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Post by Charles on Jan 13, 2011 20:44:04 GMT 2
Hi Mike
I never thought about the uno one. Will have a look at it tomorrow.
Will lets you guys know.
Charles
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Jakes
Junior Niva Petrol Head
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Post by Jakes on Jan 14, 2011 5:14:54 GMT 2
I have a feeling the UNO winder should work. Please let us know when you find out.
Thanks
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Post by ronnie on Jan 14, 2011 9:27:48 GMT 2
Hi Charles It is easy to fit the after market winders, but it is a very difficult job to get them to work. . If you have the later model without the Quarter light windows the vertical runners do NOT keep the window rising vertical. The winder mechanism does that. I don`t know if a centre lift winder will work or not as I have never looked at one. One thing which gives major problems is where the window goes when it is in the down position. Open the door and look at the runners from the door lock end. You will see the glass does not go straight down but heads to the bottom OUTSIDE of the door. This puts great strain on the scissor type mechanism as the winder part is bolted to the inner panel and the further down you wind the window the more strain you exert on it. I will remove the engine, gearbox and transfer case and you will still be cursing and swearing ;D ;D ;D. If you don`t believe me ask Hercules. ;D ;D ;D Good luck Ronnie
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Post by ronnie on Jan 14, 2011 9:35:08 GMT 2
Hi Charles
Sorry I forgot to answer your question. It is bolted to both ends of the bottom of the window. As i said before make sure the winder part is in the correct position before you drill the fixing screws to the door skin.
Ronnie
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Post by Charles on Jan 14, 2011 13:12:00 GMT 2
Hi Guys
Uno ones arn't even close. Got a venture one and a golf one. Still deciding which one to use. The say a guy with a lada modified a isuzu one for his driver door. Worked nicely. Looks like it is more of a mission than the toyota one. I really want one with a runner. So far its the golf one. Mike has fitted one so it does work. The thing with the sissor one is there is then lots of strain on that thin piece of sheet metal in the door.
Will keep you guys updated.
Charles
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Koos
Full Niva Petrol Head
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Post by Koos on Jan 14, 2011 14:21:30 GMT 2
The golf one sounds good, but be careful if you need to bend it to fit into the door... Had to replace one in my car a little while back and some idiot thought it was bent and then bent it straight... The tube then changed its shape, causing heavy strain on the mechanism, which was a bit of a mess to fix.
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Post by ronnie on Jan 14, 2011 18:09:26 GMT 2
Hi Charles
What ever one you decide to use please take a photo of itnfor me BEFORE you fit it.
Ronnie
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Post by hotstuff on Jan 14, 2011 18:47:01 GMT 2
well i will do so with the next fitment guys.
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Post by Charles on Jan 14, 2011 18:59:50 GMT 2
Hi Guys
Had a close look at my original one today. Nothing is wrong with it! The cables has just been cut. does anyone have a passenger window regulator lying around. Maybe someone who had to replace theirs because of damaged pullys.
Do anyone know how long is the steel cable. Cut mine open today. Want to try and repair it with a piece of cable. Will be a missin but there is no harm in trying.
Will get a price from Ventz aswell for a new one. A new golf regulator will cost me R120. Gointg to try and repair mine with electrical wire. 2mm. I know it will not last that long but its easyer and cheaper to experiment with.
Will keep you guys updated every step of the way. Hold thumbs.
Charles
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Jan 14, 2011 19:05:46 GMT 2
Hi Charles
If it is only the cable you can buy a new length of cable to fix it. Commercial Marine in St Francis has cable.
Ari
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Post by Charles on Jan 14, 2011 19:06:32 GMT 2
The golf regulator Where I cut my regulator Charles
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spikes
Moderator
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Post by spikes on Jan 14, 2011 19:19:07 GMT 2
Hi Charles Even a bicycle brake cable will work better than electric wire AND last much longer. Hi Ari welcome back Regards all Spikes
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Post by Charles on Jan 14, 2011 19:29:04 GMT 2
Hi Spikes
i didnt think of a bike cable. It will be dirt cheap.
Charles
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Jan 14, 2011 20:00:27 GMT 2
Many moons ago, I used one to replace the cable on my Alfetta's driver side window. Sold the car 4 years later with the cable still going. Cheers Spikes
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Post by Charles on Jan 24, 2011 16:02:54 GMT 2
Hi All
I bought the golf regulator and decided to toy around with it today. After about 15 min it was fitted and working without any problems. Just have to make stronger bars and move the bottom fixing point then it will be working fine. Will post pocs of everything tomorrow.
Even the trail fit is working better than I think the sissor type unit will ever work. For all the guys who has toyota units fitted I would advise you to seriously considder converting to the golf units. The standard Niva window winders also fit on the unit. You just have to grind a bit off the back.
Will put togerther step by step instructions tomorrow. (If time permits, been crazy at work)
Best of all you can mount the golf unit, with only a small piece cut off very close to the outer skin so that it has the same angle as the glass so it puts very little stress on the mechanism.
Charles
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Post by ronnie on Jan 24, 2011 16:14:51 GMT 2
Hi Charles
Looking forward to the pics.
Ronnie
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Post by marius on Jan 24, 2011 17:26:29 GMT 2
Hey Charles that sounds very promising for one day when I might need it - thanks!
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Post by Charles on Jan 24, 2011 17:45:48 GMT 2
Hi Marius
I honestly think if the cable and runners get some grease and oil at every service they will never fail. In my opinion they fail because of poor maintenance. It is a very good and strong design.
Charles
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Jan 24, 2011 19:41:06 GMT 2
Thanks Charles!!
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Ventzel
Senior Niva Petrol Head
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Post by Ventzel on Jan 25, 2011 11:01:47 GMT 2
The original mechanisms are maintenance free. It is difficult to remove handles and door trims from time to time just to grease the cable.
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Post by Charles on Jan 25, 2011 16:01:18 GMT 2
Hi Guys
Fitted the golf mechanism today. NOT THE FINEL FIT. Just got everything ligned up and working. The doot check strap just touches the mechanism, but that can easily be sorted just by bending the mechanism a little bit. Will post pics tonight. I drilled two holes on the wrong places. The one was a guess and the other one a measurement error. I am ery happy with how the mechanism is working. Say an hour to fit and R120. I think thats a bargain. Even the way its fitted now I think it will work without any problems.
I was even able to use the standard Niva handle. I was so gratefull for that now the two will not look different and that is what I was scared of.
Charles
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Post by Charles on Jan 25, 2011 16:02:59 GMT 2
Hi Ventz
I know its a bit of effort but I think well worth doing. Will do it to my driver one at every service.
Charles
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Post by hotstuff on Jan 25, 2011 18:07:06 GMT 2
well done told you it works with a bit of savy etc...
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Post by Charles on Jan 25, 2011 20:51:21 GMT 2
Hi Guys Here is how I fitted the golf window regulator. I wasn't planning on leaving it as it is now, but it is working perfectly so I decided to leave it as is. Not very neat but no body can see it. So its a case of out of sight out of mind. If something is unclear on my pics just ask. Here goes. The golf mk1 unit. After I fitted mine I realised the door check strap catches on the unit so it has to be bent. Only a little bit otherwise the unit will now work. Here is where I bent the unit. It has to get bent towards the side where the handle goes on. The unit after bending I filed the hole bigger for the center piece of the regulator to go thru. This is the base of the unit I cut a part off so it can fit closer to the outer skin of the door. Then I drilled a hole in the bottom of the door to bolt the unit in. The whole on the right was a guess and in the wrong place. So just ignore it. The one on the left is in the perfect position. I then cut the bottom pully out. I also cut the bottom part of the window fixing off so I can bolt a flat piece of bar on it. If you connect the unit to the window without the bar the window will not go all the way up. I did not measure the bar. Just let the window go down onto the stop and turn the regulator all the way down. The bar must then connect the unit to the window. I then sprayed some rust inhibitor on all the spots where bare metal was exposed. The upper part of the unit has a fixing point attached to it. I used two pieces of the fixing bars I got with my central locking kit. I used a piece on the inside and outside just because the the bars is very soft. A single piece of 2mm bar on the inside should work perfectly. Here is the bar I was talking about earlyer. If you have one with a big window I will fit a second bar to the other hole on the unit so it forms a triangle just for added support and to make sure the window doesn't tilt. With the unit bolted straigt it looks like the handle part will not fit. You can pull it a bit untill it reaches the hole. I measured the holes on the unit and drilled the holes where it bolts in. I used longish bolts so the bolts can pull the unit into place. Then you can take your standard Niva handle and gring a bit off the bac. It will then work on the golf unit. I put a small nut, of which I drilled the hole bigger, on the inside of mine to space it out a bit so it doesnt catch on the door panel. There you gol Works perfectly. I dont think it will take more than a hour to fit. Best of all the is nothing that has to get alighned. Regards Charles
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Post by ronnie on Jan 26, 2011 8:50:59 GMT 2
Hi Charles
Looks good, but I did not realize you had the small windows. It will be interesting to see if this will work on the full size windows or not, remembering that the window guides will in no way keep the window vertical.
Ronnie
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Post by Charles on Jan 26, 2011 10:05:51 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie
Well the front guide on mine is missing. The window cant tilt because the runner keeps it vertical. I cant see why it will not work on the big window. If you ever drive this way you can stop by me and I will gladly fit one for you.
Charles
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Post by ronnie on Jan 26, 2011 14:38:48 GMT 2
Hi Charles
On mine the front window will fall for-wards all the time as the vertical part of glass at the front is very short. On your quarter light version your top part of the guide cannot be missing as that is where the quarter light closes to. The Bottom guide inside the door may be missing but I doubt very much if the top can be. Your glass will be guided by the top part all the way down. I could not really make out how your mechanism mounted to the glass but assume it has one connection point only. If so that would not stop the large front window type glass from trying to rotate anti clockwise. The tightness of your one bolt would be all that stopped the glass trying to tip to the front. As far as fitting one for me goes, you are welcome to attempt the passenger door for me. You will drink plenty of beer in the process ;D
Ronnie
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Post by Charles on Jan 26, 2011 16:03:54 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie
That sounds like a plan. For the bigger windows I would het the fixing point that goes on the underside of the window. Glue that to whe window a bit forward and connect that with a piece of flat bar to the front hole of the mechanism. Then it cant tilt forward.
Charles
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Post by marius on Mar 23, 2011 15:50:29 GMT 2
Hi all
The window on the driver's side is getting tight as it gets near the top. I had a bit of a look but could not see anything wrong - though I did not remove the side panel completely.
I did manage to get some grease onto the bottom rollers and the leaver gears and also on some parts of the rope. Lubrication did not do too much though and as far as I could see there was probably enough lubrication on all the parts already.
Regards Marius
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spikes
Moderator
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Post by spikes on Mar 23, 2011 17:50:00 GMT 2
Hi Marius I suppose you have checked the obvious channel condition? And sprayed dry lubricant into the channels? Frame not bent by any chance? That's it from my brain box regards Spikes
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