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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Jun 7, 2010 10:38:30 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie
Some bugger nicked my K&N then, the bas*%$@.
Ari
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Post by danie on Jun 7, 2010 20:03:35 GMT 2
Hi Ari / Ronnie
I always change my Lada's engine oil after 5000 kms - even with the long oil filters. Personally, I will never go as far as 10 000 km with mineral oils - even with the best quality available...........just a personal choice.
On the Focus (full synthetic) , I replace the filters at 5000 km because of the smaller filter size, and change the oil only after 10 000 kms.
On the motorcycles (mineral), I change oil and filters every 5000 kms.
Regards
Danie
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Post by lada & korean parts on Jun 8, 2010 1:54:08 GMT 2
most people don't change oil for 10,000kms (as per owners manual) but some people use poorer quality oil & should be changed at 5,000kms,filter at 10,000.
i'm the same as Danie,i did oil changes on the niva at 5,000....but it was because i never did the kms in it,took abaout a year + to do that.
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Jun 8, 2010 8:01:26 GMT 2
Hi Andy
When you say oil changes every 5000km do you also mean the boxes and diffs? because I also only do -+4000km a year.
Ari
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Post by marius on Jun 8, 2010 9:28:22 GMT 2
Hi all
I change engine oil and filter every 10 000km or once a year using a good quality mineral oil.
Oil NEVER loses it's viscosity and only due to combustion in the engine the oil gets dirty and needs to be changed at regular intervals.
UNLESS you do a lot of water crossings - in theory - you would never have to change the oil in the boxes.
However it is good policy to change the oil in the boxes at least every 30 000km.
regards Marius
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Post by danie on Jun 8, 2010 17:34:12 GMT 2
Hi All I always change the Diff, Gearbox, and Transfer Box oil every 10 000 km. This might perhaps be an "overkill" or bad habit - but I would rather stick to that. Just after I bought my Lada I changed all oils - almost got a heart attack when I saw the condition of the old diff oils......... Regards Danie
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Jun 8, 2010 18:03:41 GMT 2
Hi Danie
I'm going to do a major service at 140 000km for all oils , filters etc. Just to be on the safe side.
Ari
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Post by ronnie on Jun 8, 2010 18:59:34 GMT 2
Hi All
As Marius says you should be able to go 30000KM between diff and gearbox oil changes providing there was no chance of water contamination. I would play safe and change these oils at 20000KM or perhaps at 2 yearly intervals if your KM`S are low. I have been toying with the idea of changing to Synthetic oils, but this will generate a lot of negative comments I expect. Also this is the wrong area to obtain something like that. I even battle to get GL5 oil. As far as the motor goes I think 10000KM is fine as long as it is done in a reasonable time say max 7 months. Other wise do a 6 month oil change,
Regards
Ronnie
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Hercules
Veteran Niva Petrol Head
Lada - your peace of mind to take on the world's vast landscapes.
Posts: 785
Location: Gauteng
Town: Benoni
Registered: Oct 2, 2009 11:55:41 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
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Post by Hercules on Jun 8, 2010 19:16:04 GMT 2
Hi All.
I change my oil every 10000km which is about every 9months. With the service I change all filters and top up gearbox oil and transfer and diff oils. I change the drive train oil every 3 years and use Castrol 75w90 GL4 oil.
Regards.
Hercules.
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Post by marius on Jun 8, 2010 19:19:27 GMT 2
Hi all
PS - I'm not knocking a 5000km oil change at all - including the boxes at 10 000km - if you can afford it great!
Regards Marius
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Hercules
Veteran Niva Petrol Head
Lada - your peace of mind to take on the world's vast landscapes.
Posts: 785
Location: Gauteng
Town: Benoni
Registered: Oct 2, 2009 11:55:41 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
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Post by Hercules on Jun 8, 2010 19:39:40 GMT 2
Hi Maruis.
I used to drove a Colt 2.8TDI with oil service intervals every 5000km, and the bakkie were running long distances, and had to do the oil changes every 6-7 weeks, oil filter and 9.5lt oil and every 3 months diesel and air filters. That just got to much and very expensive.
Regards.
Hercules
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Post by ronnie on Jun 8, 2010 20:56:42 GMT 2
Hi Hercules When I had the business I had a Diesel Hyundai also with 5000km service. It was clocking up 5000km every 10 days all was fine till we over run by 2000km. When we collected the vehicle the invoice stated Guarantee Canceled. . To make matters worse we eventually traded it in for a new Landy. while waiting for delivery the motor seized and cost us about R5000 . sometimes you can`t win. Regards Ronnie
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Post by lada & korean parts on Jun 9, 2010 1:30:37 GMT 2
yes,30,000kms is recommended for all other oils.
just remember to overfill gearbox by 500mls.
castrol vmx (or vmx-m) if you can get it for g/b & t/c 85/140 for diffs & we use penrite 20/60 for engine.
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Post by marius on Jun 9, 2010 18:29:18 GMT 2
Hi all I spend most of the day replacing the oil in the boxes. That 85/140 diff oil is quite bugger to get into the diff from those 500ml bottles - I'm used to the 80/90 Anyway I can report that the DIY copper spacer I fitted in the gearbox is still there despite using the GL5 spec oil Andy - perhaps you can tell us what the part is actually for (2101-1702084-10). I believe it is a spacer that prevents excessive wear on the 5th gear selector fork when shifting gears No trace of any yellow metal residue - however there was some metal residue on the magnet but that is probably all the new gears etc just settling in nicely - I hope ;D Regards Marius
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Post by lada & korean parts on Jun 10, 2010 8:33:06 GMT 2
? never heard anything about that? ?? that part number is for a reverse selector shaft bush
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Post by marius on Jun 10, 2010 19:37:34 GMT 2
Hi Andy
The part fits on the 5th/reverse gear selector rod just behind the selector fork. This part was not fitted in my gearbox so I DIY'd it.
If it's a spacer/bush it should prevent something from doing something. Just thought you knew it's purpose.
I'm quite sure it can prevent wear on the selector fork - esp now that I replaced my gear oil and I found no yellow metal residue using GL5 oil. I fitted a brand new fork.
Regards Marius
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Post by marius on Jun 11, 2010 14:45:18 GMT 2
Hi Andy I checked again - the part I'm referring to is on the 5th/reverse selector rod - just behind the fork. Here is a pic from my parts manual.
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Post by lada & korean parts on Jun 12, 2010 2:09:03 GMT 2
mmmmm,the plot thickens...... that's definetly a 5speed box,but our 1600/1700 parts cats don't show it for some reason,only in the 4speed
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Post by marius on Jun 13, 2010 19:43:05 GMT 2
Hi Andy The plot thickens even further with this pic from another parts manual indicating parts numbered 7 and also 10 and 11 as 5th/reverse selector rods!? Marius
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Post by lada & korean parts on Jun 15, 2010 6:09:59 GMT 2
10 & 11 are same as 16 & 18,but supplied as assembly
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Post by marius on Jun 22, 2010 20:33:17 GMT 2
Hi all
I have been told by - you know who - that it's not possible to resleeve the master/slave cylinders with stainless steel. Apparently Hydradrive in Cape Town does it.
Has anyone tried it before - and who else can do it in the Gauteng/North West area?
I am sure most good engineering shops should be able to?
Regards Marius
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Post by danie on Jun 22, 2010 20:58:32 GMT 2
Hi Marius
There are a few companies countrywide who specialize in resleaving brake and master cylinders, and I am quite sure it could be done on Lada components as well.
It might be worthwhile trying the Yellow pages - I guess one could just phone any "Clutch and Brake" Company. If they don't do resleaving themselves, they should be able to supply contact details of a specialist.......
Regards
Danie
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Post by marius on Jun 22, 2010 21:08:27 GMT 2
Thanks Danie
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Post by lada & korean parts on Jun 23, 2010 1:50:34 GMT 2
has been done here,but usually works out MUCH more expensive than buying new.
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Post by marius on Jun 23, 2010 8:38:42 GMT 2
Hi Andy The situation is very different over here. Five years ago I paid more than R600 for a "genuine" brake cylinder. Today the Fiat Uno replacement cost the same - needs a small mod. You can resleeve in Cape Town for less than R150 - AND it should last a life time. The Fiat Uno replacement is one of three versions - unfortunately couldn't get hold of a "pirate" version on this one The replacement "genuine" Lada part had a very rusty look on the outside when I got it - probably the reason why it didn't last too long. Bleeded it at least once a year. I will post pics later. Regards Marius
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Post by ronnie on Jun 23, 2010 9:41:37 GMT 2
Hi Marius
It does not pay the agents to say you can re sleeve as they would then lose a sale of a new part at their inflated prices.
Regards
Ronnie
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Post by marius on Jun 23, 2010 11:08:31 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie
Five years ago I did not realize it - now I know a lot better after learning the hard way.
Regards Marius
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Post by marius on Jun 23, 2010 16:33:36 GMT 2
Hi all The cylinder in the front is the original Lada part (C141 in the parts manual) still with it's locking bolts that allows replacement parts. I removed the connectors to fit on the new cylinder. The one at the rear (6845) replaced the original part - and looked very rusty from day one - and with no locking bolts Looks much worse than the original part and was obviously a very expensive rip off In hindsight I should have used the rusty cylinder's connectors.
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Post by danie on Jun 23, 2010 17:22:46 GMT 2
Hi All
I think re sleeving is the way to go.
New inner components (piston,etc.) could also be machined, to suit quality seals which are freely available locally - the outer stainless steel sleeve can obviously be machined to suit the inner components.......
I don't think the price will differ a lot from buying a new cylinder at the Agents.
Regards
Danie
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Post by marius on Jun 23, 2010 17:36:42 GMT 2
Here is the Fiat Uno replacement part 30.206.0111. Not a perfect match but very close to the original. It has no rubber boot and no stop bolts The rear feeder pipe is offset and proved a little difficult to fit tightly the first time. The brake & clutch people recommended superglue to fit the connectors. It seems to work and hopefully it will last Braking is quite good - however when I start the car with my foot on the pedal I don't get the forward motion when the booster kicks in I would like to resleeve the original cylinder and also both the cylinders on the clutch.
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