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Post by marje46nuns on Apr 5, 2011 23:19:59 GMT 2
Thanks for posting the photos Danie - I now fully understand what Hercules is talking about. NIKKI
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Post by danie on Apr 6, 2011 6:22:07 GMT 2
I am crossing fingers that Ventz will be prepared to tell us how much the pin should stick out when all components are new. Danie
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Apr 6, 2011 8:21:51 GMT 2
Just need the engine to still be standard, not opened before as then there is a high probability that the head and block have been skimmed. This would have the effect of closeing the distance between the sprockets and effectively LENGTHENING the chain.
Ari
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Post by marius on Apr 6, 2011 8:25:16 GMT 2
Does anybody know how I can ghet the cap off if its slipping? Charles That is just amazing - I don't understand how it can be slipping. Someone seriously screwed up when they tightened it! I think the pin is pressing against the shoe and not the chain? Actually I found a few stripped nuts and bolts on our Niva when it was brand new! Also found many nuts and bolts that were not tightened properly - esp on the right hand side of the car! Also found a very rusted nut under the rear hatch sill trim panel Someone had too much Vodka ;D Regards Marius
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Apr 6, 2011 8:34:17 GMT 2
Does anybody know how I can ghet the cap off if its slipping? Charles I think the pin is pressing against the shoe and not the chain? Regards Marius Yes Marius the tensioner pin pushes against the back of the shoe and the shoe against the chain. Ari
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Post by Charles on Apr 6, 2011 10:07:23 GMT 2
Marius I will have a look on sunday if I can get it off.
Charles
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Post by ronnie on Apr 6, 2011 10:26:46 GMT 2
Hi All
Some one asked for the measurements of the pin for the chain adjustment. I measured mine this morning and it is exactly 2 mm. This motor has done about 6000km since it was overhauled.
Ronnie
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Post by ronnie on Apr 6, 2011 10:33:53 GMT 2
Hi Charles
The adjusting nut does not take many turns to come off. Remember if the collets are gripping the shaft it will not come out. Hence the advice to tap the cap with a hammer after you have unscrewed a couple of turns.
Ronnie
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Koos
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Post by Koos on Apr 6, 2011 11:11:50 GMT 2
Hi everyone I think I need to tighten mine as well. I have this feeling that the noise I was referring to a while back might be the timing chain... One thing I don't quite get though is, if I loosen the retaining nut by turning it anti-clockwise. How exactly do I increase the tension by also turning it anti-clockwise? Just to be clear, the crank needs to be turned clockwise, right? Thanks Koos
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Post by ronnie on Apr 6, 2011 12:38:52 GMT 2
Hi koos
Jack up one front wheel to clear the ground. Loosen the adjusting cap (13 socket) a couple of turns, hit it gently with a hammer to make sure the collets are free. Then turn the motor clockwise and only clockwise 2 or three turns with the jacked up wheel. I find it easy in 5th low ratio if the spark plugs have not been removed. Then tighten the adjusting cap and you can have a coffee.
Ronnie
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Koos
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Post by Koos on Apr 6, 2011 12:47:25 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie
Will the shoe also adjust during this process? Or is it not necessary to adjust the shoe?
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Post by ronnie on Apr 6, 2011 12:51:33 GMT 2
Hi Koos
This is all that is required to adjust the chain.
Ronnie
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Koos
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Post by Koos on Apr 6, 2011 12:50:45 GMT 2
Ok, thanks Ronnie
Will do it this weekend.
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Ventzel
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Post by Ventzel on Apr 6, 2011 23:20:29 GMT 2
Well, I must admit I never measured the tensioner pin, it's clear at the first glimpse with cap removed what is the story there. Also by the noise of the engine is possible to determine what is wrong with the drive train mechanism.
And please stop all this nonsense with taping the cap with hammer. What do you want to achieve - to damage the fine threat as at the Charles' unit? Just remove the cap completely and be happy.
Ventz
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Post by danie on Apr 7, 2011 5:57:20 GMT 2
Hi Ventz
According to Ronnie's post the pin only sticks out 2mm, and I assume the tensioner shoe has been replaced when his engine has been overhauled 6000 km ago.
This boggles my mind a bit, because I thought the pin should stick out a bit further when all components are new.
So I still think it would be very helpful if you could let us know about the measurement whenever you do install new components in future.
Danie
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Post by ronnie on Apr 7, 2011 9:29:24 GMT 2
Hi Ventz
You will find the advice to tap the cap listed on many of the clubs around the world, there is a big difference between a tap and the words hit or blow. I do agree with you that removing the cap completely will have the same affect and is the preferable method.
Ronnie
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Post by ronnie on Apr 7, 2011 9:41:25 GMT 2
Hi Danie
It will be interesting to get some more measurements as I also thought 2 mm was very little. And this was before I adjusted it.
Ronnie
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Post by danie on Apr 7, 2011 19:19:46 GMT 2
Although I never had to try the "hammer tap" method to make the Tensioner work, I would also not dare to regard this "trick" as a joke. ;D
Danie
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Post by marius on Apr 7, 2011 20:03:29 GMT 2
Hi all
I've always done this according to the manual where you have to turn the crank shaft puly 2 revolutions max after you just loosened the cap.
Certainly no hitting mentioned but I suppose a light tap would not do any harm.
Regards Marius
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Koos
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Post by Koos on Apr 9, 2011 11:30:22 GMT 2
Ok, so now I now what the Lada should sound like.... All the noise was from the timing chain, sounds like a new car now. ;D Only have about 1mm on the pin though, so should probably start looking for replacement. Thanks for all the info everyone. Koos
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Post by ronnie on Apr 9, 2011 12:51:24 GMT 2
Hi Koos
The motor in mine has only done 6000 kms or so since it was rebuilt. The pin on mine is only 2mm, so perhaps yours is not so bad ? even taking into account Ari`s comments.
Ronnie
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vincentc
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Post by vincentc on Apr 9, 2011 16:53:20 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie. Want to brush up on the timing chain adjustment procedure?
<Grin>
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Post by ronnie on Apr 9, 2011 18:17:12 GMT 2
Hi Vincent
No problem, I have just done mine when I measured the pin.
Ronnie
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vincentc
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Post by vincentc on Apr 10, 2011 18:48:54 GMT 2
Thank you Ronnie. Having read the procedure and the arguments on the board, Ronnie popped in to show me how
All I can say is its Flippen easy - why bother trying to do auto slack adjusters if all it takes is 10 minutes.
I took a few pictures of the procedure for Newbies which may help.
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Apr 10, 2011 18:54:02 GMT 2
Hi Vincent
Post the pics it will help someone, that for sure.
Ari
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vincentc
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Post by vincentc on Apr 10, 2011 19:08:29 GMT 2
As shown by the Dalai Lada himself - Ronnie ;D Tools you will require:- 1 x Lada Niva 1 x Lada jack 1 x 13mm Socket 1 x Plug spanner 1 x T bar or Ratchet (Your preference) Start by removing the spark plugs (easier to turn the engine). Put the Lada into 5th gear low range - NOT Difflock !!!! Jack up the wheel.
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vincentc
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Post by vincentc on Apr 10, 2011 19:10:39 GMT 2
locate the adjuster cover nut. Loosen the nut and completely remove. (or turn a few times and gently tap with a hammer)
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vincentc
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Post by vincentc on Apr 10, 2011 19:18:20 GMT 2
Turn the wheel clockwise and get the engine to rotate at least twice. Fasten the tensioner lock nut - BUT DONT TRY BREAK IT OFF !!! Lower the vehicle Replace the spark plugs and leads. Bingo 1 x much quieter Lada engine. (Thanks to Ronnie for being the male model) ;D
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Post by marje46nuns on Apr 10, 2011 21:02:30 GMT 2
Hi Guys From what Hercules says earlier in this thread between 1mm and 3mm after the adjustment seems fine and it’s only a problem if the core is flush with the tensioner housing. Under the ‘Timing Chain Tensioner Thread’ Hercules also indicates that if the shoe is new the amount sticking out should be about 5mm. All of this I understood but then Ari confused me a bit with his comment that the engine would need to be standard. How much would the amount sticking out be affected if the head and block have been skimmed? My head has been skimmed and I also read something (on the UK Lada site I think) that if your head has been skimmed the marks used line up the chain will be ‘be some way past’. How much will ‘some way past’ be? I’m still waiting for the guy who promised to remove my tappet cover and check the alignment of my chain for me - I thought it was going to be this weekend but it didn’t happen. Vincent – what are the ‘auto slack adjusters’ you refer to? Thanks a stack. NIKKI
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Post by Charles on Apr 10, 2011 21:06:53 GMT 2
He is talking about the auto afjusters. The TB models came with them.
Charles
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