grimmwolf
Junior Niva Petrol Head
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Post by grimmwolf on May 26, 2011 8:05:37 GMT 2
Hi all,
Most of the technical issues on my Lada is resolved, but there is two things that I need some assistance with.
1. What is the ideal battery size for a Lada Niva 1.7i? Currently there is a 622 in the Lada, but I think this battery size is a bit weak for the Lada. I know my wife’s Astina pulled a 621 size dead in a week.
2. My front lights are about as bright as a candle....I think I will actually have more light if I just burn a candle and stick it up front. Do you think it is related to the 622 battery or could he be something else? I have read somewhere about the lights, but now that I need to pay attention to it, I can't fnid the article.
Thanks,
Oh, before I forget. Has anyone replaced the window gear inside the door of a Lada? Midas tells me I need to go to the manufacturer to get a new part. Any idea what local part can be used?
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Post by ronnie on May 26, 2011 9:14:01 GMT 2
Hi Grimmwolf
A) I can`t remember the correct size of battery but I always use the biggest size possible. B) The best lights to use are a set of semi sealed beams with 60 / 55 lamps. stay away from high wattage lamps like 100 / 100. Buy the best quality lights available as some of the Chinese ones rust very quickly. Even with a not so good battery the alternator should keep the lights shining brightly. C) If the small wheels inside the door including the ones out of sight in the top of the door are turning freely and are not cut with the winding wire I would strongly advise you to stick with the original winder. Replacement winder and wire mechanism are available . If the hidden wheels are cut by the wire (the other ones can easily be replaced) you may need to try to fit a winder out of a Toyota Venture. Fitting one and getting it to work nicely is another story. The best word I could use here is "nightmare". If you need to go this route buy genuine Toyota as I tried to fit an aftermarket one, which broke before I could finish the installing it.
Ronnie
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Post by marius on May 26, 2011 9:49:51 GMT 2
Hi Grimmwolf I knew Ronnie would have a better answer than me ;D Only real comment I can make is that the original Russian bty lasted for more than 8 years. My replacement bty is one of those supposedly "maintanance free" ones. I can't really see any number on it but it has been good for nearly three years now. The Lada should not be heavy on a bty at all Marius
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vincentc
Veteran Niva Petrol Head
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Post by vincentc on May 26, 2011 10:21:20 GMT 2
Hi grimmwolf
Redo the earth connection on the headlights. This is the lug behind the light bracket. Use an electrical contact gel like Nyogel 760C to ensure proper electrical connections.
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Hercules
Veteran Niva Petrol Head
Lada - your peace of mind to take on the world's vast landscapes.
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Post by Hercules on May 27, 2011 18:08:29 GMT 2
The correct battery for the Lada 1.7 or 1.7i is 643. Alternative a 638/639.
Regards.
Hercules
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vincentc
Veteran Niva Petrol Head
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Post by vincentc on May 27, 2011 19:46:48 GMT 2
Thanks Hercules. This will go on my phone for when I next buy a battery
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vincentc
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Post by vincentc on May 27, 2011 19:49:44 GMT 2
Hi Grimmwolf let us know what the problem was with your issue. On the winder handles, I was in Midas and they had universal aluminium handles for sale. s
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allan
New Niva Petrol Head
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Post by allan on Jun 5, 2011 17:34:15 GMT 2
Hi All
Could not find any thread for this issue. Since I bought my Lada about 4 years ago, I have had to disconnect the battery if I did not use the car for a few days, as the battery would slowly lose current and be dead in about 3-4 days.
It has been to an auto electrician, at great cost (through Lada Centurion...let's not go there....) who also replaced the alternator and a new battery, but the problem persists.
I did find 2 snapped wires under the steering column plastic cover, reattached them, but still no improvement.
I am not good at electrics but do have a multimeter in a shiny new box, can somebody advise how I go about narrowing down the cause of the slow current drain?
Thanks
Allan
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Post by ronnie on Jun 5, 2011 17:54:17 GMT 2
Hi Allan
The only thing I can suggest is to check the battery discharge when idle, when the discharge should be limited to the radio memory and an alarm if fitted. Your multimeter MAY have a 10 amp dc range. If it does the red lead will have a separate socket to plug into. I will assume you have this. When your meter is in this mode do not under any circumstances put is ac cross the battery terminals or any positive connection and earth. To check the discharge rate disconnect the live battery connection with the ignition and every thing off. Clip the black meter lead to the positive lead and the red meter lead to the battery positive connection. The reading will show you the amperage discharge. Multiply the reading by 24 hours and that is the loss every day. E.g. .025 amps x 24hours= o.6 amp. This equals 18 amps per month which will not affect the starting after 30 days. I hope you can understand all this rambling. When you are finished put the red lead of the meter back into the normal socket before you bugger up the meter. It is easy to do as I have done it and should know better.
Ronnie
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Post by ronnie on Jun 5, 2011 18:02:17 GMT 2
Hi Allan Here is a picture of my meter in 10 amp dc mode. I hope it helps. Ronnie Attachments:
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Post by ronnie on Jun 5, 2011 18:10:42 GMT 2
Hi Allan Here is a pic of my meter in DC 10 amp range Ronnie Attachments:
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spikes
Moderator
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Post by spikes on Jun 5, 2011 19:14:27 GMT 2
Thanks Ronnie! Please explain why it will bugger up the AVO? Just curios. I assume that I should put the selector into the DCmA sector as well? regards Spikes
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Post by ronnie on Jun 5, 2011 20:27:35 GMT 2
Hi Spikes
I have not seen a proper Avo meter for 40 years. I think they can only measure dc milliamp so I would not try measuring current on a car with one. They are more suitable for electronic work. On a multi meter, in dc 10 amp mode you are measuring via a coil so the connection in the meter between the leads is solid. If you put it across the battery it is a dead short. The meters have a fuse inside but very often the fuse goes and the circuit in the meter also blows.
Ronnie
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vincentc
Veteran Niva Petrol Head
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Post by vincentc on Jun 5, 2011 21:00:33 GMT 2
Hi Allan
Check all your earth connections especially those behind the head lights.
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Post by Charles on Jun 6, 2011 16:13:51 GMT 2
Ronnie that looks like a fairly expensive meter. I use to buy the good ones until somebody else blew mine.
Charles
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allan
New Niva Petrol Head
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Post by allan on Jun 6, 2011 17:12:15 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie
Thanks for the info. I checked as you indicated and my reading was .12 amps, which works out at 2.88 amps per day or 86.4 amp per month!!
So I have a current drain somewhere, how do I go about checking further?
Allan
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vincentc
Veteran Niva Petrol Head
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Post by vincentc on Jun 6, 2011 17:18:31 GMT 2
Hi Allan
I would put the meter on, an start pulling fuses one at a time till I see the circuit that is affecting the current draw.
Once you have the circuit identified, then you can take it further.
Good Luck
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Post by ronnie on Jun 6, 2011 17:55:22 GMT 2
Hi Allan
Vincent has answered your question. You can check the discharge if you remove the fuse and put the meter across the fuse connections the same as at the battery you will then get the reading on that fuse only. Again watch what you do as it is so easy to put the meter across the battery power. At least you now know what the problem is. Also look for a relay which someone has added and is energized all the time. If every thing is off you will hear a relay if you can get an assistant to remove and replace the battery connection.
Ronnie
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Post by ronnie on Jun 6, 2011 18:09:14 GMT 2
Hi Charles I got the meter as a present. The other one i put power across it when testing the current draw on the Lada. it is so easy to forget to change the lead into the right socket when you have finished testing, like I did Ronnie
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Post by Charles on Jun 6, 2011 19:14:35 GMT 2
It might be the battery aswell.
Charles
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Jun 6, 2011 19:16:26 GMT 2
Hi Spikes I have not seen a proper Avo meter for 40 years. I think they can only measure dc milliamp so I would not try measuring current on a car with one. They are more suitable for electronic work. On a multi meter, in dc 10 amp mode you are measuring via a coil so the connection in the meter between the leads is solid. If you put it across the battery it is a dead short. The meters have a fuse inside but very often the fuse goes and the circuit in the meter also blows. Ronnie Thanks Ronnie. AVO just sticks in my head. Mine is a MAJOR multi-meter but not a digital one. About three years old. Its got the Dc10A connection but at the left top just below the display as it is above the negative it looks out of place with the red bung hole at the bottom Hopefully I won't short it out Regards Spikes
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allan
New Niva Petrol Head
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Post by allan on Jun 7, 2011 10:34:23 GMT 2
Hi all, thanks for the info. Charles, it is a new battery, so that is an unlikly cuprit.
I do not have an alarm system fitted and i have one of those old radios that is non-memory type, so I don't think it draws any current when the car is off.
Ronnie, the extra relay, maybe an issue that I need to look at, as the first owner had fitted electric fans, which were later removed by the 2nd owner before I bought it, will have a look at that possibility.
Thanks
Allan
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Post by ronnie on Jun 7, 2011 17:23:52 GMT 2
Hi Allan
If you keep using the meter you will soon find it.
Ronnie
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butasteve
Senior Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 366
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Post by butasteve on Aug 15, 2011 10:19:38 GMT 2
Dear All Good day. Yesterday while driving, we smell something bad. My wife said asked whether I've driven over a dead dog or something as we were driving on a dirt road through muddy pools along the Bergviver. When we read the Daljosaphat Industrial Area the smell was still there. I took a tar road drive to Wellington and decided to rather go home and have the undersid of the car washed. While looking under the car to check if something was stuck, I could hardly breath due to the stench. I opened the bonnet and a horrible smell filled my nostrills, gaping for air. I've never had such a near choking experience in a long time - found the Battery giving of gas. I removed the Battery, fumes still coming out. The Battery was very hot. I left it standing outside, for I had to attend a meeting. On my return I found the Battery to be dry, though I've checked it a while back and it was almost full. I would appreciate if somebody can perhaps shed some light on this issue. Kind regards Stephen
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Aug 15, 2011 10:48:32 GMT 2
Sounds like your battery sprung a leak (casing cracked) and then the plates overheated, buckled and touched each other causing a short circuit.
Ari
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Post by marius on Aug 15, 2011 10:49:34 GMT 2
Hi Stephen That is very unusual and I would think very dangerous and very toxic! The Niva (as standard) consumes very little energy from the battery. On the other hand with the Honda I had I had two burst batteries but nothing like you described. Hopefully someone with more electrical experience can pinpoint your problem for you. Marius
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Post by ronnie on Aug 15, 2011 11:25:53 GMT 2
Hi Steve
I would check the regulator in the alternator is working, as it could be overcharging. As Marius mentioned there is always a possibility it is the battery. I had a similar fault recently when I went round to my friends house to check a battery he left on charge the day before. The charger was still showing a 9 amp charge and the battery was VERY hot. This time it was the battery.
Ronnie
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Post by hotstuff on Aug 15, 2011 11:35:47 GMT 2
def over charge diode plate probably not working correctly
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butasteve
Senior Niva Petrol Head
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Post by butasteve on Aug 15, 2011 12:06:19 GMT 2
Thanks Guys.
Will check the charge current with a multimeter this afternoon. Just another question: Can such a Battery explode and can it cause a fire?
Regards Stephen
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Post by Charles on Aug 15, 2011 13:06:39 GMT 2
Yes it can explode and the acid destroys everything.
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