TC and even then it was a huge struggle.
Be careful not to strip it.
Ironically the drain plug on the gearbox nearly fell out on the way home when we bought it!
Marius
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Oils
Apr 26, 2011 20:50:31 GMT 2
Post by hotstuff on Apr 26, 2011 20:50:31 GMT 2
Hi Stephen Yes it is a 12. Reminds me of the very first time I had to undo those. They were so tight that I actually took the car to a shop in town with a lift to get enough leverage to undo the plug on the TC and even then it was a huge struggle. Be careful not to strip it. Marius you can get a small socket set with the right size in it at Midas, well worth it I use it all the time. will try and find out price etc if i get a chance regards mike
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Oils
Apr 26, 2011 20:56:27 GMT 2
Post by marius on Apr 26, 2011 20:56:27 GMT 2
Hi Mike - I use exactly that set of sockets for the plugs!
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vincentc
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Apr 27, 2011 7:45:12 GMT 2
Post by vincentc on Apr 27, 2011 7:45:12 GMT 2
Hi Stephen Read the post and ensure that the oil you jave going in is the best you can afford. PM me your oils that you are wanting to use and I will assist you with evaluating them. Regardfs Vincent
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butasteve
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Apr 27, 2011 17:12:23 GMT 2
Post by butasteve on Apr 27, 2011 17:12:23 GMT 2
Dear All, The 12mm Allen Key did the job. Thought it was a splined bolt. Changed the oil in TC, Diffs & Engine. Filled steering box. Could not do the GB - cannot reach the filler hole. I would appreciate if somebody can givoe a detailed explanation how it's done. Does anybody maybe have a spreadsheet with the service intervals of the different components, or should I just replace the plugs, oils & filters every 10 000 km? I still need to set the timing - timing light broken. Found that the choke does not open completely, hence the high revs or should I have said close? Did it by hand, now revs is below 1000 RPM. Spots & interior lights needs to sorted. Regards Stephen
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Oils
Apr 27, 2011 17:39:44 GMT 2
Post by marius on Apr 27, 2011 17:39:44 GMT 2
Hi Stephen You should be able to reach the filler hole quite easily. It's on the left hand side of the gearbox near the prop shaft. Use a 17 ring spanner up between the prop shaft and the gearbox. Replace the filters every 10 000kms. If you don't drive on dirt roads your air filter can last for 20 000kms though. You don't necessarily have to replace the plugs every time - but you will have to at least check their condition and give them a bit of a clean. Recheck if the gaps are still ok. If you can afford it - new plugs and filters every time Marius
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vincentc
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Apr 27, 2011 18:01:59 GMT 2
Post by vincentc on Apr 27, 2011 18:01:59 GMT 2
Just a note to all Lada owners - Avoid using engine flush or similar stuff when you service. If you recently acquired your Lada, Rather change your engine oil and filter and then change them again at 2000 km. This quick change will allow the detregents in the oil to wash the engine out and hold the dirt in suspension so that it can be drained with the oil.
Engine Flushes tend to remain in the engine and have a negative effect on engine oil chemistry.
Regards Vincent
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Oils
Apr 27, 2011 18:32:18 GMT 2
Post by Charles on Apr 27, 2011 18:32:18 GMT 2
Thanks for the tip Vincent.
Charles
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butasteve
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Apr 27, 2011 19:15:24 GMT 2
Post by butasteve on Apr 27, 2011 19:15:24 GMT 2
Marius, thank you. The problem is to get the spout into the filler hole. Will try again tomorrow after work. I'm getting here. Reached 100 km/h easily. Revs a bit high though - 4000/Rpm. I really that 5th gear. Any sponsorships out there? Regards Stephen
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Oils
Apr 27, 2011 20:07:30 GMT 2
Post by marius on Apr 27, 2011 20:07:30 GMT 2
Hi Stephen
You can always use a longish fish tank pipe and pour the oil from the top through the engine bay.
The other method is to remove the gear leaver - remove only the three outer nuts to avoid a train smash!
Marius
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vincentc
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Apr 28, 2011 8:20:55 GMT 2
Post by vincentc on Apr 28, 2011 8:20:55 GMT 2
The other option is an "oil gun". It looks similar to a grease gun but will suck the oil up and then force it out again. Seeing it at Ronnie reminded me that I battled like a fool. I only need look in our product catalogues I will post a pic seperately Regards Vincent
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vincentc
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Apr 28, 2011 8:27:03 GMT 2
Post by vincentc on Apr 28, 2011 8:27:03 GMT 2
It is item 0904963 and can be obtained from all BMG branches and should cost about R340 excl VAT. Regards Vincent Attachments:
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Oils
Apr 28, 2011 9:23:17 GMT 2
Post by ronnie on Apr 28, 2011 9:23:17 GMT 2
Hi Vincent I posted the information some time ago of the one I have. It is from Saftec in Kempton Park. It looks the same as yours but is a fraction of the price. I am also sure some of the good spares shops will keep a similar product. I am not on my own Lap top so I can`t post a picture.
Ronnie
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