spikes
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Post by spikes on Feb 28, 2012 18:21:10 GMT 2
Marius
The original small mirrors (bottom set above) gives you the best adjustment range available in mirrors. Ball at the top the swivel on and around thru probably 320 degrees. Ditto at the bottom.
I habitually turn the L-hand mirror vertical when I am alone on a difficult section of Forestry roads and have to reverse. That way I can see the road behind and the left back wheel.
I like them as they are
Spikes
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Post by marius on Feb 28, 2012 19:46:47 GMT 2
Hi Spikes
I still have the originals and they are actually still in fairly good shape. It is only the one on the driver's side that has a piece of broken plastic at the back of the mirror that keeps it tight. However everything is still very tight on the mechanism of both the mirrors.
I am just having a peep at what might be available if I want to replace it in the future. Like you I find them pretty useful even though they are quite small.
Marius
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Post by Charles on Feb 28, 2012 19:59:59 GMT 2
Marius I do not think you would be able to find a mirror that does not need the drilling of new holes.
Spikes I also do that with my LHS mirror and it works a treat.
Charles
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Post by ronnie on Feb 28, 2012 20:30:16 GMT 2
Hi Ari
I think they were Jetta mirrors, but it is so long ago they may have been Golf. Perhaps the golf and the Jetta were the same.
Ronnie
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Post by Charles on Feb 29, 2012 6:26:49 GMT 2
Golf and jetta ones are the same. They are still fairly small in size. Only nice thing is the remote adjuster.
Charles
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Post by marius on Feb 29, 2012 10:08:21 GMT 2
Marius I do not think you would be able to find a mirror that does not need the drilling of new holes. If that is the case then I would just get a new pair of originals when the time comes. Marius
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Post by Charles on Feb 29, 2012 19:05:37 GMT 2
Marius no luck with mirrors that is a direct fit. Best bet would be Pavel.
Charles
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Post by marius on Mar 1, 2012 9:08:23 GMT 2
Hi Charles I will be knocking on Pavel's door when the time comes. Hopefully my prop shaft is on it's way by now Marius
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Post by marius on Mar 26, 2012 12:44:13 GMT 2
Got my prop shaft today 19 days after it left the Ukraine! I will give it a test drive tomorrow and hopefully it will make the difference I am looking for. @ Danie >> EDIT I thought the end cap was different but closer inspection revealed that the are the same and slides into the hole on the CV. Marius
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Mar 26, 2012 13:04:51 GMT 2
Enjoy!!
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Post by Charles on Mar 26, 2012 13:23:34 GMT 2
Pics, I can not see the pics.
Charles
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Post by marius on Mar 26, 2012 15:36:18 GMT 2
Ok Charles this is just for you... Marius Attachments:
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Post by marius on Mar 26, 2012 15:39:19 GMT 2
...and here it is ready for it's first test (tomorrow) Now I must just solve my nagging suspension noise - just can't get rid of it Marius Attachments:
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darryn
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Post by darryn on Mar 26, 2012 18:20:10 GMT 2
AW YIS!!!! FLIPPEN AWESOME!!!!
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Mar 26, 2012 18:28:32 GMT 2
It is impressive to say the least. Have you replaced the Link bushes in the rear suspension? And the handbrake cable pivot looks as if it can make a drumming noise
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Post by marius on Mar 26, 2012 19:51:36 GMT 2
Hi Spikes
Although noise can be deceptive - the noise that I hear seems to be coming from the front and in particular from the left side. It is fine on normal roads for most of the time, but as soon as I get onto the dirt it becomes more apparent. It sounds like a very dry squeaky noise - might even have something to do with the coil spring?
"And the handbrake cable pivot looks as if it can make a drumming noise" Don't know exactly what you mean but it may well have something to do with the wining noise I seem to experience from time to time?
Can you elaborate on what the cable should look like?
Marius
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Post by marius on Mar 26, 2012 20:24:37 GMT 2
I forgot to mention that the shaft came in a big bag and was wrapped in a year's supply of bubble wrap! I have a hunch that customs suspected an RPG-7 or something to that effect. The tax bill was R30! A repair kit that includes the CV boot, the boot cover, the end cap and two cable ties were supplied. Thanks Pavel for great service and support Marius
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Post by marius on Mar 26, 2012 20:35:11 GMT 2
Sorry me again Spikes!
I have just realized that I never engage the handbrake when stationary in the garage - maybe that explains something to you?
Marius
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Mar 27, 2012 14:37:12 GMT 2
Hi Marius,
I am pretty sure there should be some cover on that linkage of the handbrake cable. I cannot recall mine looking like that.
I'll check the spares manual later today when I am home
Regards
Spikes
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Post by Charles on Mar 27, 2012 16:06:24 GMT 2
Mine is also like that.
Charles
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Mar 27, 2012 17:33:35 GMT 2
I will check my NIVA 2morrow but this "dop" should be on Attachments:
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Post by marius on Mar 27, 2012 17:39:14 GMT 2
Hi Spikes
That cover is inside the car if I'm not mistaken?
Marius
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Mar 27, 2012 17:53:51 GMT 2
Sorry!! This onew is outside Attachments:
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Post by marius on Mar 27, 2012 18:00:29 GMT 2
As promised I took the CV prop shaft for a test drive today covering about 150kms. The good news is that it makes a BIG difference when it comes to acceleration and deceleration. The car accelerates very smoothly and the real nice thing is that I don't get any deceleration noise. This deceleration noise was with our car from the beginning and the amount of noise was dependent on the amount of grease in the UJoints on the prop shaft. Our Niva has never suffered from severe vibrations and any vibration that we had between 100-110 km/h was quite exceptable. The CV prop shaft does make a significant difference but there is still some faint vibration at exactly 105km/h and before you get to 110km/h it is all gone. The vibration is a bit more apparent when you hit an uphill when the Lada starts to loose a bit of steam. The car runs very smoothly at 120km/h The not so good news is that we lost some serious grease through both boots on the CV. I did check the shaft when we got to Potch and everything seemed OK. I suspect this is from too much grease that overheated. Hopefully this did not cause any damage to the CV's. I will check everything tomorrow and remove quite a bit of the grease as I thought it was a bit too much from the start? Marius
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Post by marius on Mar 27, 2012 18:04:15 GMT 2
Never seen that one Spikes? Funny thing is that the two illustrations only shows only one or the other??
Marius
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Post by marius on Mar 27, 2012 18:29:20 GMT 2
I forgot to mention that the wining sound I have been complaining about has now disappeared but I do suspect that I should take a hard look at the rear bearing on the TC.
Marius
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Post by Charles on Mar 27, 2012 18:46:27 GMT 2
Good to hear that Marius. Too much grease in a cv will get tossed out when it gets hot. A cv actually needs very little grease.
Charles
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Post by marius on Mar 27, 2012 19:49:35 GMT 2
Thanks Charles. Before installation I had a look at the grease behind the end caps and the CV's were both heavily packed with what looks like the normal CV grease. My first thought was that it is too much grease, but I left it as is. Hopefully the overheating did not cause any other issues on the CV's. Tomorrow I have the "pleasant" job of cleaning the underside Marius
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Post by marius on Mar 28, 2012 7:44:59 GMT 2
I am now thinking of installing a double layer of cork gasket between the flange and the CV to help with heat transfer/dissipation. A lot of the heat will be transferred through the studs though. Another thought is a very thin layer of grease on the flange and the CV to help keep moisture out. What do you guys think?
Marius
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Mar 28, 2012 8:04:55 GMT 2
Hi Marius
I'd first try the shaft with reduced grease. I do not think the heat transferred from T/C or diff would be sufficient to "liquefy" the CV grease to that extent were it would dribble out. Centrifugal force would however force excess grease out
Spikes
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