darrel
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Post by darrel on Jan 14, 2013 16:55:50 GMT 2
Where did you get a speedo drive for your box? Charles If you are referring to the speedo drive mounted on the Gearbox, that is the way that we bought it but it is not used. If you need it I can take it off and give it to you?
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darrel
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Post by darrel on Jan 14, 2013 17:24:30 GMT 2
1. To Ladanivabelgium;Yes you are right, there is no nut on that side as the stud was broken off. The Gearbox guy says there is negligible movement in that direction and that the alignment is fine. The covers inside the car is still off and one can see no movement in that direction. I will however replace the stud as soon as possible. I would not know the difference between a 4 speed crossmember and a 5 speed one; that is the one that was fitted as we bought it. Yes the bolts you refer to are M10’s, I just found it easier to install as I did not have a tool to compress the doughnut rubber. I guess I can replace them one by one with M12’s now that the alignment is sorted. The M10’s are the same lengths as the ones I removed.
2. To Charles; If you are referring to the speedo drive mounted on the Gearbox, that is the way we bought it. If you need it I can remove it and give it to you as I am using the TC for the speedo drive. I checked the speed reading against a GPS and it is spot on. I did however break off two of the wires on the Vehicle speed sender (2112-3843010-30) but it does not make a difference when driving; it might influence fuel consumption?
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Jan 14, 2013 17:26:00 GMT 2
Put joiner nuts in the mounting studs. Looks great. Nice and clean. Charles Hi Charles, sorry for being stupid, but what is joiner nuts? Darrel, it is effectively a long nut, about 2 to 3 cm long, any nut and bolt shop should have them, just ask for m8 joiner nuts and 3mm thick washers as they are a smaller diameter than the nylocks you have on there now
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darrel
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Post by darrel on Jan 14, 2013 17:45:26 GMT 2
Thanks Ihar, I will get some!
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Ventzel
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Post by Ventzel on Jan 14, 2013 19:45:30 GMT 2
Hi Darrel,
If you have a chance use only factory bolts M12 and nuts for the rubber doughnut. Every mg is important there for balance of the intermediate shaft and vibrations; sometimes even a thin 0.1 mm shims-washers are used there as a weight (I can't imagine how much weight this shim - probably not more than a flea). The 6 bolts are identical but the 3 nuts which face the gearbox are 3 mm longer than the other 3 nuts which face the transfer box.
The nuts with nylon inside do not need washers and spring washers for the doughnut.
V.
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Post by Charles on Jan 14, 2013 19:49:01 GMT 2
Hi Darrel.
Thanks for the offer. Might take you up on that at a later stage. Just want to see how my plans progress.
Charles
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Jan 14, 2013 20:54:36 GMT 2
Hi Darrel. Thanks for the offer. Might take you up on that at a later stage. Just want to see how my plans progress.Charles aaaaaaaaaaaaaah, don't give anything to Charles!! It will begin with a nut or bold, but he won't stop untill he has your house, your car, your credit card and your wife (and any doughters if you've got them) I know, because there are plans to get over here to Belgium to empty my stock storage in order to get all my stuff to SA. I believe Dimitris from Greece is also coming along ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Post by Charles on Jan 14, 2013 21:25:35 GMT 2
Jan and also your beer!
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Ventzel
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Post by Ventzel on Jan 14, 2013 21:30:07 GMT 2
Ha, ha, Jan,... Sorry I didn't know you from before. I spent a good time in Belgium in 2009 but seems you appeared in Locsa later.
V.
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darrel
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Post by darrel on Jan 15, 2013 5:58:44 GMT 2
Jan would you mind if I join Charles and Dimitris?
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Jan 15, 2013 18:43:27 GMT 2
How about collecting a MG at the same time?? ;D
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darrel
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Post by darrel on Jan 15, 2013 19:26:15 GMT 2
My Gearbox guy re-checked the TC Alignment and the Propshaft nicking the Gearbox Crossmember and he says that I need spacers between the TC Mountings and the Chassis. I bought the car without them but he says that the nicking problem will be solved if I have them in. So, does anyone have a manufacturing drawing for the spacers (2121-1801044) or have two lying around doing nothing?
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Jan 15, 2013 19:44:34 GMT 2
James as 4 of them, but they all in use, could possibly remove to make drawings, but his are home made, let me know if you want us to go that route.
Tjeers
Steve
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darrel
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Post by darrel on Jan 15, 2013 19:44:48 GMT 2
As far as the Vehicle Speed Sensor (2112-3843010-30, Round Plug) goes, I found in Turbonutter’s Fuel Injection Service Manual (page 2-12) that if the speed sensor is not installed, a code 24 will be provided by the ECU and that it is "useful in checking speedometer accuracy". This makes me think that by not having a Vehicle Speed Sensor installed on the TC will not make a difference in performance or fuel consumption. What do you guru's out there think about this? I got a quote for £20.00 plus Shipping and Customs from Ladapower but if not really required I can go without it.
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darrel
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Post by darrel on Jan 15, 2013 19:53:57 GMT 2
James as 4 of them, but they all in use, could possibly remove to make drawings, but his are home made, let me know if you want us to go that route. Thanks, that is certainly an option but if I can have the thickness it will help a great deal then I could try and manufacture them myself. I noticed that there are two versions; the 1st having a QTY of 4 (2121-1801042) and the 2nd having a QTY of 2 (2121-1801044), I suspect that I need the QTY 2 version. Please note that I am an Electronic type but have some/limited mechanical skills but I do know some Mechanical types!
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Post by Charles on Jan 15, 2013 20:00:49 GMT 2
I hope Ronnie will comment as he has made spacers in the past. Just can remember the details.
Charles
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Jan 15, 2013 20:15:18 GMT 2
there is not one 1700 with spacers in all of europe. With that i mean Niva 's with a cv between gear box en transfer box. This can't be the problem. The transfer box must be tilted
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Post by ronnie on Jan 15, 2013 21:29:51 GMT 2
How about collecting a MG at the same time?? ;D Hi Spikes It is well guarded. Ronnie
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Post by ronnie on Jan 15, 2013 21:57:57 GMT 2
Hi Charles
I made some spacers when I was trying to cure vibrations. I am not really sure if they helped or not as they were in and out a number of times. I am not sure if I left them in or not.
Ronnie
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Post by ronnie on Jan 15, 2013 22:05:36 GMT 2
My Gearbox guy re-checked the TC Alignment and the Propshaft nicking the Gearbox Cross member and he says that I need spacers between the TC Mountings and the Chassis. I bought the car without them but he says that the nicking problem will be solved if I have them in. So, does anyone have a manufacturing drawing for the spacers (2121-1801044) or have two lying around doing nothing? Hi Darrel I doubt if spacers would be the correct route to cure your problem. the amount of spacers required would be substantial, and that is not the purpose of spacers to start with. They are for alignment, and I note what Ventz has said in this regard. Ronnie
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Post by marius on Jan 16, 2013 7:45:12 GMT 2
I believe Darrel is talking about the adjuster plates - these can be DIYed from any 2mm flat bar. There should also be shims on each corner between the body and the adjuster plates of about 1.5mm thickness. That should leave adequate space to prevent the front prop shaft from touching.
Marius
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Post by ronnie on Jan 16, 2013 10:58:55 GMT 2
Hi Marius
If I am understanding this correctly, and there is no vibration at present, then surely if you put shims under the mounting to cure the clearance, you will put the GB and TC out of alignment and introduce vibration ?. It is always difficult when you can`t see the car but I think there is something else wrong.
Ronnie
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Jan 16, 2013 11:48:21 GMT 2
thats because there are no nuts on the TC mountings. The TC can move in it's brackets. I think Jan is right about your problem. The TC is moving sideways on its mountings. Ari
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Jan 16, 2013 12:29:15 GMT 2
I concur.
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Post by marius on Jan 16, 2013 22:09:08 GMT 2
If you guys study the above pick carefully you will notice that the following additional parts are clearly missing: 1. The adjuster plate indicated by the green arrow. 2. The shim, which is the shiny bit sticking out at the top of the adjuster plate, indicated by a red arrow. With these parts in place the TC would automatically be lowered to the correct position to allow clearance for the front prop shaft which I think is the main issue at the moment? Marius
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Post by Charles on Jan 16, 2013 22:58:22 GMT 2
I need a set of those.
Charles
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Post by ronnie on Jan 16, 2013 23:07:25 GMT 2
Hi Marius
That is the shims I assumed was being discussed. As far as I am aware they are used to align the Gearbox / Transfer case to correct vibration. If these were required to correct the prop shaft touching the crossmember this would indicate to me something wrong with the body mounting points. IE distorted due to damage ?. If you read the post from Ventz he states none of the 1700`s in Europe were fitted with shims. I think the missing nuts from the side of the mountings are not helping. I made shims for mine and in or out I had no problems with clearance of the prop shaft. I notice in one of Darrel`s photos of the T/C the mountings are hard against the mounting studs. This is a problem I also had and it is impossible to align the T/C until this is corrected. Like this the Layshaft is effectivly too short to allow the adjustment to be in or close to the centre of the slot. I made a spacer to fit between the layshaft and the gearbox output shaft flange as this was the only way I could get rid of the vibration and be able to get enough adjustment on the slots. It is on a thread somewhere. I also remember one of the Australian members had the same problem. Hope this helps.
Ronnie
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Jan 17, 2013 8:43:40 GMT 2
ok, once more ;D : - a gearbox/transfer case allignment with a CV has NO NEED for spacers, shims or what ever - ALL PARTS must be in place, also BOTH nuts holding the TC in his brackets - The brackets MUST be flat on the car floor, don't put any small shims between it as indicated by marius' red arrow. In time it will damage the car floor. If you want to put something there (no need to), only use the factory spacer plates concentrate on the 2 10mm nuts on the brackets. make sure they are BOTH there and make sure you can tighten them good. When you loosen the nuts, the tc can be turned (tilted is the correct Englisch word??). Turn it a bit forward as the arrow indicates and fix the nuts. The nuts will hold the TC in place. If allignment is not ok then, check your engine mounts edit: i just noticed that your gear box mounting is sitting on an extra 'someting'??
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Post by marius on Jan 17, 2013 9:08:31 GMT 2
My Gearbox guy re-checked the TC Alignment and the Propshaft nicking the Gearbox Crossmember and he says that I need spacers between the TC Mountings and the Chassis. I bought the car without them but he says that the nicking problem will be solved if I have them in.So, does anyone have a manufacturing drawing for the spacers (2121-1801044) or have two lying around doing nothing? My answer is directed towards the above post made by Darrel and more specifically in relation to his nicking problem . Apart from the missing nuts on the TC mountings It is also clear from his picture that part number 2121-1801044 is also missing. That standard part is known as the adjuster plate. My car also came brand new with 4 spacers as standard - one at each corner post. None of these spacers has caused any damage to the body of the car in well over 12 years, but I suppose they could if not fitted properly. Lowering the TC with the appropriate parts would solve his nicking problem. Marius
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Post by Charles on Jan 17, 2013 10:08:13 GMT 2
I think Jan found the cause of his problems.
Charles
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