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Post by Charles on Nov 5, 2012 23:15:26 GMT 2
Also what plugs are fitted? Attachments:
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Nov 6, 2012 6:01:47 GMT 2
Was the air filter replaced with the service? If not, a blocked filter has a huge impact on fuel consumption
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Post by sparky on Nov 6, 2012 9:14:55 GMT 2
i recently did 236 km on R4oo-00 petrol (from empty) with 3 passengers including a full days playing at melkbos 4x4 and fuel gauge is now showing quarter tank
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damian
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Post by damian on Nov 6, 2012 10:12:27 GMT 2
Thanks Charles, Sparky..
I will check the plugs a bit later on. The airfilter was replaced.
Not sure about the degrees/timing I will phone and ask him a bit later. I don't think he did a compression test.
D
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damian
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Post by damian on Nov 6, 2012 10:13:46 GMT 2
My last three fill ups have been at the 150km mark.
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Post by sparky on Nov 6, 2012 10:29:36 GMT 2
My last three fill ups have been at the 150km mark. that was roughly my problem when i got the lada, chucked the original carb and fitted a weber 32/36 also check your tire pressures, believe it or not but that makes a helluva difference on these cars fuel consumption
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damian
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Post by damian on Nov 6, 2012 10:34:07 GMT 2
I have thought about changing to a Weber.. But then again I have also considered converting to fuel injection. I reckon I should make sure it isn't anything else before I go ahead and do either.. Obviously the latter being a MUCH bigger task.
Quite a few people have said that converting to fuel injection won't help fuel consumption but I say .. If it means I get more than 150km on a tank then I would be perfectly happy.
Any thoughts?
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Post by sparky on Nov 6, 2012 10:55:11 GMT 2
if i remember correctly the lada comes with single point injection not multi point, those spi systems are more trouble than what they worth
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Post by ronnie on Nov 6, 2012 11:15:01 GMT 2
Hi Damian
There is something wrong as you should easily get 300+ on a tank. I have used both the original and a Weber 32 / 36 DVAG and I would like to think the Weber was the best. In reality there is little to chose between them. Your consumption should be in the region of 10 to 11 l / 100kms. Perhaps your right foot is very heavy ;D.
Ronnie
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Nov 6, 2012 11:16:28 GMT 2
if i remember correctly the lada comes with single point injection not multi point, those spi systems are more trouble than what they worth I beg to differ. I have not had any fuel related problems in the almost three years that I've had the NIVA Most problems reported on forum were deterioration of the vacuum pipes leading to the MAF
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Post by damian on Nov 6, 2012 11:33:07 GMT 2
Thanks all! Ronnie, 300+ would be glorious. My right foot is unfortunately not heavy at all.. I wish it was that.. then I would have some what of an answer. Spikes.. I didn't thank you earlier when you asked about the air filter.. Sorry I just saw the S and thought it was Sparky.. So thanks. Might I ask what your fuel consumption is? I am guessing your Lada is SPI? If there is a difference of even 60km per tank between SPI and Carb then that might even be enough to convince me to convert. But I obviously won't rush into doing anything silly. Someone even suggested that I get a newer engine (they suggested a 1.6 Toyota engine) but this cost a WHOLE bunch more and even then I don't know what the consumption would/could be. That is kind of drastic. D
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Nov 6, 2012 12:46:24 GMT 2
Check your wheel alignment as well, and the tyre pressure gauges at the petrol stations aren't too accurate. Check the pressure yourself.
Ari
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Post by spikes on Nov 6, 2012 13:22:57 GMT 2
10 Km/l average open road. Off-road mostly 2nd and 3rd with the odd bit in 4th, 8 to 9km/l
The TBI was introduced to the Lada range for EU compliance with emission regulations.
I do not think you will be able to justify conversion to injection on a fuel saving.
Tyre pressure on my NIVA is 1.8 bar
Is the thermocouple in the intake pipe of the airfilter opening fully.
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Post by marius on Nov 6, 2012 17:08:33 GMT 2
Hi Damian I don't think anybody has mentioned this before, but have you checked all the fuel lines for a possible leak? You most probably did that already and smelled the fumes by now but it's just a thought? I can almost smell your frustration Marius
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Post by damian on Nov 6, 2012 21:08:12 GMT 2
Hi all, Thank you again for all the ideas. I will definitely get the wheel alignment checked.. I just haven't gotten round to it yet as I have just started a new project at work (and I work for myself so I give myself very little free time But will try get to that tomorrow and I want to get an engine compression test done. I will double check tire pressure too. I have checked fuel lines for leaks and when I took it in for a service they didn't find anything either. Spikes, to be honest I have no idea about the thermocouple.. probably because I have never heard of the word thermocouple before. But I shall find out asap. Please forgive my noobness. Hope to get this sorted out soon.. Apart from this she is going so well. Thanks again, D
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Post by hoodoo on Nov 6, 2012 21:10:25 GMT 2
The later models are all MPI (sequential injection - Bosch). My 1.6 averaged 26mpg, and my '03 MPI averages 30mpg. It will do better, but not the way I drive it! Regards, John.
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Post by damian on Nov 6, 2012 22:38:41 GMT 2
Oh my if I could get numbers like that it would be glorious.. bur I fear that is a little out of my reach.
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Post by spikes on Nov 7, 2012 6:45:16 GMT 2
Hi Damian
Thinking about the thermocouple again, it should NOT affect the fuel consumption as it only changes the opening where the opening air enters the air filter.
Spikes
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Nov 7, 2012 8:44:44 GMT 2
Hi Spikes
Your arrow and the picture are on different pages.
Ari
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Post by spikes on Nov 7, 2012 8:47:04 GMT 2
Hope this is better The coupler sit in here. It directs hot or ambient air into the Air cleaner Spikes Attachments:
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Nov 7, 2012 8:48:49 GMT 2
Perfect
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Nov 7, 2012 8:51:25 GMT 2
Hi Spikes Your arrow and the picture are on different pages. Ari My previous post deleted. Thanks Ari!
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Post by hoodoo on Nov 7, 2012 20:58:23 GMT 2
Why do you guys still use that summer/winter coupler? Mine was removed straight away so that it drew permanent cold air, and ran a lot better than when drawing hot air. The only drawback I experienced was carb icing on misty days, but that was a case of stopping and switching off for a couple of minutes, then it was fine for the rest of the day. I've set the MPI to draw air from outside the bonnet, as I did on the 1.6, and that's working well. Not criticising as I presume there must be climate vagaries over there, but the system was totally unecessary over here, regardless of season. Regards, John
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Post by ronnie on Nov 7, 2012 21:39:15 GMT 2
Hi John
I also threw it away. It is not necessary in South Africa either.
Ronnie
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Post by hoodoo on Nov 7, 2012 22:05:28 GMT 2
My 1.6 also ran without a thermostat, again regardless of seasons. Took care of any off-road overheating problems, and still kept me warm in winter! When I sold it to get the '03 one, it had just over 125000 miles on the clock, and was running well. New owner got it stuck in the middle of a gorse fire, but we salvaged diffs, gearbox, t/box and several other things, and they're still running on other Nivas! Tough little things! Can't do the 'stat thing on the '03 because of the computer! Regards, John
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Post by Charles on Nov 7, 2012 22:32:11 GMT 2
I would never run a car without a thermostat.
Charles
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Post by ronnie on Nov 7, 2012 23:01:41 GMT 2
I would never run a car without a thermostat. Charles Hi Charles I am with you there. I would only remove it to get me home. Ronnie
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Post by damian on Nov 8, 2012 12:17:00 GMT 2
Hi all,
Just trying to sum up all that could be causing my consumption to be so terrible:
I should check:
Wheel alignment Tyre Pressure Compression Test Check again for petrol leaks Double check that the timing was set
Anything else that would cause me to get 150km on a tank and not 300+?
Thanks,
D
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Post by spikes on Nov 8, 2012 13:42:03 GMT 2
Hi Damian
Do not trust the NIVA fuel gauge. It is terribly inaccurate unless you calibrate it yourself. Two ways to test fuel consumption. Note Odo reading. Fill up the NIVA do it personally and stop the pump at the first "Auto-stop" Drive a set distance of at least 100km refill at the same refuel point using the same pump and same auto-stop then calculate consumption. Second method. Note Odo reading From empty tank put in exactly 10 liters take 10 liters with in a container, drive till the 1st 10 liters is finished Note Odo reading. Calculate consumption
Good luck
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Post by damian on Nov 8, 2012 13:56:02 GMT 2
Hi Spikes, I have noticed that the gauge is far from accurate.. When I make a sharp turn left if goes up to almost full and a sharp turn right makes it go all the way down. I have contemplated only turning left but I fear this wouldn't solve anything. lol I have been working it out by recording distance traveled/number of liters of petrol bought over a number of fill ups. It is almost exactly 5km/l so from what I understand it is basically half what it should be. D
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