spikes
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Post by spikes on Jul 4, 2010 8:16:15 GMT 2
Hi Darryn Rather have the discs professionaly measured and scimmed (if they can take a scim) Regards Spikes
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Post by marius on Jul 4, 2010 9:31:21 GMT 2
Hi Darryn Your interior is picking up nicely I would also take up Spike's advice unless...but it can be a costly mistake. Regards Marius PS - Blitzkrieg
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Post by danie on Jul 4, 2010 9:36:00 GMT 2
Hi Darryn
I also think skimming a disc with an angle grinder could be very risky. If there are any high spots on the disc, the brakes will shudder, and the brake pads will get worn very soon.
Using a grinder to get rid of an outside ridge on a brake disc might work though..........
Regards
Danie
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darryn
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Post by darryn on Jul 4, 2010 9:48:41 GMT 2
I'm going to take less than 1mm off the outside ridge. I hope no one is thinking I'm going to grind the whole thing!
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Post by ronnie on Jul 4, 2010 10:07:06 GMT 2
Hi Darryn The inside looks great, and I bet you have enjoyed doing it . The ball joints on mine are very stiff and they are new!. I thought they were responsible for the crack I had occasionally when going very slowly on full lock. I removed them all sprayed a small amount of WD 40 repacked with grease, and only get a crack once in a blue moon now . Looking forward to seeing more photos . Regards Ronnie
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Hercules
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Post by Hercules on Jul 4, 2010 11:53:12 GMT 2
Darryn the inside look very well and it look you enjoying your self.
Regards.
Hercules
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darryn
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Post by darryn on Jul 14, 2010 21:59:19 GMT 2
Well, good news: RPG is 97% ready for roadworthy.
My swaer helped me fix the electrics on the vehicle. Truthfully, he didn't really help me, because he did it all on his own. I'm lucky I have this kind of resource, because he's saved me a ton of money so far. I now have all lights (except one of the number plate lights) and a half-working hooter. All he wants in return is custom-made tools, which shouldn't even take me 30min to make!
Enough boasting. More about the half working hooter... Does anyone know how this system works? Swaer tells me I should just install a pushbutton hooter where the choke cable comes out of the dash. I've butchered my dashboard enough, so I don't really want to pursue this option. The problem is not really the wiring of the device, but rather connections. If you've ever seen the underside of the steering wheel assembly there is a ring that serves as the connection of this part of the circuit. The high beam/indicator/wiper stalk assembly that lies directly underneath it has a wire and lug that is anchored by a copper rivet. I was told that my hooter issues stem from this connection (plus a shoddy relay near the front of the car) and the brass rivet and the ring on the underside of the steering wheel. If I've managed to make sense and there are indeed little attachments that need to be found/bought/made to help with this connection, please let me know. I really, really don't want a pushbutton hooter.
I put 50mm insulation on the cracks of the plastic body panels that line the back wheel arches and sides of the car, and then decided to put the tape along all the fold lines and create a rib structure. Boy oh boy did it work well- the tape absorbs a lot of the vibration sent through the panels. I'll photo this tomorrow. What I'll also do tomorrow is line these panels with underfelt as well, which will further absorb vibrations and dampen sound from the outside of the vehicle.
I lined up the transfer case (again) after I replaced the oil seal on the gearbox (no oil coming out anymore!!!) and there is less vibration than the first time I did it. But... This is only in the first three gears, however. When I engage 4th and 5th there is a perceptible vibration from the TC. When I test drove the car like this, I could only go fast enough to engage 3rd gear because I was driving in a residential area, and the TC felt quite smooth- the last time I aligned the TC it vibed like hell in 2nd gear. So, I parked it with the TC in neutral and engaged all 6 gears (incl. reverse) and found that the first three gears were fine, but 4th and 5th weren't as good. 2nd gear pops out when the revs drop after a blip in the throttle- is this normal? Is it acceptable that there is a vibe in these higher gears or should I do it all again and really take my time about it? Also, there is no dust boot for the clutch control arm, which I'm thinking could be a problem for the roadworthy. I was thinking that I could get away with ordering a fiat 124/8 dust boot at the parts shop?
It feels really good after 3 months to have a Lada that doesn't leak anything, that has fully operational lights, a smooth engine and reasonable drive train. Pity about the gearbox though, it sounds like a washing machine full of gravel.
Be good all you Lada people!
Laters
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Post by danie on Jul 15, 2010 5:57:30 GMT 2
Hi Darryn
The gearbox seems to be due for some attention as well - sorry about this bad news.
The 2nd gear is not suppose to pop out, and the "washing machine full of gravel" noise makes me think that some of the bearings might be worn. On my Lada there is no noise at the gearbox at all..........
Regards
Danie
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Post by lada & korean parts on Jul 15, 2010 6:30:50 GMT 2
you have checked oil level? and remember to o/fill by 500mls
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Post by marius on Jul 15, 2010 15:31:27 GMT 2
Hi Darryn The gravel sound can be due to the above. Your U joint intermediate shaft would be prone to some vibration - but not anything real bad. The hooter - the 4 screws at the back tends to come loose after a while (I can recommend Loctite here ;D) Disconnect the bty first. Make sure all 4 screws are tightened equally - in order to pull the hooter mechanism straight on the steering wheel. In other words the play should be the same on both sides (L&R). Tip: install the actual hooter on the inside of the engine compartment next to the radiator (you will see a hole on the left side). Your hooter will last much longer. I think Ari made some mod on the clutch - in the tech thread somewhere. Probably in the Aftermarket thread. Looks like you are making real progress Regards Marius
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darryn
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Post by darryn on Jul 15, 2010 18:40:26 GMT 2
C'mon people, do you think I've learned nothing?... Sheesh... The gearbox has 1.8l of Valvoline 75W80 in it. It sounded much much worse when I got the car, so the oil level has made quite a difference. I'll put the hooter inside the engine compartment, thanks for the good idea Marius. My next story: The roadworthy centre seems a bit lenient, so they'll let me go through without a hooter, a decent sized crack on the passenger side of the windscreen and a slightly perished left back tyre (not that I'm complaining about this). Here's the rub: the back brakes are not acceptable. We could see through the little opening on the inside of the drum that the shoes/lining are still ok, but aren't these drums self-adjusting? How do I make them more efficient? I haven't read up much about the pressure regulator, but will it make much of a difference if I adjust it? Can it be adjusted that much that it would make a difference? I saw an article on Baxter's site, and I'll take a look. But do I need to remove the outer cover of the drum? I tried knocking it off with a hammer (gently) but realized that the case is aluminum and it's not wirth the risk if screwing it up. Any takers?
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Post by ronnie on Jul 15, 2010 19:11:15 GMT 2
Hi Darryn They are self adjusting unless they are seized. Make sure the hand brake is adjusted to 3 clicks and see if this improves the brakes. Make sure they are bled nicely as per the manual and remember the front calipers have 2 bleed screws. I know you have already done all this ;D. A question how is the hand brake? Once you have your RWC life is so much easier Adjust the rear pressure regulator as described in the manual and check under the brake thread where I posted recently so you don`t have the problem I had. I`m sure any way you are not as stupid as me. At least I can make you laugh Regards Ronnie
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Post by marius on Jul 15, 2010 19:25:15 GMT 2
Hi Darryn
The noise from the gearbox could also be the release bearing on the clutch. If it is getting worse it will most likely be a bearing.
If you don't have a puller - on the drum you will notice 2 bolts and 2 extra holes in the drums. Undo the 2 bolts and screw them into the 2 extra holes. Do them evenly and the drums should come off.
Sometimes you will need a lot of effort before the drum will come off. Your pressure regulator is probably rusted - like the one Ronnie got from Hercules.
Regards Marius
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darryn
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Post by darryn on Jul 15, 2010 19:47:07 GMT 2
Thanks dudes! But I'm not as smart as I look Ronnie! Thanks anyway... I did bleed the brakes as "to the book" as I could, but I did it all on my own (using a mirror and a very long bleeding tube so that I could see what was happening). This means that I could not tighten the nipples with the pedal depressed- will this have had the effect of stunting the brakes' performance? To my reasoning, depressing the pedal while tightening the nipples causes the hydraulics to pull back for greater clearance of the pads/shoes. I didn't think of this as a big deal, but I'm probably mistaken. And I'll adjust the handbrake like you said Ronnie- thanks! I'll try the bolts tomorrow Marius. Thanks once again for all your help so far guys. Laters.
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Post by marius on Jul 15, 2010 20:46:08 GMT 2
Hi Darryn You can bleed it on your own - but you waist a lot of brake fluid that way if you do it correctly - but my dear man you can certainly make better use of that short hard hitting female of yours ;D Make her feel part of it all - women love that ;D Geeze man - do we have to teach you everything
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darryn
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Post by darryn on Jul 15, 2010 21:24:14 GMT 2
Ha ha ha ha!!!! I'll rope her in... I'll inform her of her reputation of menace on the forum- she should get quite a kick out of that!
Goodnight dudes.
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Post by lada & korean parts on Jul 16, 2010 3:24:18 GMT 2
valvoline......YUCK......no wonder it's noisy...........
1700 were self adjusting,1600 weren't
if non gen cylinders are fitted,could be problem shouldn't be able to squeeze ends in together
as Ronnie said,no more than 3 clicks on h/brake this keeps brakes adjusted.
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Post by danie on Jul 16, 2010 5:43:45 GMT 2
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Post by ronnie on Jul 16, 2010 9:09:16 GMT 2
Hi Darryn
I always bleed the brakes myself. Just make sure the end of the tube remains covered in fluid. If you want to keep the pedal down when tightening the nipple, I am sure you can find a long enough screwdriver to fit between the pedal and the underside of the dash. If not cut a piece of wood.
Regards
Ronnie
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darryn
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Post by darryn on Jul 16, 2010 13:39:18 GMT 2
Geez, I've seen a couple of articles now where guys DIY repairs on their Ladas and to see how much grass/mud/salt/rust they allow to linger on their suspensions and it is quite an eyeopener. In comparison, Ronnie's Lada looks like a "polished once a week" Bentley. Thanks for the pointer Danie.
Bandwidth permitting, I'll let you all know how it goes.
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Post by ronnie on Jul 16, 2010 14:01:21 GMT 2
Hi Darryn When you are retired you have all the time in the world to get the vehicle to look like new. I must admit I have always been fanatical about the looks of my vehicles. The Landy I sold was 13 years old had done 350000km much of it through the bush and was like new. Look after what you have worked hard for. Regards Ronnie.
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darryn
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Post by darryn on Aug 1, 2010 14:15:28 GMT 2
Well kids, it's been a long road, and the beginning of another, new road starts on Wednesday. RPG got roadworthy papers this week and is in the process of being licensed in my name (which I had to get police clearance for). I'm so excited I can hardly sit still!
The last two weeks I have tied up a couple of details, like making a new bracket for the battery and new straps to hold down the spare tyre, putting the inside body panels back in. I covered the insides of these panels with underfelt and it quietens down the whole lada experience.
I also went to the gearbox/diff specialists down the road and got them to inspect the gearbox and despite some obvious "challenges" it is facing, they were upbeat about it's chances of survival. I will have to save up about R3000 to get the 'box overhauled, which seems to be a fair price. I'll get the bearing kit from mastersport and that will keep prices down. Or maybe I should get hold of the PMB rusky and ask him for advice. In the meantime I'll change the oil from the valvoline that Andy just loves so much, to Castrol BOT 130, which apparently is a stunning oil that should help the syncro problems I have on 2nd and 4th gear. This aint a cheap oil, but while I limp the gearbox along I'll do whatever I can to cause as little further damage as possible.
Also, there is a howl that builds as the vehicle speeds up. I'm pretty sure it's the original knobblies I have on at the moment, but could this be the front diff? Would it make a howling/humming noise that corresponds with the speed of the vehicle or would that kind of sound from struggling bearings be different?
I also designing a parcel shelf for the passenger side (RPG came without these) and a smaller one like Ronnie's for the driver side, but these will be made from a steel plate which will be bent in a bending break (or you can make one in your vice at home- I'll show you how). I'll put the cutting sizes and angles and bending sequence (because it gets tricky) in pdf format if anyone else would like to try it. Also, because I'm not crazy about how my dash restoration came out, I've designed a folded cover too. I'll also make this available.
... Always keep it real, and remember... I'm watching you... (raises an eyebrow).
Darryn.
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Post by marius on Aug 1, 2010 14:43:43 GMT 2
Hi Darryn (again!)
Twice in one day I recieved good news from you - congrats on getting RPG-7 on the road.
If you're going to replace bearings - it would be wise to replace the needle bearing (linking the two shafts). Not a local bearing but you should get it from the dealers. Might in the end be the only one that needs replacement. The bearings in both boxes are quite solid in my experience and opinion.
The howl is 99% from your tyres - the other 1% could be your front wheel bearings or the CV's.
Keep it real...post some pics ;D
Marius
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Post by marius on Aug 1, 2010 15:09:38 GMT 2
Darryn (nog een) The new oil might make a difference. The following might sound and look silly but it works. My previous neighbour once gave me this tip. Take a thin piece of wood/plank no more than a meter in length. Put the one end of the stick on your ear (not in) and the other on the area where the bearing is working. A broken bearing makes an uneven grinding sound. Note the keyword "uneven" It can also be nearby where a bearing is working. For instance you can, whilst someone else is driving slowly, test your bearings in the gearbox by putting it against the gear lever. Don't do this in rough terrain Do the same on the TC. I would also go underneath the car and turn the doughnut (neutral) a few times to feel and listen for any roughness. I'm always a little weary of these specialists - they like expensive Whiskey
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Post by ronnie on Aug 1, 2010 17:10:37 GMT 2
Hi Darryn Glad it`s on the road at last. . When I bought the original Lada it was delivered with a set of knoblies. The road noise was so bad it nearly drove me crazy. I could not get the set of conti tracks I had already paid for fitted quick enough Ronnie
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Aug 1, 2010 17:16:35 GMT 2
Yip its the nobblies I also have a set and they are noisy
Ari
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Aug 1, 2010 18:58:53 GMT 2
Hi Darryn Well done!! Spikes
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Post by danie on Aug 1, 2010 20:26:44 GMT 2
Nice reports Darryn - a couple of pics would be very nice too.
Regards
Danie
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Hercules
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Post by Hercules on Aug 1, 2010 21:24:46 GMT 2
A really nice report and very happy that the Lada is back on the road. Enjoy it every time you drive it and feel happy about the fact that you've done it.
Regards.
Hercules
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darryn
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Post by darryn on Aug 30, 2010 17:21:18 GMT 2
Hey guys
I've been driving the Lada to work and back for the last 3 weeks and I've been waiting to pick up any smaller problems.
The shims I put on the doughnut really worked well, although I've not really had the time to realign the TC. The vibrations have not been nearly as bad.
I played with the carb on friday because the engine was idling unevenly. I have the weber carb conversion. I assume the little screw at the bottom of the carb on the driver's side is the screw for the fuel mix. I turned this in and out until the sound of the engine sounded "right" and more even. I also sprayed carb cleaner into the fuel pipe inlet and made a mistake. I figured out afterwards that there is a brass screw that turns out and gives better access to what I assume is the float chamber. By shoving the little pipe for the carb cleaner into the fuel inlet, I pierced the tiny filter plunger that sits in this passage. I'm not sure whether I'm explaining it right, because I have almost no clue what is what on a carb. When I took this filter out I found pieces of rubber from the fuel pipe as it has perished considerably. The relevance of this dawned on me when I started up the Lada today. It was idling worse than before friday. I'm pretty sure that a piece of rubber must have slipped through the hole in the plunger. This does not seem like good news for the jets- what's the likelihood that they now stuffed? Does anyone know how much abuse they can stand?
Also, I drove to Johannesburg yesterday and came back today- the first trip I've had in the Lada longer than 25km one way. The transmission tunnel became flippen hot. Bear in mind I replaced the original insulation with underfelt, so it's not the world's greatest insulator. But I also remember that when I took delivery of the Lada, that the temperature was very high. I can rationalize it like this: either the (little) vibration on the intermediate shaft is causing more friction in the gearbox and TC than what is normal, or it is the really out of shape bearings in the gearbox. I could not feel much of a temperature difference between where the TC sits and where the gearbox sits- the whole thing was blazing hot. The ashtray on the end of the transmission tunnel cover was almost too hot to touch.
Other than that, the only drama was last week when the accelerator cable snapped on the highway. Thank God I decided to leave the choke cable in the dashboard, as it sin't coupled to the carb. I attached this to the throttle and it worked pretty well.
I promise to post some pics soon.
Laters.
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