The video clip clearly shows that the alignment on your Transfer Box is 100% correct.
When you connect the Prop-shafts and you are driving on the road, is your Transfer Box still 100% vibration free , or do you still see some vibrations ?
Another question - for what reason has the support been cut and modified ? Sorry, this might be a stupid question, but I do not understand.
I have done the same as Trevor, though I went about it in a slightly different way,but the end result was the same. I put a spacer behind the TC case input flange about 2mm thick. This was after struggling for a very long time with vibration. the problem was the slots on the TC mounting were fouling on the studs and this stopped the TC moving back far enough.
I assume that Dimitris cut and re welded the bracket as the studs were probably fouling against the mountings. This is the same problem that Trevor and I had. I must admit I did not check the gearbox mounting on mine. It would be well worth checking.
Danie When I am driving on the road at a constant speed and any gear, the tc still vibration free such as video.
Τo explain it better.... As I wrote, the tc vibrates just for some seconds only in the first and second gear when I press the accelerator pedal to the floor and the car accelerates very quickly. When I separated the front axle from the motor and started for first time, I was shocked because the motor was shaken more than before. But it was normal, because the motor and the gearbox are installed just only on the rubbers, and there was nothing else to hold them. For the same reason when I am driving on the road, and when I press and let the accelerator pedal, creates a move forward - back but not vibrations. I hope you understand what I mean.
......for what reason I cut the support and modified it?
Because I could not succeed the best alignment between gearbox and tc only by moving the tc, spacers etc, and so I moved and the gearbox. I cut the support and moved the back of the gearbox about 1 cm up and a few mm left or right,( I can not remember exactly) and when I had the best alignment then rewelded the support at the new position. I must say that for me the mod had no big risk, because if it was a failure I would buy another support new or used. (here there are all the spare parts).
When I will post photos of the modified support, you will understand better.
Thank you Trev and Ronnie - interesting reading and it's great that you both finally resolved your problems.
I had my vibrations fixed about 5 years ago, shortly after I bought Nikita, but although there was an improvement they weren't fixed properly. However, they aren't really a problem at the speed I tend to travel, which is seldom above 70kms, as it's mostly mountains and bends where I live, and I never travel on motorways. Having said this, I would like to get rid of them all together if possible and will tackle the problem when I've sorted out Nikita's more urgent problems.
Thank you for sharing your experience regarding fixing the vibrations on your Niva. It is much appreciated. You really opened my eyes because I never even thought about cutting and re-welding the mounting plate! You are a genius!
I noticed from your video that your Niva is real neat inside and well looked after. It must be a pleasure to have and drive such a nice vibration free Niva in the beautiful area where you live.
Just something else about Greece I am interested in: Are aftermarket electronic control modules freely available there and what do they cost +-? (See attached).
Regards,
Fanus
1995 1600 Red Niva - not so standard anymore.
Niva the Cruiser Bruiser I laugh at Leaking Landrovers Ford? Snort! Nissans-Ni sans rattles Hyundai - Hyena Laughter Porche Cayenne - Why? Chev Zeff Kia - Can not what!?
Niva the Cruiser Bruiser I laugh at Leaking Landrovers Ford? Snort! Nissans-Ni sans rattles Hyundai - Hyena Laughter Porche Cayenne - Why? Chev Zeff Kia - Can not what!?
Dear Fanus...Thanks for the compliment. "You are a genius!" (I searched the dictionary to understand what this means) ;D After cutting the support ..... I discovered the gravity!
About >>>aftermarket electronic control modules I know that here make such modifications, but I don't know nothing more.
I was just interested to know if modifying standard engines is such a big hit in Greece as it is here in SA.
Just for interest sake: there are already some of the ECU's (as per earlier attachment) where the seller will log on to your laptop from overseas while your car is on the Dyno and tune it for you! How cool is that!
In South Africa it is already the case that you can buy the different brands of aftermarket ECU's for a specific model of car, plug it in, update the software with your own laptop computer yourself and drive the car to the Dyno and have it fine-tuned. No big deal. The knowledge base is there, and in Greece should be a big business (I think).
Again, just interested, no need to reply on this e-mail.
Regards,
Fanus
1995 1600 Red Niva - not so standard anymore.
Niva the Cruiser Bruiser I laugh at Leaking Landrovers Ford? Snort! Nissans-Ni sans rattles Hyundai - Hyena Laughter Porche Cayenne - Why? Chev Zeff Kia - Can not what!?
There's room there to get the nozzle of a welder in and give it a couple of blasts to secure it. Personally, when they get that bad, I just chisel them off. Never had any problems after doing that either! Regards, John
This modification from the French NIVA site is quite interesting and offers a new slant on ways to eliminate vibration It is about half-way down the page of easy mods nivaventure.free.fr/Texte/Divers/Astuces/Astuces.htm
Any volunteers??
Spikes
2000 1.7i NIVA
BONGOL
Summer time I can use low range AND T/C lock
I now have a fairly harsh vibration at exactly 100km/h but it disappears very quickly at 105km/h. I did some work on the TC recently so I'll have a look this morning. My rear prop shaft also probably needs some grease again.
Every now and then I pick up a whining sound which could be a CV or a wheel bearing? Maybe even the tyres?
Marius
Lada Niva 1.7 M½ 2000 model with Solex Carb - nonTurbo
Driving the car that is built for Siberia NOT Suburbia
Tyres will only change their (audible) "tune" when a tar road surface changes. As the sound comes and goes it could be several things. CV joint with a rough ball Dirt on brake discs or in drums Diff pinion bearing on its way out Rear wheel bearing
Spikes
2000 1.7i NIVA
BONGOL
Summer time I can use low range AND T/C lock
From an earlier response by Charles it may now well be the brakes (I hope!). I still need to have a look at my front brakes and do an inspection of the hub and front wheel bearings.
My rear wheel bearing could also be the problem. Hopefully my diff is still ok.
With the rough CV ball - apart from a whining noise - should you not get a knocking sound in a corner?
Marius
Lada Niva 1.7 M½ 2000 model with Solex Carb - nonTurbo
Driving the car that is built for Siberia NOT Suburbia
Marius if you hear the whining sound. Drive side to side, just like a drunk person. Then as you put weight on the one side and lift the other side the noise should change if it is a wheel bearing.
Hi Dimitris ,Thank you for your Comment mate but i know of two nivas over here that are running vibe free and i think i did read on your forum over there that some one just bolted there transfer case in and it was vibe free .Im not sure but i think it may have been Charles But i may have the wrong member as its been a while ago now since i seen it but its still on here some where .There are pics and info about the way i solved my vibes on the Aussie Forum under Show us your Lada section .Cheers Trev .
Dear Trevor, I've read all the posts here and many more in other forums, and I have seen your videos. You noticed the problem, you thought about it, you did a mod and solved it. Was all those easy and simple? I dont think so!!! Ronnie wrote...." if everything is set up properly the Niva should be virtually vibration free"!!!! Yes but how is it possible? The only easy solution is to move the tc a little bit, but as you know most times that is not enough..... I dont like that frame under the tc too. Congrats for your conversion and thanks for showing it to all of us.
In my opinion those videos from Ahma - Sweden, show the main cause of vibrations. Perhaps you know them.
What I've done…… When I bought this niva 1600 I had the experience from the previous two.
1. I tried to move the tc and thus reduce vibrations, but it was not enough. . I destroyed two rubber housings (I made bigger holes to move the tc more, it was a stupid idea ;D ;D)
2. I replaced the flange because it was wrong – bent. (Here we have the opinion that 5-10%?? of nivas have the problem from the factory).
3. I placed a cv... (NIVA 1600 had not),and I fit a grease nipple on the side, so I can put grease easy when it needs to be greased.
4. No frame etc….just a very cheap mod.I modified the support. I cut the support in three pieces , I adjusted the gearbox and the tc to the correct position and then I stuck the support again.
That’s all!!!! ;D
During the driving the tc vibrates just for some seconds only in the first and second gear when I press the accelerator pedal to the floor and the car accelerates very quickly. I finished the modifications ten years ago and I had not had any problems so far at the seals, on bearings, or gears and I had no oil leak..... etc After the susp. lift a vibration generated after the 70-80km\h, so needed to adjust front and rear axles.
Take a look at video.
The next few days I will post some pics.
Regards, Dimitris
Last Edit: Mar 12, 2012 18:20:44 GMT 2 by dimitris
Post by Hanno Oostenbrink on Apr 14, 2012 7:49:58 GMT 2
Hi guys, I started to notice my lada vibrating and shaking about (a lot more than normally) between 85 and 100km/h. It is getting worse and my friends all notice it quickly soit is not just me being sensitive.
It seems to be independent of the gear I am in. (therefore problem not rev related but speed related) Is it therefore transfer box lock or driveshaft?
Post by Hanno Oostenbrink on Apr 15, 2012 9:12:32 GMT 2
There seem to be numerous solutions in that thread I saw someone mentioning a the TC lever jumping around but not explaining what that means
My TC lever is jumping around wildly The vibrations stops if I take my foot of the accelerator (while still being in the speed range where it vibrates)
So it is probably to do with the TC bolts/bearing?
If the levers are moving up and down your CV on the intermediate shaft is not aligned properly with the flange on the TC. The CV should run as smooth as possible to get rid of the moving sticks. You do that by sliding the TC forward or backwards in its slots until the CV runs straight and smooth.
Marius
Lada Niva 1.7 M½ 2000 model with Solex Carb - nonTurbo
Driving the car that is built for Siberia NOT Suburbia
There seem to be numerous solutions in that thread I saw someone mentioning a the TC lever jumping around but not explaining what that means
Hi Hanno
To my mind it means it means that one of the components in the drive train needs serious attention.
A good starting point would be to :
1. Determine whether the Nuts at the Transfer Box mounting rubbers are still tight.
2. If the Nuts are still tight, a good starting point will be to remove the Transfer Box - but to do that, you will have to disconnect the Rubber Coupling (Doughnut), as well as the rear Propshaft. Before you loosen the Bolts at the Doughnut, you need to clamp it down with a 6 inch Hose Clamp - otherwise it will get damaged when you try to remove it. Only when the Transfer Box has been removed, you will be able to have a proper look at the condition of the mounting Rubbers.
3. If the mounting Rubbers are still in good condition, you will have to have a close look at the condition of the Rubber Coupling (Doughnut).
Take note - there are no "shortcuts" you will have to have a close look at each component - otherwise you will not be able to solve the problem.
Should all above mentioned components still be OK, please let us know.
Danie
Last Edit: Apr 15, 2012 18:19:51 GMT 2 by danie
Shoutbox
Please do not use the Shoutbox for questions.They may get missed. Please go to the correct thread and post there.
dudley: I have a Lada tow-bar (the whole frame including the hook and electronic plug with wires) up for grabs to whomever wants it. my email dudley@eqaviation.co.za, give me a shout... I'm in PTA.
Aug 5, 2016 11:50:46 GMT 2
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davet: recently my front brakes locked up Before I bled off pressure I attempted to move the vehicle-first forward and then backwards.Immediately after this while driving the vehicle jumped out of 4th gear and has continued to do so.What is the the cause of this
Dec 6, 2015 16:15:32 GMT 2
braveheart1: Hi there. I am urgently looking for a second hand crankshaft nut for my 1.7 Lada. Can anyone please help??
Apr 21, 2015 14:39:46 GMT 2
victor: How do i post an ad?
Feb 2, 2015 17:17:26 GMT 2
Shaune: hi all I have a spare rim (need new paint) and tyre, plus a aircon unit that I have taken out of my lada, im looking to sell them...any offers.in box me or email me if interested...need to get rid of them
Jan 22, 2015 8:16:33 GMT 2
Ihar: So sad, R.I.P. hoodoo, you will be dearly missed....:
Jan 11, 2015 14:25:12 GMT 2
Pizzo: Hi guys!I had a very nice reading about the cooling sistem and what temperature should our nivas run etc etc....a good couple of hours... I had a bad experience with 2 engines...both experienced broken piston rings. I assumed that it was
May 15, 2014 17:27:05 GMT 2
Hanno Oostenbrink: (shouting it here because for some reason I cant create a new thread anymore)
Mar 28, 2014 7:07:35 GMT 2
Hanno Oostenbrink: Guys, my written off lada is going on auction by SMD in Boksburg next week wednesday. Phone 010 4922911 if you are interested. It was hit by a cow but has minimal damage (front bodywork needs work and radiator is bent - besides for that, the old is fine)
Mar 28, 2014 7:06:58 GMT 2
christiaan: Received a parcel from Pavel yesterday. Took four weeks. Hope my Lada's gearbox will be fine with the new spares. Sure miss driving the Lada.
Mar 7, 2014 7:40:48 GMT 2
dgc: There, pictures fixed. Sorry it took so long...
Mar 3, 2014 16:23:34 GMT 2