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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Apr 17, 2010 9:40:58 GMT 2
Hi Darryn
I'm running 215/85 Conti's without problems and my father ran 205 General's for 5 years with out probs. It's all about driving style.
Ari
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darryn
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Post by darryn on Apr 17, 2010 23:16:59 GMT 2
Yeah, it's bollocks- the whole "wind-up" problem that would break a diff would not be from tyres with too much grip, but rather from too much torque/power coming from the engine. And seeing as I don't have a juicy V8 under the hood, I won't sweat it too much. I took out the clutch slave today and found that it has been worked on before, and not been reassembled properly. There was no spring and no dust cover (which some people might not think is important, but why include it in the design if it were superfluous?) and the pipe is perished to hell. So I got a piston set from the spares guys next to our workshop (for 50 bucks) and I'll have to get a pipe at Centurion Hydraulics this week. Here's a sequence of pics.
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Post by darryn on Apr 17, 2010 23:18:33 GMT 2
This should work for a while
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Post by darryn on Apr 17, 2010 23:21:35 GMT 2
Here's the latest revision: body stripped of rust and sprayed, bleeder de-rusted.
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Post by darryn on Apr 21, 2010 22:56:09 GMT 2
Howdy everyone. Help needed: The CV joint housing from the gearbox has been welded on to the input flange on the Transfer case (and it's not a great weld, by the way). Why on earth would anyone do something like this? The high/low range lever does actually work- though it will only move with a sharp jolt. Is this H/L phenomenon normal? I have read that some Lada owners have a bit of "difficulty" shifting from high to low and back again- what are the common causes of this? There was no boot covering this CV joint (surprise surprise). Sigh. Apart from that, the gear selection and inner workings of the case seem alright. I'll clean the outer casing and see where the oil is leaking out- because this thing is caked in oil. Oh- and I didn't think of clamping the doughnut before I took the box out- so I'll fab a clamp tomorrow at the workshop. At least both flanges are still attached to the flex coupling, so it's not damaged - I hope. This whole layshaft/ CV joint/ flange assembly will have to replaced- if you look at the next picture you'll see the inner race of the CV joint as well as nut holding the flange has been worn away (there was no plug over that nut). It's flippen mess. I'm not sure what would possess someone to weld those parts together from a mechanical point of view. Maybe they did it because the necessary parts were too expensive when the original parts failed? And remember, research shows that at least 30min of physical exercise everyday prolongs good health. So get under your Lada and take out your Transfer case on your own, everyday. Be good Darryn.
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Post by darryn on Apr 21, 2010 22:59:44 GMT 2
Mooi- baie mooi.
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Apr 22, 2010 8:41:14 GMT 2
Hi Darryn
At one point the studs holding the input shaft to the tansfer case on my lada came out due to vibration. And it is kind of painful as every thing works but the is no drive to the wheels. This could have happened regularly to your lada so they attached it permanently.
The h/l gear change gets better the more you use it. Try what Ronnie says by using low to reverse.
Ari
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Post by ronnie on Apr 22, 2010 9:09:08 GMT 2
Hi Darryn The H/L lever should be as easy as the main shift. I would imagine the more you use it the better it will get providing there is not a problem to start with. As far as the flange goes ,at least you know there are no bolts to work loose . The biggest problem with the transfer box is when you have no axle stands and then you need to wrestle the box onto the jack under the Lada as there is not enough clearance to push it all under at once. Bought new stands last week as the originals went missing during the move to the coast. Regards Ronnie
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Post by darryn on Apr 25, 2010 18:25:19 GMT 2
Someone did something stupid. If you take a careful look at the stud pattern on the CV body that is welded to the TC input flange, you'll see that it has six holes and not four. I removed the rest of the layshaft and what I saw shocked me. A VW CV joint had been welded on the layshaft flange. It is not even welded in the dead center of the flange. No wonder the car had vibrations worthy of a barefoot hippy. So, thankfully, the TC is fine and all I have to do is replace the layshaft. On Tuesday I'll get stuck into the front diff and see what's going on there. I'm waiting on a large sum of cash that will enable me to actually replace stuff on the Lada. Until then, I'll just be taking stuff off and seeing what has to be fixed/ replaced/ etc. In the picture you'll see quite clearly the VW/Audi logos on the (completely disintegrated) boot of the CV joint. Laters Darryn.
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Post by marius on Apr 25, 2010 18:37:14 GMT 2
Where and when will you be getting that large some of money?
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Post by ronnie on Apr 25, 2010 18:57:17 GMT 2
Hi Marius and Darryn
GOOD QUESTION
Regards
Ronnie
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Post by darryn on Apr 25, 2010 19:07:54 GMT 2
I did a location shoot in the Natal midlands for a relatively big investment company, and I underestimated how long it takes to get money out of big corporates. So, hopefully I'll be rolling in it by next friday.
Oh well, things will happen as they happen.
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Post by marius on Apr 25, 2010 20:40:52 GMT 2
This is a HIJACK NOT... Did you ever see the local movie "The Silent Fall"? A Niva was the main vehicle used during the shoot. Not a bad movie too. END OF HIJACK ...NOT ;D
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Post by danie on Apr 26, 2010 7:45:49 GMT 2
Interesting mod, but poor welding / workmanship..............hopefully not done by an Agent.
Danie
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Post by darryn on May 16, 2010 20:03:48 GMT 2
Well, I have been quiet, because said money took a long time to materialize.
But, now I have bought an intermediate shaft and front diff from Mike (the house doctor) and as soon as the parts arrive I will be underneath the car installing them.
Last saturday I got the engine going again; I had to call my mechanic maestro brother to get this done, because I did a pretty poor job of putting everything back together after I did the service (granted, it was my first time). I mixed up the firing order and didn't attach some of the earthing wires- pretty embarrassing stuff- and the engine roared into life after 5 weeks of awkward silence. According to my brother the engine is in very good nick, considering the abuse meted upon it. The valve gear is a bit noisy, apparently, despite joe and I sorting out the clearances.
I've re-covered and assembled the driver's seat (pictures to follow tomorrow- it looks really cool) and I have replaced the fuse box with blade fuses. I will attach the boxes on their newly made plate to their brackets as soon as I put the underfelt on the firewall. I will then also cover the floors with 4.5mm rubber. I've washed EVERY nook and cranny in the car. Even down to the locks that hold down the back seat to the side of the car have been removed and washed. There was dust everywhere- but no more.
The cover for the fuel tank was derusted and repainted. I got a whole set of original Lada tyres (plus spare- all for R1800) in good condition. The rims had some rust which I stripped, and were resprayed gloss black. I've gotta say, it looks pretty darn swell. The windscreen has also been patched up. I went to the roadworthy centre across the road from the workshop, and the tester said that "the tester can use their discretion" as to what an unworthy windscreen is- provided their are no cracks directly in front of the driver. So the two pretty big cracks in the screen will get through. This let me breathe a massive sigh of relief.
I also ordered the ceramic brake pads from LadaWorld in Denmark. Hopefully they'll arrive this week. I might have to have the discs skimmed, but that's not priority No.1 right now. The car at least has to move without two guys pushing it. I also need some advice on what I should use to restore the dashboard because the leatherette is just not working. I enquired in the aftermarket/mods thread.
So, that's what's been going on.
Be good. Darryn.
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Post by danie on May 16, 2010 21:58:13 GMT 2
Hi Darryn
Stupid question, but is your Lada a 1600 or 1700cc model ?
According to Mike's (House Doctor) ad the parts for sale are from a 1600cc model. The diff ratios on 1600 and 1700 cc models are different, so if your Lada is a 1700 model the front diff could probably not be used.
Regards
Danie
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Post by darryn on May 17, 2010 6:21:36 GMT 2
Oh boy. No. No no no no no no nooooooooooooo!
I have a 1.7
This is seriously bad news. I really hope I didn't spend all that money for nothing.
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Post by ronnie on May 17, 2010 9:06:02 GMT 2
Hi Darryn Providing the face of the dash is OK you can cover the top as per my previous post. I will include another photo in case you missed it. To cover the dash with unsupported vinyl is beyond the DIY person. On my top i put M5 bolt and nut through the panelite and secured it with hot melt glue. This gave me studs to fix it to the existing after I had covered it Regards Ronnie
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Post by ronnie on May 17, 2010 14:57:33 GMT 2
Hi Darryn
As far as i remember the Fiat 128 windscreen is the same as the Niva. I am sure some one will be able to confirm or correct this.
Regards
Ronnie
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Post by danie on May 17, 2010 17:56:35 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie
If the Fiat 128 windscreen fits, I think windscreen suppliers like Glasfit might know..........
Regards
Danie.
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Post by danie on May 17, 2010 19:03:05 GMT 2
Hi Darryn
I probably ruined your day with my comment regarding diff ratios on different models. Sorry about that...........
This is the different gear ratios on the different models:
1. 1600 with 4 speed gearbox : crownwheel 43 teeth, pinnion 10 teeth. 2. 1600 with 5 speed gearbox : crownwheel 41 teeth, pinnion 10 teeth. (I think this will be the ratio on the diff you bought from Mike) 3. 1700 with 5 speed gearbox : crownwheel 43 teeth, pinnion 11 teeth.
Just remember that the different gears cannot be mixed or matched (a 41 teeth crownwheel - probably fitted in the diff you bought from Mike, will not mate up with a 11 teeth pinnion in the 1700 diff, etc. etc.)
Everything is not doom and gloom though. I think the first step would be to strip the "new" diff, and to count the gear's teeth. It would make sense to have a proper look at all bearings and oil seals anyway...........
Please do not hesitate to let us know once you have more details.
Regards
Danie
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Post by ronnie on May 17, 2010 19:49:35 GMT 2
Hi Danie and Darryn
The windscreen in mine is SABS FY Laminated plenty nos but this looks like part no 43R-001566 Hope this helps
Regards
Ronnie
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Post by Hercules on May 17, 2010 21:01:56 GMT 2
Hi All.
Jan does not keep windscreens as it is a Fiat 128 Windscreen. This was confirmed by Michelle when I was enquiring about a windscreen about a year ago. It is available at all leading windscreen suppliers.
Regards.
Hercules.
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Post by danie on May 17, 2010 22:49:20 GMT 2
Hi Darryn
Just to explain the difference between the different diff ratios:
1. 1600 Lada with 43 (crownwheel), and 10 (pinnion) teeth: The ratio is 4.3 : 1 - which means the pinnion needs to rotate 4.3 full turns to generate 1 full turn of the crownwheel. 2. 1600 Lada with 41 (crownwheel), and 10 (pinnion) teeth: The ratio is 4.1 : 1 - which means the pinnion needs to rotate 4.1 full turns to generate one full turn of the crownwheel.
3. 1700 Lada with 43 (crownwheel), and 11 (pinnion) teeth: The ratio is 3.9 : 1 - which means the pinnion needs to rotate 3.9 full turns to generate one full turn of the crownwheel.
This clearly shows that different diff ratios on the same car is not a good idea at all. A mixed ratio on the same car will add continuous extra stress on the Transfer Box - in fact, most components in the drive line.
Regards
Danie
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Post by marius on May 18, 2010 19:50:47 GMT 2
Hi Danie
The diff ratio thing is quite interesting - would never have thought! Similar ratios on the rear diff?
WINDSCREEN - PG Glass has it in stock for around R3300.
Regards Marius
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Post by danie on May 18, 2010 20:40:17 GMT 2
Hi Marius
The front and rear diff ratio on each different model are exactly the same.
A different ratio combination on a Lada might work for a while, but this is not advisable at all. The Transfer Box will definately be under more stress - but even more important, engaging the Transfer Lock would be looking for serious trouble !
Should the Transfer Lock be engaged, there is a huge possibility that something in the drive line will simply break. That's because the front and rear wheels are forced (locked) to rotate at different speed. In theory, one set of wheels will try to move the car forward, while the other set of wheels will try to slow the car down !
Regards
Danie
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Post by darryn on May 18, 2010 22:31:05 GMT 2
Thank you all very much for the wise words, and for dowsing last night's "freak out".
I spoke to Mike and to Joe, and I will go ahead with the 1600 Lada diff- and here's why: I panicked and approached this from the wrong angle. From what I've been told by Joe- and I'm sure everyone will agree- to break the crown and pinion gears would require an effort of colossal stupidity. So I'm betting that these very important parts of my diff are alright. What I'll do is scavenge the other bits from the 1600 diff and rebuild my own with said parts. Which still leaves the possibility that my crown and pinion gears are shot- and then I'm snookered.
When this news broke, my first actual thought was for my Transfer case- after studying the manuals again and again for the last three months I clicked a while back that when the T/C is locked, every component has to be working optimally. The diff, so to speak, would have come in through the back door, and the transfer case would leave through the front door- in grand style. So I managed to grasp this concept on my own, which I'm pretty chuffed about!
I'm now very far past being in over my head, but so far I've done OK, and basic mistakes barred (like mixing up the firing order in the engine and wondering "ag nee, wat de donner gaan nou hier aan?"), I'll be able to get it working.
I went to PG glass a while ago, and asked for a quote and also heard "R3300". That's ludicrous. I'll trawl as many scrapyards as possible from Musina to cape Town to find a windscreen before I buy from those pricefixingcartelgoldenhandshakefromoutinsurance turds.
The really good news is that my brake pads cleared customs yesterday and will be ready to be fetched from the postoffice on Thursday. I can't wait! I get to be first at trying something out! (let's hope it works)
Another thing. I need tips on how to remove the hub nut on the front wheels. Will keeping the wheels on the ground with the brakes applied keep enough grip to enable to me to turn the nuts off? I need to replace CV boots, and service them while I'm at it. And I'm going to have to skim the discs myself. I'll show you when I'm done. I aim to have the upholstery and matts/rubber installed by the end of the weekend. The upholstery looks so rad- I can't wait to show it off.
Thanks once again guys.
Peace Darryn.
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Post by danie on May 19, 2010 6:39:07 GMT 2
Hi Darryn
I don't want to tell you what to do, but I fail to understand why it would be stupid to break (strip) the diff before installation.
Guessing that the oil seals, bearings, gears, and other components are in good condition, could be a definate recipe for future disappointment, and extra work - removing the diff again.
Fact is, the diffs are extremely easy to work on.........if you prefer not do to re- set the backlash on the gears yourself , just take the diff to a company who specialize in diff rebuilds. It should not cost you more than one hour's labour.
Regards
Danie
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Post by marius on May 19, 2010 8:32:06 GMT 2
"pricefixingcartelgoldenhandshakefromoutinsurance turds" couldn;t have said it better myself
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Post by ronnie on May 19, 2010 8:35:13 GMT 2
Hi Darryn
Don`t know how you are suppost to take the nuts off but I sharpen a screwdriver to suit on the grinder and hammer it up the groove to open the nut enough to turn it off easily.
Regards
Ronnie
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