butasteve
Senior Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 366
Location: Western Cape
Town: Paarl
Registered: Jan 22, 2011 12:02:42 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by butasteve on Aug 29, 2011 13:11:24 GMT 2
Spikes The pipe is slightly bigger than the bolt and only about 1.9 wall thickness. The bolt is a 12mm. I would like to use a 16mm rod and drill a 12mm hole. This option will look also good when somebody else look at the job done.
Regards Stephen
|
|
spikes
Moderator
Posts: 3,689
Location: Mpumalanga
Town: Nelspruit
Registered: Apr 19, 2010 19:39:51 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by spikes on Aug 29, 2011 13:15:29 GMT 2
Hi Stephen & Ronnie I'd just add a 12mm washer to each end of a suitably shortened pipe spacer, tack it in place and live with that. rgds Spikes
|
|
|
Post by ronnie on Aug 29, 2011 13:41:53 GMT 2
Hi Spikes
That would be more than adequate
Ronnie
|
|
butasteve
Senior Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 366
Location: Western Cape
Town: Paarl
Registered: Jan 22, 2011 12:02:42 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by butasteve on Aug 29, 2011 15:57:44 GMT 2
Spikes/Ronnie Thanks a mil. Just what the Doctor ordered. Never thought of that. Much easier that buying / begging a piece of rod.
Regards Stephen
|
|
spikes
Moderator
Posts: 3,689
Location: Mpumalanga
Town: Nelspruit
Registered: Apr 19, 2010 19:39:51 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by spikes on Aug 30, 2011 19:35:53 GMT 2
Dear All Good morning. Our Lada is Mobile again since Saturday around Lunchtime. Thanks for all the input. Went Local=The Best Option. New Battery: Exite : (R486.43 @ Autozone) Replacement Alternator : Bosch 80Amp (R570 @ AutoElectrician)) Adjustment Bracket : Homemade - (Elbow Grease @ Home) Kind regards Stephen Hi Stephen Do you perhaps still have the specific number of the Bosch alternator?? It has been said before...The NIVAs are linked to ea. other. Today when I started the Bongol battery voltage was down to 10v. Checked the fan-belt which was tight so the alternator finally gave up after is first hiccups some 6000km back When you line up the bush with the washers, do it in a vice so that you can use a bolt as the main guide. Do not bother to much about the alignment as the bolt through the brackets will lign itself to the two tacked washers. Regards Spikes
|
|
vincentc
Veteran Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 1,130
Registered: Mar 16, 2011 17:59:16 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by vincentc on Aug 30, 2011 20:51:29 GMT 2
they are ALL psychically connected And I am not imagining it. perhaps we should only talk about the GOOD thaings that happen on a Lada. Perhaps a fuel economy of 7l/100 km (hey who said we could not be REALLY optimistic) or that you Niva Never breaks down. Regards Vincent (Living in LALA LAND LOCSA )
|
|
butasteve
Senior Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 366
Location: Western Cape
Town: Paarl
Registered: Jan 22, 2011 12:02:42 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by butasteve on Aug 31, 2011 8:22:58 GMT 2
Spikes Good morning
Will have a look later, it's raining - we need every drop. Paarl and neigbouring towns rely mainly on Agri activities.
Regards Stephen
|
|
|
Post by ronnie on Aug 31, 2011 9:07:53 GMT 2
Hi Stephen
When you make your final spacer, if you are not sure about getting the length exactly correct, make it a fraction smaller than required so you can add a washer (or 2) so the pulleys are all lined up correctly. On mine I could align the pulleys with spacers behind the alternator pulley, but don`t know if you can do this.
Ronnie
|
|
butasteve
Senior Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 366
Location: Western Cape
Town: Paarl
Registered: Jan 22, 2011 12:02:42 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by butasteve on Aug 31, 2011 9:22:34 GMT 2
Ronnie
I did that with a fairly thick washer and the rest on the Bracket self. I even turned the pulley around to check the alignment and it indeed made a difference. The pulley is not part of the finned thingy.
I still need to do the interrior lights and the spots - just waiting for longer daylight hours. Will also have a look at the headlights - they do not compare to the HL of other cars I've driven. Enough grumbling - off to Lada enjoyment.
Regards
|
|
butasteve
Senior Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 366
Location: Western Cape
Town: Paarl
Registered: Jan 22, 2011 12:02:42 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by butasteve on Sept 1, 2011 9:53:34 GMT 2
Spikes Good morning I've spoked to Bevan, who supplied the Bosch Alternator. He cannot remember the Part/Model no or from which car it came. The no is faded, scratched off. I'll have a look when I go home this afternoon for the possibility to take some pics. Yesterday was too late. It's kind of biggish and shorter that the Lada's old Alternator
Our Daughter is in Hospital - I'll leave earlier from work.
Regards Stephen
|
|
spikes
Moderator
Posts: 3,689
Location: Mpumalanga
Town: Nelspruit
Registered: Apr 19, 2010 19:39:51 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by spikes on Sept 1, 2011 11:56:49 GMT 2
Hi Stephen Not to worry, the shop has found a Lucas that is a close fit. I'll post details for general information when I collect the NIVA Thanks Spikes
|
|
allan
New Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 37
Registered: May 15, 2011 7:08:23 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by allan on Sept 10, 2011 15:16:39 GMT 2
Hi All
Ok so I am lazy and have only now got around to looking into the problem with the slow current loss in my Lada. (Apologies for the delay) I have just been disconnecting the battery after each trip to stop it going flat.
I have isolated the problem to a relay behind the foot-well panel on the passenger side. When I connect the power to the battery the ignition relay kicks -in. I had a problem a few months ago, when the starter"on" relay packed up, leaving me stranded at the shops. That relay is also behind the foot-well panel.
I have tried a new relay in the ignition circuit, but it also just clicks on when I connect the power. Any advice as to how I need to proceed from here, to try and trace the fault, would be highly appreciated.
Thanks
Allan
|
|
|
Post by ronnie on Sept 10, 2011 18:24:10 GMT 2
Hi Allan
How do you know this is the ignition relay, does the ignition warning light and the brake warning lights come on? One relay like that energized all the time will kill the battery in a week. Also is the wiring to the relay original or has it been added?.
Ronnie
|
|
allan
New Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 37
Registered: May 15, 2011 7:08:23 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by allan on Sept 11, 2011 8:23:30 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie
The warning lights for ignition and brakes do not come on. The ignition relay wiring is as per original in the Lada 1700 colour diagrams (page 27 relay no.30)
The battery does go flat in 4-5 days (new battery and new alternator), you will recall, you showed me how to trace the fault with a multi-meter, (in June) by testing the current loss and then how to trace the problem by testing over the fuse connectors, when pulling fuses. Then you asked that I listen for a relay clicking-in, when power is connected. I could hear the relay click when I re-connected the power, I then opened the passenger foot-well panel and it was the ignition relay that clicks-in. The previous owner messed with the wiring, but I cannot make out exactly what he did, it had an electric fan connected, but later removed, (by Jan from Centurion....)and it also has a foot operated dip switch, I am not sure if this is original or not, but it is on the floor between clutch and brake pedals. I did find 2 broken wires under the steering column cover, which I re-connected, but it did not sort the power drain, (or the dip switch, but they can flash when pulled back now), this is very frustrating!
Thanks
Allan
|
|
spikes
Moderator
Posts: 3,689
Location: Mpumalanga
Town: Nelspruit
Registered: Apr 19, 2010 19:39:51 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by spikes on Sept 11, 2011 8:29:41 GMT 2
Hi Allan The foot operated dip switch is definitely not original. The wiring leading to this should also be inspected for open sections as it will likely be underfoot at some point Good luck Spikes
|
|
|
Post by ronnie on Sept 11, 2011 8:50:57 GMT 2
Hi Allan
It is always difficult when you can`t see the vehicle. The first thing to do is to unplug the relay and find out what is now not working. If everything still works, just leave the relay out in the meantime. But be sure to check everything !. Let me know what you find.
Ronnie
|
|
allan
New Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 37
Registered: May 15, 2011 7:08:23 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by allan on Sept 11, 2011 10:57:41 GMT 2
Thanks Guys
Ronnie, I will do it later today and report back.
Allan
|
|
|
Post by ronnie on Sept 11, 2011 11:39:28 GMT 2
Hi Allan
If you want to get the original dip sw on the column working again you would need to check if it still works, and no doubt it does not as that will be the reason for the floor one. I guess the 2 connectors under the column shroud are the dip and main beam connections from the column switch. The 2 which should join to these probably go to the floor switch. One should be blue with white and the other grey with red.
Ronnie
|
|
allan
New Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 37
Registered: May 15, 2011 7:08:23 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by allan on Sept 11, 2011 17:32:21 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie
I pulled the ignition relay.....the indicators do not work, the windscreen wipers do not work (the back one does work) I cleaned all the light connectors yesterday, now the back lights do not work with or without the ignition relay.....what a mess! The starter spins without the ignition relay, but obviously does not start.
Any advice? Or cut my odds and find a decent auto electrician (it has been to an auto electrician before at huge cost, a year or so ago, but obviously it was not sorted.)
Allan
|
|
|
Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Sept 11, 2011 18:06:14 GMT 2
The best will be to try to figure it out yourself, and the cheapest.
Do none of the back lights work? Could be you forgot to pussh the connecters in far enough?
Ari
|
|
|
Post by ronnie on Sept 11, 2011 18:21:19 GMT 2
Hi Allan
Being so far away it is not easy to help. The dip switch should not be a major problem, as the 3 wires from the column sw must simply have been rerouted. All I can suggest is arming yourself with the wiring diagram and colour code and try to return every thing back to original. I know electrical can be confusing on a car, but take your time and THINK first before doing anything. If you want to "mask" the problem, remove the live wire feeding the coil tape it up and connect a new wire from the coil connection and take it to a known connection which is only live when the ignition switch is on. The safest one for you would be connection no 15 on the back of the ignition switch and I think the wire is blue. You can easily check with your meter which is live with the ignition on. Once you know which wire to connect to, disconnect the battery first while you make the connection. That way there will be no accidents. On the relay the coil connections are 85 and 86. Make sure the wire you remove is the live one and not the earth.
Ronnie
Ronnie
|
|
Hercules
Veteran Niva Petrol Head
Lada - your peace of mind to take on the world's vast landscapes.
Posts: 785
Location: Gauteng
Town: Benoni
Registered: Oct 2, 2009 11:55:41 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by Hercules on Sept 11, 2011 18:58:40 GMT 2
To me it sounds that the relay positive on either connection 85 or 86 is connected to a permanent positive and not to the ignition switch positive on.
Regards.
Hercules
|
|
|
Post by ronnie on Sept 11, 2011 19:26:47 GMT 2
Hi Hercules
You are correct, I have tried to explain to Allan how to overcome it. I just hope it is that simply and feeding the relay from a connection known to be only on with the ignition switch corrects it. When people interfere with the wiring and do not know what they are doing always leads to problems.
Ronnie
|
|
|
Post by ronnie on Sept 11, 2011 19:29:59 GMT 2
Hi Allan
I was looking at one of your previous posts and if I am reading it correctly the original dip switch is now working ?
Ronnie
|
|
allan
New Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 37
Registered: May 15, 2011 7:08:23 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by allan on Sept 12, 2011 16:38:22 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie
After connecting the 2 broken wires in the steering column, the original dip switch would flash the lights, but they would not dip. (like warning an oncoming car of a speedtrap ahead?) However I do think we may be onto something here, it seems related to the steering column wiring, as the indicators and wipers do not work when the ignition relay is pulled. When the relay is pushed back, the indicators now flash fast, as per one of my other threads.
As for the back lights, the brake lights work and the indicators work, although they flash fast. So it could not be an earth problem.
Thanks
Allan
|
|
|
Post by ronnie on Sept 12, 2011 17:48:16 GMT 2
Hi Allan
Do the indicators flash fast to both the right and left,? as a bad earth will also change the speed at which they flash. I don`t know if your dip etc has ever worked, but you lift the lever to flash, and pull towards the seat for full beam. Keep the information coming as it helps to try and sort out your problems. Try to use the individual wiring diagrams in the manual with the colour coding to trace as much as you can.. How many wires are at the floor dip switch ?
Ronnie
|
|
allan
New Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 37
Registered: May 15, 2011 7:08:23 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by allan on Sept 13, 2011 16:25:23 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie
Yes the indicators flash fast left and right. But it was progressive, so it could be a deteriorating earth connection somewhere. Will check it out. I will also see if I can check how many wires go to the foot dip switch. I bought it with the foot dip switch, so no the column dip switch has never worked.
Thanks
Allan
|
|
|
Post by ronnie on Sept 13, 2011 17:49:23 GMT 2
Hi Allan
I would start with the earth to the flasher unit and then try another flasher unit.
Ronnie
|
|
allan
New Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 37
Registered: May 15, 2011 7:08:23 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by allan on Sept 14, 2011 16:21:49 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie
Thanks, I am going to try and make sure all the earths are well connected and if that does not work, I will replace the flasher unit.
Any ideas why the back lights do not work anymore? I see the brake lights and the rear fog lights work correctly.
Drove the Lada for about 90 km today, mechanically it runs well, just the damn electrics!
Thanks
Allan
|
|
|
Post by ronnie on Sept 14, 2011 17:59:11 GMT 2
Hi Allan
Check the fuses are all OK and they are making good connection. Use you meter and check the Lamps are OK. If all this fails you will need to check the wiring with your meter to see where the problem is. Fuses 3,4,5,6,7 and 8 in the main fuse block are all involved in the lighting, so check them carefully. The connections to the printed circuits at the back lights can give problems so unplug the connector to them and check with the meter if the power is perhaps getting there. Then you will know if the problem is in the wiring or the lights themselves. Again watch the lamps are earthing nicely.
Ronnie
|
|