90ladaniva
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Post by 90ladaniva on Oct 5, 2011 1:45:32 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie ,After reading your last post im not quite sure what you meant by removing the nut and washer and checking that the studs are clearing the sides .Maybe you could run that bit past me again and i will see if i can get what you mean just in case im missing some thing here .Well after about 200 Kilometres all is still vibration free so i guess thats it and it passed the test .Now time to move on to the next Modification i think . Cheers Trev .
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Post by danie on Oct 5, 2011 6:07:21 GMT 2
Well after about 200 Kilometres all is still vibration free so i guess thats it and it passed the test . Cheers Trev . Well done Trev ! Danie
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Post by ronnie on Oct 5, 2011 9:15:29 GMT 2
Hi Trevor
If you have no vibration it is not necessary to do anything else. If some vibration still exists you could remove one of the T/C mounting to body nuts and washers to make sure there is clearance between the studs and the mounting slot, as it is not possible to see when the nuts and washers are in place. Removing one at a time will not alter the position of the mounting. Hope this makes sense.
Ronnie
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90ladaniva
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Post by 90ladaniva on Oct 5, 2011 13:54:44 GMT 2
No Ronnie ,I cant honestly make any sense out of it But i guess it doesnt matter as like i said the little lada is totally vibration free now but i will however put those spacer rings in when they become available as it was indeed a part of the master plan Buddy .Cheers Trev
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Post by ronnie on Oct 5, 2011 14:54:27 GMT 2
Hi Trevor
It must be my Scottish accent causing the confusion. ;D. What I was trying to say is sometimes it is not apparent the mountings are against the stud, and simply taking one nut off will allow you to see clearly without disturbing the position of the mounting. If this does not explain it I think I will make my next holiday in Australia. Actually I would love to holiday there.
Ronnie
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90ladaniva
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Post by 90ladaniva on Oct 5, 2011 15:23:49 GMT 2
Ok Ronnie i finaly get the picture mate .I thought you meant to check the studs were not tight against the side of the slide not the ends and i thought how could that possibly be as i mentioned on page 10 that i driilled the ends of the slides to make them move further forward and marked the erea in white mate .Sorry about the confusion but a simple misunderstanding of what each other meant realy but it dont matter mate cause its all good man .Cheers Trev
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90ladaniva
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Post by 90ladaniva on Oct 22, 2011 16:34:52 GMT 2
Hi guys ,Things are a bit quiet in this section lately so i assume that all your vibration probs are sorted or i hope they are .Cheers Trev.
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Post by ronnie on Oct 23, 2011 8:37:31 GMT 2
Hi Trev No news is GOOD news Ronnie
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Post by danie on Oct 23, 2011 19:19:32 GMT 2
I had to order a lay shaft nut for my spare gearbox, so I decided to order a new center rubber, the bigger rubber which fits on the nut, as well as the spring which press against the nut / rubber according to the spare part list: (The Nut at the bottom (right) came from my Lada's original Gearbox.) As far as I remember it has been mentioned at the Forum that the rubber which fits to the Nut has not been fitted to newer models - I wonder why ? The bigger rubber is quite firm - and it seems that this rubber could definitely help to support the rubber at the center of the Flange - and maybe help to prevent vibrations. It would also be interesting to know whether the bigger rubber with spring still get used in other countries. Danie
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hoodoo
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Post by hoodoo on Oct 23, 2011 19:46:22 GMT 2
My Niva ('03) uses the bigger rubber washer and a cup shaped one that fits over the nose of the g'box output shaft. They replace the metal items and spring that were used in early models. My vibration comes in at 70 mph for about 5mph, and I'm certain it's because I didn't have a cup shaped one to replace the old one when I last pulled the T/box. This stems back to a similar vibration I had in a Mk 3 Cortina years ago. Same speed, and traced to the centre bearing in the split prop. Same arrangement of washers. New ones sorted that! If properly aligned, the doughnut will do an excellent job of controlling things until you get to about 70 mph, after which it starts to lose it! In the meantime, I either drive at below 70 mph, or drive through it to 75 mph! One thought, if planning to use rubber washers in place of the steel ones, thoroughly check dimensions, wear etc. I'm not convinced they're always as straightforward a fit as one would expect! Regards, John.
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Post by danie on Oct 23, 2011 21:14:06 GMT 2
Hi John
I think the cup shaped rubber washer which you are referring to is the rubber "Centering Ring" according to the Part List -( part no 21213 - 1701247) - which can be seen between the Flange and Bolt with the big rubber ring at the pic above.
I have imported the complete kit (Nut, Spring, Centering Ring (Cup), and big Rubber Ring (called "seal" at the part list) for $15.00 .
I assume the "Centering Ring" (cup shaped washer) should be available without the rest of the kit as well.
Regards
Danie
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hoodoo
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Post by hoodoo on Oct 24, 2011 20:31:58 GMT 2
Hi John I assume the "Centering Ring" (cup shaped washer) should be available without the rest of the kit as well. Regards Danie Is that what they call it? ;D Yes, I've got one in the glovebox, but,at the moment, can't summon the enthusiasm to fit it! It's running ok without it, so it can wait until I next remove the T/box. Regards, John
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Post by danie on Oct 25, 2011 5:59:49 GMT 2
Hi John
Yes, by times the part descriptions at the Part Catalog are a bit confusing.
Part no 18 (page 227 of 584) - the rubber so called "Centering Ring" is to my mind not a "ring" - because it has a closed bottom.
Part no 19 (same page) - the so called "Seal" is also not a "seal" to my mind - because no seal is needed in this application. I actually think this part (part no 19 and not part no 18) should have been named "Centering Ring" - because that is exactly what it is - a centering ring.
Anyway, interesting to know that your '03 model still uses the bigger washer ( so called "seal" - part 19 at the list) . According to a previous comment here at the Forum, somebody has mentioned that the Russians has decided not to use this part any longer - I still can't understand why they would have made such a decision.
To be honest - I have a strong feeling that somebody locally saw the word "Seal" in the part list, realized that no "seal" is needed in this application - and then decided that this part is not needed at all.........not realizing that this part is not a seal, it's a Centering Ring which helps to prevent vibrations !
Regards
Danie
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Post by marius on Oct 25, 2011 8:05:44 GMT 2
The only parts that the Russians "discontinued" behind the nut is the metal centering ring, the spring and the circlip - the rubber seal is still very much part of it all.
Marius
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90ladaniva
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Post by 90ladaniva on Oct 25, 2011 11:33:57 GMT 2
Well guys my niva still has the metal centering ring ,and spring ,rubber seal and circlip and still works a total treat .Still no vibrations after 1700Kilometres since we modified a few things with the mounts .This car is a real pleasure to drive now and our Pajero has not been driven for the last 6 months as we just always seem to use the Lada for everything now .Its Truly great ,and we love it .Cheers Trev .
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Post by danie on Oct 25, 2011 20:07:03 GMT 2
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Oct 25, 2011 22:49:10 GMT 2
Hi Danie I just wonder how long the CV boot will last at the back diff, after some serious offroading?? Ari Attachments:
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Post by danie on Oct 26, 2011 5:11:06 GMT 2
Hi Ari
Good question - but I think more components on a Lada are also submitted to severe stress and possible failures during serious off road conditions as well.
I would not be too worried about the CV boot - local aftermarket boots should be available.......I think.
Danie
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bobbyd
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Post by bobbyd on Oct 26, 2011 12:45:42 GMT 2
Has anyone bought stuff from Ladapower?
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Post by jaco1978 on Oct 26, 2011 14:28:30 GMT 2
Bobby, a couple of us have been buying from Pavel (Ladapower.com). Mostly from when he only had his E-Bay store. Ladapower.com only opened in the last month or so (me thinks). I, for one, can recommend him for his service and I am very sure a couple of others here will second that. His prices speak for itself!
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Oct 26, 2011 15:57:21 GMT 2
Hi Bob If you need anything that you do not see on his website, drop him an email @barter2007@gmail.com. He is more than helpful Spikes
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Oct 26, 2011 17:06:18 GMT 2
Hi
I'm sure it will last, I'm just worried that the boot will tear easily. I think you may need a protection plate for the CV and diff.
Ari
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dimitris
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Post by dimitris on Oct 31, 2011 15:30:23 GMT 2
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darryn
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Post by darryn on Dec 14, 2011 19:40:33 GMT 2
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vincentc
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Post by vincentc on Dec 15, 2011 21:15:05 GMT 2
Hi Demitris
Do you think the CV Propshaft is a worthwhile upgrade?
Perhaps members on the greek forum can provide their opinions.
Regards Vincent
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Dec 17, 2011 19:22:59 GMT 2
i own one of these, but i will be installing it together with the TD engine and a new gear box. So this won't be any very soon yet
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Ladaniva
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Post by Ladaniva on Dec 18, 2011 21:45:01 GMT 2
Hi All,
I also like the sugestion to fit a proction plate or something around/in the area of the CV joint in this specific postion under a 4 x 4. One may even stick it on with epoxy or Q-Bond as long as you inspect it often on a demanding trip. Any modification is the responsibility of the owner to check frequantly. One should in any case check your vehicle frequantly when on a challeging route. Ground clearance is the most important charisteristic of a real 4 x 4 (doing real 4 x 4 offroad), than anything).
A CV boot must be properly fitted. I think Ventz clearly stated this fact on this forum. Cable ties are wonderful things but not designed for this demanding task. Secure a CV boot properly. Remember a 4 x 4 is a 4 x 4 for a good reason; to take it to the next level. Be prepared for that by doing the basics the best you can. A broken Niva in Africa is a nightmare.
Regards,
Fanus
Regards,
Fanus
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dimitris
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Post by dimitris on Dec 18, 2011 22:48:29 GMT 2
Hi Demitris Do you think the CV Propshaft is a worthwhile upgrade? Perhaps members on the greek forum can provide their opinions. Regards Vincent Hi all! Vincent last years some niva owners have installed the cv propshafts and the tc stabilizer... They wrote in the greek forum that it had good results. But I do not know if after 20 or 30000 km they are still satisfied or have some problems. I think that the problem of vibrations can be solved at first with a very good adjustment gearbox \ tc.....and after the propshafts ...etc. Next days I will make a small video to see how my niva runs without vibrations........ (and if you send me some money because I am a poor Greek I will reveal my secrets!) ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D If you liked the tc stabilizer you can buy one and after you can make some copies!!!! (255 E...... too expensive!!!!)
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dimitris
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Post by dimitris on Dec 20, 2011 13:55:44 GMT 2
Yesterday I saw the prices in a russian site.....
cv propshafts pair.......14.500.00 руб= 345.200 EUR = 450.998 USD
tc stabilizer.................3 700.00 руб.= 88.0755 EUR = 115.085 USD
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Post by marius on Dec 20, 2011 15:49:51 GMT 2
I will be importing the rear shaft sometime early in the next year. If it makes the difference that I suspect I will be going for the front one too - depending on how much it is going to cost naturally.
Marius
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