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Post by marius on Nov 25, 2010 17:53:27 GMT 2
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Post by ronnie on Nov 25, 2010 18:14:56 GMT 2
Hi Marius
I think a simple tab lock washer will give every one peace of mind. Also the 5th gear was there in 1996.
Ronnie
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Post by marius on Nov 25, 2010 18:38:43 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie You are right I should have said "around" 1997 Anyways it is clear to me that they made a huge mistake with the spring washer and it was rectified soon after. Just a pity no one told us about it Here is a pic of the spring washer... Regards Marius
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Post by marius on Nov 25, 2010 18:40:42 GMT 2
Anybody knows where I can get a tool like this?
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Post by ronnie on Nov 25, 2010 19:09:24 GMT 2
Hi Marius I suppose this is what you are looking for ;D. It is made in UK by Kennedy. I bought it from an industrial supply company in the kempton park area that I used to buy drill bits etc from. There name evades me at the moment ,when I remember I will let you know and you can phone and see who is a dealer in your area R80 two and a half years ago. double plunger so it also sucks. Holds 500 mls. Ronnie
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Post by ronnie on Nov 25, 2010 19:14:18 GMT 2
Hi Marius
It may be the picture but that does not look like the washer on mine. I will look tomorrow and see if I have something similar in my collection. It is very strong and after you torque it it compresses very little.
Ronnie
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Post by marius on Nov 25, 2010 19:37:23 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie
Yes please I would be very interested in a tool like that - it was quite difficult for me to get the 140 oil into the diffs.
You mentioned yours had teeth - which I believe is the same as the one I bought from Jan.
Regards Marius
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Post by ronnie on Nov 25, 2010 20:58:46 GMT 2
Hi Marius
The teeth on the washer were in both directions and was more like a "serrated" washer, it really was not a spring washer as such.
Even the 140 oil went in in two twos very easy. If I don`t remember the companies name I will make a phone call to get it. I would have thought they would be easy to get.
Ronnie
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Post by marius on Nov 25, 2010 21:09:55 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie Sounds like Jan's washer. Would be great if you can find something on the tool Regards Marius
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Post by ronnie on Nov 25, 2010 21:36:26 GMT 2
Hi Marius
I will phone tomorrow and get the name and no of the company.
Ronnie
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Post by ronnie on Nov 26, 2010 11:03:58 GMT 2
Hi Marius
Have phoned but I can only get the no on Monday. The company is called Saftec. The Kennedy part no is 540038.
Ronnie
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Post by marius on Feb 21, 2011 17:00:31 GMT 2
Hi all
Many suggest the use of GL-4 spec oil that is supposed to protect the yellow metals in the box and I am currently using this spec oil in the box.
I can not think of anything in the box that is actually made from copper/brass or any other yellow metal. The selector forks are coated with some sort of yellow dusting - but the actual selector is made from cast iron.
Are there any other yellow metal parts in the GB that I am not aware of?
Regards Marius
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Post by marius on Feb 21, 2011 20:39:20 GMT 2
Hi all
There is one yellow metal part that escaped my mind - the baulk ring on the gears!
So I guess GL-4 would be good. Autovaz recommends GL-5 spec and I have used a certain GL-5 oil with very good results over a period of 10 years.
I also have a DIY spacer on the reverse/5th gear selector rod - but I guess no other Lada in SA has been fitted with one of those. It only came standard a bit later.
Regards Marius
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Post by Charles on Feb 21, 2011 20:49:32 GMT 2
Hi All A bit off topic sorry. This is the best place I could think where this would fit. Did you guys know if you can get your hands on a fiat 124 sppedo drive you can drill thru the standard gearbox casing and fit it to box. Will be handy for somebody doing a 2wd conversion. The part in red can be drilled out. Just some useless info. Charles
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Post by ronnie on Mar 7, 2011 15:50:01 GMT 2
Hi Marius
I have only just noticed you asked how to replace the bolt adjacent to the starter. Before you bolt up the gearbox to the rear mounting use a very long extension (or two), a knuckle and then put the bolt head in the socket with prestik. It is easy now to thread it over the gearbox into place and tighten. 2 minutes work.
Ronnie
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Post by Charles on Mar 7, 2011 15:57:17 GMT 2
Marius just tape you knuckel up with insulation tape. Its still flexible, just prevents it from flopping around.
Charles
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Post by ronnie on Mar 7, 2011 18:56:17 GMT 2
Hi Charles
I assume you put yours in the same way as me. I forgot to mention about the knuckle. I have two, one is tight and one is slack.
Ronnie
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Post by Charles on Mar 7, 2011 19:56:49 GMT 2
Ronnie i think it will be the same. Otherwise it is useless. Charles
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Post by marius on Mar 7, 2011 20:03:15 GMT 2
Thanks guys for the response - I will give it a shot
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Post by Charles on Apr 1, 2011 16:12:40 GMT 2
Does anybody have a couple extra syncro springs lying around?
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Apr 1, 2011 16:32:39 GMT 2
What did you break?? seems you didnt evenget to the race stage.
Ari
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Post by Charles on Apr 2, 2011 13:19:46 GMT 2
Jumping out of 3rd...
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Post by Charles on Apr 2, 2011 13:31:57 GMT 2
Ari the bearing are noisy. As you know they are avalible aftermarket but not the syncro springs. Charles
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Post by Charles on Apr 25, 2011 22:25:02 GMT 2
Has anyone replaced the bearings in their box with the local avalible bearings? What is my chances of getting the box out with the tc in place? Does anyone have a syncro spring for me?
Charles
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Post by marius on Apr 26, 2011 8:13:52 GMT 2
Hi Charles
You should get all the bearings locally - except for the needle bearing which you can get from either Mike or Ventz. I think Danie might have replaced his with local bearings?
Life will be much easier if you remove the TC as well. Is the spring broken on the 5th gear?
I am sure Ventz would be able to supply you a spring or two.
Marius
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Post by Charles on Apr 26, 2011 8:17:49 GMT 2
No 3rd gear. Well I'm sure its the spring. Will remove it today (without any jacks) and strip it next week.
Charles
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Post by marius on Apr 26, 2011 8:21:46 GMT 2
That sounds like the spring. I would open the bottom plate first just to see whats up but be careful with a broken spring as it can get tangled with some other components and cause some damage.
A cheap trolley jack can be useful in removing the TC and the box.
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Post by Charles on Apr 26, 2011 8:25:21 GMT 2
I have had the bottom cover off but no signs of the spring. Will strip the bos and do a proper job.
Charles
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darryn
Veteran Niva Petrol Head
Ruchnoy Protivotankovyy Granatomyot
Posts: 713
Registered: Mar 5, 2010 21:50:09 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
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Post by darryn on Apr 26, 2011 8:40:37 GMT 2
I've taken the box out before while leaving the TC in place- and put it back with the renault's jack and some bricks. But I'll never do it like that again
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Post by ronnie on Apr 26, 2011 9:48:24 GMT 2
Hi Charles
Do yourself a favor and remove the T/C. It makes the job so much easier. When you are working yourself a trolley jack and a ratchet tie down are perfect to replace the gearbox. Use the tie down to hold the G/B on to the trolley jack at the right angle and it will pop onto the splines easily. I am old and weak and it was easy ;D
Ronnie
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