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Post by danie on May 7, 2012 18:05:45 GMT 2
Hi Ruan
I have noticed that a 2nd fanbelt has been fitted to drive your power steering pump.
Do you think a 2nd belt is really needed, or will a single belt do the job ?
Danie
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Post by Charles on May 7, 2012 18:21:11 GMT 2
Danie the thing I like about having two belts is that you do not have to tension them nearly as tight.
Charles
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Roons
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Post by Roons on May 7, 2012 18:47:53 GMT 2
Hi danie. If u can get enough contact on the crank pully it wil work. I could not make a plan so i went for two belts. The extra belt gets in the way of the fan thats why the electric fans.
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Post by danie on May 7, 2012 18:56:05 GMT 2
Yea , I also thought that a single belt would not make enough contact with the pulleys, and that the belt might slip.......was actually hoping that somebody would tell me that a single belt is just fine . Thanks for the comments. Danie
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Post by ronnie on May 7, 2012 19:05:07 GMT 2
Hi Danie
The Air Con in mine was driven with a single belt and there was no problems with slippage. If you look at a picture you will see there are 2 belts, but the main belt drives the second belt.
Ronnie
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Post by Roons on May 7, 2012 19:07:16 GMT 2
Danie. Do u want a template of the mounting plate?
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Post by Roons on May 7, 2012 19:13:09 GMT 2
I also think if u can get 100+ deg it may work.
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Post by danie on May 7, 2012 19:25:03 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie
Thanks for your comments. Could you please supply a link to the pic which you are referring to ?
Many thanks
Ruan - it would be fantastic to get a template of the mounting plate ! That would definately help to save a lot of time - would be highly appreciated if you could help...
Just another (stupid) question - I assume that I do not have any choice other than to replace the mechanical fuel pump with an electric one ? If so, which type of electric fuel pump would be the best option ?
Many thanks
Danie
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Roons
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Post by Roons on May 7, 2012 19:37:11 GMT 2
I wil make it with thin metal plate and just copy the holes. I have a high pressure injection pump. I cant help u there.
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Post by danie on May 7, 2012 19:59:07 GMT 2
Hi Ruan
Thanks a mil - that will be just fine !
What would be the easiest way for you to send it down here ? Standard post ?
Please send me the cost details , as well as bank details by PM.
Many thanks.
Danie
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Roons
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Post by Roons on May 7, 2012 20:20:55 GMT 2
Standard post it wil not cost much just send me your postal details.
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Ladaniva
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Post by Ladaniva on May 7, 2012 22:07:07 GMT 2
Hi Marius,
I am not sure if things changed in the meantime, but I bought a brand new Cresida gearbox from a spares shop in Springs for R2000 or R3000.00 (in crate) +- four years ago. I fitted the box then to my 240 Diesel Mercedes and it worked fine and is still running perfectly (please, do not do this at home, please). If they sold them surely many other companies bring them in (most probably from China, but so is a standard Land Cruise gearbox). The name of the spares shop is Kotwals, if you want to inquire. They sell many different types of only new gearboxes. I personally do not think you need a Cresida gearbox with a Niva (overkill). I think I mentioned before that my father had a 1600 Toyota with an automatic gearbox with an overdrive as standard, which towed a huge trailer fully loaded for more than a million kilometers and more than 10 years, with no breakdown on the car (often on the trailer, however). My brother fitted a high output 1600 Toyota motor to a Suzuki 1100 or 1300 gearbox and towed a big caravan with his Suzuki for years, no problem. If a few basic problems are sorted out with a Niva five speed box I am sure it will even outlast or match a Cresida box (see this forum what the condition of the gears were when people opened the boxes). Knowledge is power, if you use it.
Roon,
Good to see you joined us (some fanatic) Niva owners and admirers!
Now that Russia will definitely stop manufacturing the Lada, modify may be the way to go for many Niva owners. I often mentioned on this forum that there is no practical need for wide tyres (and therefore power steering) on a Niva. The only reasons for fitting wider tyres and rims on Nivas are a lack of experience of the capability of Nivas (even in thick sand), shortage of tyres and obviously for the looks. I have no problem with either, as I had all three wrong in the beginning. Please note I am only sharing experience and can not care less what anybody else do with his Niva (no, no I just lied; what I will never get used to is somebody that chops a Niva, I just can not get my head around why one will do that to such a classic never to forget shape, unless of course you do not have the money to buy another vehicle).
Thank you for your patience to load the pictures and for screwing open our brains for what can be done to a Niva and still use it for what it was designed for; to be used every day and not break the bank.
I think your diesel mod with the VW motors (if mated to the correct gearbox) will be a sure hit, and many will follow. My suggestion (easy to suggest huh, but it is all it is) is incorporate an inter-cooler and air conditioner from the outset (for SA conditions). Lekker speel met jou Nivas!
Regards,
Fanus
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Post by ronnie on May 7, 2012 22:21:18 GMT 2
Hi Danie Here is a picture I still have on my lap top. This should give you the general idea. The belt closest to the fan drives the alternator. The main belt from the crank pulley drives the water pump and the A/C compressor. Ronnie Attachments:
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Post by Roons on May 7, 2012 22:44:44 GMT 2
Fanus i hear u about the gearbox any good jap box wil do. (If) i gan get a vw tdi into my niva and even better keep it 4x4 it would be great.
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Post by danie on May 8, 2012 6:17:05 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie
Thanks.
I assume the alternater pulley, ( or the alternater itself) has been moved slightly forward (towards the radiator) to get in line with the front belt groove at the Aircon pulley ?
If I remember correctly, there is no standard radiator fan on your (ex) Lada ? (I assume the standard fan will have to be removed to do a mod like yours ? )
Danie
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Roons
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Post by Roons on May 8, 2012 7:41:43 GMT 2
Is the fan in the top photo bolted to the radiator with bolts going through it? Danie ronnies setup looks like a better plan than mine.
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Post by ronnie on May 8, 2012 8:09:15 GMT 2
Hi Danie
The Alternator is spaced forward to suit the pulley. The mechanical fan was not fitted in the photo. The electric fan you see was an experiment which I did not like and was stripped out and the mechanical one reinstalled. I ran the vehicle with 3 fans fitted 2 electric in front and the mechanical one. I only had 2 electric fitted controlled with a thermo switch and they were more than adequate. When I fitted the A/C the company that gassed the system for me were not happy with 1 electric fan running with the compressor and wanted both electric ones to run. I did not like this so I gave them 1 electric and 1 mechanical and they were happy. The thermo switch controlled the 2nd electric fan if the A/C was running or both electric fans if the A/C was off. You need to fit electric fans to the outside if you want to retain the mechanical one. Remember to make sure that if you fit electric to the outside that they are fans designed to blow.
Ronnie
Ronnie
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Post by ronnie on May 8, 2012 8:48:14 GMT 2
Hi Ruan
The fan you see was not permanent but was fitted through the radiator with m3 nuts and bolts. I prefer the fans to be on the outside blowing through the radiator as you can bolt the fans to the body and not through the radiator. you can then also retain the mechanical fan if needed.
Ronnie
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Post by Roons on May 8, 2012 10:09:37 GMT 2
Ronnie, no problems with your fan.
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Post by Charles on May 20, 2012 17:24:02 GMT 2
Can someone who has a loose starter please give me the measurement between the holes as marked A B and C as in the left hand corner of the pic. Charles Attachments:
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on May 20, 2012 19:20:33 GMT 2
I can give them to you on saturday if noone else answers.
Ari
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Post by Charles on May 20, 2012 19:46:52 GMT 2
Thanks Ari. I think Danie has a few loose starters.
Charles
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Nikki Lada
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Post by Nikki Lada on May 20, 2012 21:00:12 GMT 2
Hi Charles
My old one is in pieces in a box somewhere in the garage - I'll have a look for you tomorrow.
NIKKI
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Post by Charles on May 20, 2012 22:06:41 GMT 2
Thanks Nikki
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Nikki Lada
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Post by Nikki Lada on May 21, 2012 20:06:59 GMT 2
Hi Charles I had a look at my old starter but I don’t have any suitable means of measuring the green line unfortunately. I didn’t realize when I volunteered that it was the bit that had the front of the starter going through it. I also don’t know whether the lines should be measured from outside to outside of the holes, inside to inside or centre to centre, etc., but what I can tell you is that the distance between the red and the blue lines appears to be identical on mine. Measuring it from outside to outside the holes with my steel tape measure I get 7.5cms in both cases. Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful but I’m sure someone else will be able to measure it properly for you. NIKKI
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Post by Charles on May 21, 2012 21:24:50 GMT 2
Thanks Nikki. That help me alot.
I should have been more clear. Center to center. I am trying to find a local replacement starter.
Charles
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Post by keithbatkins on May 21, 2012 23:08:35 GMT 2
Good Luck with that Charles.....and please let me know if you succeed :-) I've still not been brave enough to order the (wrong ?) starter motor from Pavel :-( Regards to all at LOCSA, Keith and CERATOTH
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Post by spikes on May 22, 2012 7:51:49 GMT 2
Hi Keith
Have you contacted Pavel to find out what he has to know in order to supply the correct starter(although I think all his starters for the NIVA match in the Critical Measurements in Charles' post) and the solenoid shape and gear will be correct.
regards
Spikes
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Post by spikes on May 22, 2012 7:56:20 GMT 2
Hi Nikki
The small side of you Vernier would be ideal to measure the green line
Was Nictec able to assist or did you sue someone else?
Regards
Spikes
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Post by Nikki Lada on May 22, 2012 13:34:08 GMT 2
Hi Spikes I can’t measure the green line with the vernier for Charles because I don’t have one at the moment. Without going into too much detail, soon after I bought mine I took it back as I suspected it had been damaged in transit. Unfortunately, I’ve been without one since as the supplying store never has stock. I had no problem getting a refund but I've been unable to find it at other outlets either and I found out yesterday that it will probably be another month before I can get one. With regard to the replacement resistor for the instrument cluster, Nic of Nictec was the first person who indicated that the 51ohm 5 watt was not a standard value and he put me on to RTC in Bester Street. Nelspruit, where he gets his stuff. RTC could only supply a 68 ohm 5 watt resistor so I then went through to Mantec Electronics in Jhb who I discovered a couple of years ago when I was looking for a voltage regulator. Mantech can supply a 56 ohm 5 watt resistor which seems to be within the range of the original from what you say so that's what I'll get. NIKKI
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