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Post by marius on May 19, 2010 8:41:04 GMT 2
Hi Darryn
Trying to force it off is not a good idea. Ronnie's suggestion is the best way and it should come off easily. You can use the nut again by switching sides.
Regards Marius
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Post by danie on May 19, 2010 19:51:59 GMT 2
Hi Darryn
It will be interesting to know how long it took to get the parts since your original order.
Please let us know.
Regards
Danie
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Post by darryn on May 19, 2010 20:12:46 GMT 2
Hey guys
Thanks Danie- I will take the diff out on saturday. I was expecting a huge effort to get the hub nuts off, but it's very good news that it seems pretty simple. I paid for the LadaWorld parts on 10 May and they will be ready for collection tomorrow (so says the EMS lady).
Peace Darryn.
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Post by darryn on Jun 2, 2010 21:53:34 GMT 2
OK- Slow going, as usual. The good news is that I now have the intermediate shaft I needed (thanks Mike). So I am reassembling the interior now as quickly as I can. I got underfelt and rubber for the floors. One thing I'd like to know: the steel bulkhead that rises from the floor (behind the front seats and directly underneath the back seat) to the lid of the fuel tank recess, which is normally covered by just a thin layer of vinyl- would it be a bad idea to cover this wall with underfelt? I can't put this magic, warm stuff on the firewall behind the dashboard because of a risk of electrical fire, so is there a chance that it could cause static electricity right next to the fuel tank and thereby cause my Lada (probably with me in it) to explode into an epic ball of flames? This would not be a favourable situation for me. Are there already anti-static coatings on the fuel tank? It would be great to not have to listen to the fuel swishing away behind me. Here is a pic of what the underfelt looked like at the end of last week. As you can see, I blocked up the cavities at the front wheel arches because those plastic panels were wrecked. It'll be interesting to see how I figure out a way to make it all look neat (as I have no idea myself). But, I know it will look acceptable when I' m done. I have scrubbed components in the most unlikely of places- the car is really really starting to shine on the inside. Another thing I noticed about the body of the car, which I'm interested in finding out about other vehicles, is that whilst in the right-hand drive format, the driver's side is quite a bit narrower than the passenger side (at least 70mm). Surely other car manufacturers change the shape of the body shell and not just drill a couple of holes, thow a mold of a mirror-image dashboard and steering box? It is these little quirks that might infuriate other people that really make me like my Lada more. Sure, my foot catches on the door frame because my legs are to long, and my shoulder touches the window- just leave it open! We can all learn something from the utilitarian approach to design that the Russians have. Be kind to animals. Darryn.
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Post by danie on Jun 3, 2010 6:30:35 GMT 2
Hi Darryn Good to know that everything is still on track......I was getting worried when we didn't hear from you for a while.
Regards
Danie
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Jun 3, 2010 8:59:37 GMT 2
Hi Darryn
I also noticed that the right side is narrower the other day, figured it was because the engine and drive line are offset to th right. The probable reason for this is to balance the lada with only the driver inside and also possibly to create more room on the left side of the engine for the brake and clutch main cylinders and the spare wheel.
I've heard that on right hand drive ladas the right front shockmounting breaks first due to the extra loadind and the spring sags also on the right front side, and then the left front is therefore not as loaded.
Ari
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Post by ronnie on Jun 3, 2010 12:03:03 GMT 2
Hi Darryn
Your under felt looks good. I have finished mine recently as well. I put a double layer of felt back to front including petrol tank. You will have no problem, cover it all. ;D. If you had a leak felt or no felt the fire would be the same.I have also done away with the side panels, and especially on the passenger side you gain a lot of leg room. Check this photo the plastic trims touched the rubber floor mat.
Regards
Ronnie
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Post by ronnie on Jun 3, 2010 12:09:36 GMT 2
Hi Darryn Forgot to add the photo and modify post does not allow you to add the photo Regards Ronnie
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Jun 3, 2010 12:32:32 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie Side panels, what side panels? Or did you remove mine also? Ari
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Post by ronnie on Jun 3, 2010 15:03:57 GMT 2
Hi Ari
If somthing is missing or different I suppose you can blame me.Yes I did remove them, and before you ask I do not know where they are ;D
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Jun 3, 2010 15:09:44 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie I don't blame you for anything, it's just that my lada has so much extra stuff and also so much MISSING stuff that I am sometimes a little lost when it comes to certain things, that all. Ari
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Post by ronnie on Jun 3, 2010 15:14:14 GMT 2
Ari you can always depend on me for help ;D
Regards
Ronnie
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Post by Hercules on Jun 3, 2010 19:05:46 GMT 2
Hi Darryn.
It is nice to see your Lada is coming on alright. The under felt is looking good.
Regards.
Hercules
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Post by darryn on Jun 3, 2010 21:21:27 GMT 2
Hey Ronnie- that looks really good, the way the felt holds the contours. I decided that I'd make the final covering in the car 4.5mm rubber. The original mats are ripped to shreds, except for the one that spans the width of the car in front of the back seat- although I won't put it back in because the surfaces don't match (I'm fussy that way).
I used our expensive auto body filler at work today and I filled in the substantial cavities in my dashboard to cure overnight. The sharp and rough edges will have to be abraded with sandpaper, but I think it will look alright. Of course, I'll have some serious inconsistencies in surface texture (!!!!!) at eye level, but the guys at Graf Korvet said that they do not make right hand drive dashboards anymore, so I have to make the one I have last.
Ari, those side panels are really awful. I thought of reinforcing mine with fibreglass because they're in such bad shape, but I've already made too much work for myself. The resin would more than likely attack the plastic anyway. What I am going to do is stick under felt to the side panels that cover the back wheel arches so that they don't rattle so much. Maybe in the future I'll make new custom side panels from fibre glass, but the originals will do for now.
Hercules, one of these days I'll come visit you and show you my progress, but I'd also like you to have a look at my carb and show me how to play with the mixture setting etc.
Thanks dudes.
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Post by ronnie on Jun 4, 2010 9:15:47 GMT 2
Hi Darryn
If the front face of your dash board is OK have a look at what I did with mine in General / Renovations. You probably missed it. There is also a pic of the carpeting in mine. If you need any info on how the dash top was done let me know.
Regards
Ronnie
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Jun 4, 2010 16:34:20 GMT 2
Hi Darryn
If you know how to work with fibre glass why don't you start making right hand drive dashboards and sell them to the rest of us. I'm sure that many people would like a better /newer one.
Ari
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Post by darryn on Jun 19, 2010 19:41:46 GMT 2
Today I finally got the front seats in and just about everything at the front is assembled, except for the glovebox insert. For the life of me, I could not figure out which way it fits back in. The one way does not allow space for the vent arm to go above it, and the other way does not allow the dashboard itself to meet the cross beam that supports just about everything important when it comes to instrumentation, wires, vents etc. It was very perplexing. So I left it out. But that's ok because there is a lot of work that has to be done with the wiring. I replaced the fusebox with blade fuses, but it is not nearly as neat as the old box, as the wires are fed from the sides and not from behind. Also, the hooter does not work, no brake lights and no headlights. It's a problem, but I'll get that seen to.
The interior is starting to look very cool, but the restoration job I did on the dashboard is not what I wanted it to be. It sucks actually. So I might just cover it in fur (lekker zef) or do what ronnie did. Or I might just bend a plate to cover the top- luckily we have bending brakes and guillotines at the workshop to do it nicely. I'll take picture of all this tomorrow and post it.
But there were 3 Bafana Bafana vs Uruguay moments today.
Uruguay goal 1: The oil seal on the back of the gearbox. The inside of the transmission tunnel was a mess when I got the car, and thought it might be the oil seal because of the welded CV joint debacle. But I had no idea it would be that severe. Oil streams out of the output shaft and sprays in all directions when the transfer case is in gear. I'm sure on a longish journey I could lose at least 20-30ml of oil from here. Is it possible to replace this seal/bearing while the box is still attached to the engine?
Uruguay goal 2: The outlet and inlet pipes for my heater were bypassed, like most SA ladas, but it was a poor job. The pipe was bent on itself and could not allow a free flow of water. If Jan did this job (which I was told, he did) then it's mind blowing. Instead of one continuous 16mm pipe, the middle piece was 25mm pipe with a smaller piece of 16mm pipe jammed in at either end so that the pipe would fit snugly on the inlet and outlet pipes. Daft. At first I decided to insert a spring into a single piece of 16mm pipe to keep the pipe open, like a stent used to keep arteries open, and although the spring was the same diameter as the inlet/outlets, I decided not to do it (rust, risk of dislodging and destroying my engine). So I bent a piece of 16m round tube in a very small radius (and to be careful not to deform it) and used it as a bridge between two pipes. The water is now free to flow, but straight after I did this mod, the engine refused to idle, and was very rough. I'm stumped.
Uruguay goal 3: The clutch. Or lack thereof. I refilled the gearbox (after having drained it again having filled it with EP90 GL4 because I didn't read the small print on baxter's site), and the diffs too. I did this because I expected to bleed the clutch, put the car in gear and drive away. I got the hydraulic pressure back, but for nothing, it seems, as the gearbox is behaving like an old crash 'box. I'm gonna cry if my clutch is properly messed. I didn't get time to check the clutch control mechanism, but when I reinstalled it I put it in a pretty neutral position . So from the feel of the pedal, I have pressure and the clutch should engage, but it doesn't. I'm quite worried about this.
I'll post again tomorrow evening.
Peace.
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Post by marius on Jun 20, 2010 8:46:16 GMT 2
Hi Darryn Bafana did have a bit of a shocker Some thoughts on what might be the solution - >>Is it possible to replace this seal/bearing while the box is still attached to the engine?<< Unless you have a small puller that can slide in the splines of the shaft - probably not. You will probably have to take it off with your clutch problem anyways >>the engine refused to idle, and was very rough.<< You could have pulled the wire from the cuttoff selenoid on the carb? >>as the gearbox is behaving like an old crash 'box<< It can be a lot of things - but your release bearing could have gone? Also check if the high and low is not actually in the neutral position. Just guessing here Marius
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Post by darryn on Jun 20, 2010 8:48:04 GMT 2
Thanks mate. I'll check all the above.
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Post by ronnie on Jun 20, 2010 10:12:57 GMT 2
Hi Darryn I see you are also having plenty little problems to try your patience . The glove box insert has two recesses for the hinge when closed. These go to the bottom front. I don`t think you can get it in with the main dash in place. Electrical:- Start at the fuses and work your way through checking for power. When you changed the fuses watch as some are bridged on the input side, and if these links are missed out things won`t work. U1 I have not replaced this seal before but I would use a screwdriver and hammer and lever the old seal out. ( by now all bent and buckled).The Bearing I am sure, you need the box out . U2 A lot of people blank off the heater but I do not like having things which do not work. Fix it by getting a new valve or fitting a tap under the bonnet. (there is a post somewhere showing this by Hercules I think).On my lada half inch copper plumbing fittings fitted perfectly. I agree with Marius as the idle valve wire is so easy to knock off. U3 Check you don`t have far to much clearance at the clutch slave cylinder. Hope some of this rambling helps you. Regards Ronnie
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Post by marius on Jun 20, 2010 10:34:21 GMT 2
Hi Darryn I'm no auto electrician - but I also think your electrical problem is most probably just blown fuses. Ronnie's screwdriver method will work - but you might still need a puller - it's quite a tight fit. AND get that heater working again - a real blessing on cold days like this Marius
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Post by ronnie on Jun 20, 2010 11:36:28 GMT 2
Hi Darryn and Marius
Hopefully you will be lucky like me, both output flanges on the Transfer box pulled off by hand after a light tap with a hammer ;D. Will keep my fingers crossed for you.
Regards
Ronnie
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Post by ronnie on Jun 20, 2010 11:41:47 GMT 2
Hi Darryn
Another thought, perhaps when you replaced the fuse box all the wiring is now stopping the glove box insert fitting into place as no doubt you have moved the wiring about.
Regards
Ronnie
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Post by darryn on Jun 20, 2010 18:39:33 GMT 2
Thanks guys! I forgot my camera at home today, so no photos.
Marius, you're a legend. Thanks, it was the wire for the idle valve. I was so relieved!
The wires are in such a messy tangle that they're no where near the cavity for the glove box. I found that there was a logical place for the insert to go, but the walls on the side jut out so that the dash can't be anchored on both top and bottom. And unfortunately all the fuses are intact. I'll get that sorted out by my autolek step-brother.
I'll do the clutch control mechanism clearance tomorrow and report back.
Thanks once again guys.
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Post by marius on Jun 20, 2010 19:08:11 GMT 2
Hi Darryn
<<I was so relieved!>> I know the feeling ;D
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Post by danie on Jun 29, 2010 18:41:19 GMT 2
Hi Darryn
We haven't heard from you lately, so I guess your Lada is up and running and you are now enjoying the Lada and you completely forgot about all your tjommies on the Forum ? . ;D
Regards
Danie
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Post by darryn on Jul 1, 2010 22:11:07 GMT 2
Hit my blerrie data cap again! My wife says it's because I'm on this site so much! Expect a big update tomorrow night.
Laters.
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Post by ronnie on Jul 2, 2010 11:21:23 GMT 2
Hi Darryn
I know how you feel, I keep getting the comment "are you on that thing again" ;D
Regards
Ronnie
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Post by darryn on Jul 3, 2010 23:49:37 GMT 2
Here is a picture of the cabin pre-revamp.
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Post by darryn on Jul 4, 2010 0:03:38 GMT 2
And here is a picture of what it looks like now. There are still a couple things that need doing, but those are minor details. I removed the front shafts and the front diff today. Tomorrow I will clean and assemble everything and put them back piece by piece this week. The ball joints on my front suspension are so stiff they felt like they were almost seized, so I will grease them too. The front shocks are stuffed. I guess I'm going to have to save and get new ones? Any ideas? The discs also require skimming, but I'll do that by hand with an angle grinder (with a sanding disc) at the workshop. I'm deadly with an angle grinder... Take care. Darryn.
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