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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Nov 9, 2009 15:59:40 GMT 2
Here is another part that fits.
The lada carb(21073-1107010) econo diaphragm is the same as the 32 BIS RENAULT 9 econo diaphragm.
Hope to fix up that carb Danie gave me before I go on holiday, just need the other 2 diaphragms
Ari
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Post by danie on Nov 13, 2009 18:34:08 GMT 2
Replacement rear wheel bearings which fit: SKF 62208 - 2RS1
Regards
Danie
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Post by hendrikgangel on Nov 20, 2009 23:53:15 GMT 2
. I also use 10 liter of anti-freeze in my Lada. Regards. Hercules. Hi everyone, just thought I'd mention that you'd need to use pre mixed antifreeze or make sure that the ratio is between 40% and 60% antifreeze. If you go over 70% ethylene glycol (normal antifreeze) in water the freezing point starts to rise again and the thermal conductivity reduces as well, meaning that your engine might well overheat from using undiluted antifreeze. If you go to a 30% or below concentration the corrosion inhibiting properties get too weak and the freezing point rises a lot again. Thanks for all the great info on this board, I'll participate some more as soon as I get time to start making one operational Lada out of the two that I've got. Hendrik
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Post by danie on Nov 21, 2009 8:03:46 GMT 2
Thanks Hendrik - looking forward to hear more from you in future. It would be nice to see some pics about your rebuilding project.
Sometimes the different / cheaper Antifreeze products on the market makes it quite difficult to make a good decission - as far as pre-mixing is concerned.
I prefer to buy antifreeze, supplied by well known companies. It might be more expensive, but I do not trust the "cheapies" which can be found everywhere.
Regards
Danie
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Hercules
Veteran Niva Petrol Head
Lada - your peace of mind to take on the world's vast landscapes.
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Post by Hercules on Nov 21, 2009 11:39:52 GMT 2
Thanks Hendrik, The anti-freeze I use is Midas MAF5 anti-freeze and is a 70% micture. With the extra 4 litre of water mixed with the anti-freeze, it bring the mixture down to 50%, witch is in the range of 40% - 60%.
All the best with the rebuild of your Lada, and will be nice to see some pictures and keep us updated on your progress. Also welcome to this forum and looking forward to hear a lot from you in the future.
Regards.
Hercules.
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Hercules
Veteran Niva Petrol Head
Lada - your peace of mind to take on the world's vast landscapes.
Posts: 785
Location: Gauteng
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Post by Hercules on Nov 21, 2009 12:30:05 GMT 2
I replaced my starter solonoid with a solonoid from Midas Part No: ESOL 1515. The solonoid fit on the starter but the relay armature is too short and does not engage the bendix. I cut the old relay armature front off and weld it underneath the new relay armature front so that the retangilar slot just pretrude in the front of the new arelay armutere front. I fitted the solonoid with the mod to the bottom of the relay armature. It works very well and in future if the solonoid needs replacing, I just replace the new relay armature with the excisting relay armature. I also replaced the push on terminal on the starter wire with a round terminal because the new solonoid got a screw instead of a push on lug.
Regards.
Hercules.
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Hercules
Veteran Niva Petrol Head
Lada - your peace of mind to take on the world's vast landscapes.
Posts: 785
Location: Gauteng
Town: Benoni
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Post by Hercules on Nov 24, 2009 21:45:37 GMT 2
Another part that can be modify to work is the distributor cap. Use an Eclin EP214 cap available at any spare parts dealer and file the blank off away next to the cut out locater and it fit perfectly and works very well. The Lada cap is a modified Fiat 124 cap and is made in the same mould, thats why the blank off next to the locater cut out. The manufacturer just changed the blank off to make the two different caps.
Regards.
Hercules.
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Post by ronnie on Jan 2, 2010 12:07:23 GMT 2
Hi Mike,
Looking through old postings and see you have been looking at a snorkel. I have just finished building one . Will post all details as soon as the 'Silly` season is over.I have managed to come straight down the pillar through the panel and into the engine compartment with no unsightly bends.
Regards
Ronnie.
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Post by hotstuff on Jan 4, 2010 8:39:45 GMT 2
hi ronnie looking forward to your post about snorkel thnxs
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Post by danie on Jan 6, 2010 6:21:33 GMT 2
I noticed on Jan's website that he sells rebuilt Ladas with an aftermarket "South African" thermostat.
I do not have any knowledge or experience about Jan's thermostat, but anyone who might be interested in buying a thermostat from Jan, could obviously contact him.
Ronnie, just as a matter of interest, where has Jan's thermostat been mounted on your Lada ?
Regards
Danie
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Post by ronnie on Jan 6, 2010 12:46:48 GMT 2
Hi Danie.
Unles Jan has changed something since late last year he does not fit a thermostat. He links the botom hoses with a copper plumbing tee and bend and restricts the bypass connection with a 10mm hole. That is why I have modified mine as I do not like any car to run without a thermostat. I can also confirm my Lada runs at a constant 90 deg even on our very warm days. I run with only a pair of electric fans and no engine driven fan .When the fans are running ,the air passing through the left fan is fairly hot but the right hand fan is much colder . This shows the fans are doing their job. I have modified a spare heated rear window switch so i can over ride the fan thermo switch if ever needed. this switch is illuminated so i have wired the lamp to come on when the fans run. You can blank out the marking on the sw with matt black spray paint and cut through black plastic of the switch to expose the white plastic behind leaving a square window for the warning light. Hope this makes sense.
Regards
Ronnie
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Post by danie on Jan 6, 2010 19:23:07 GMT 2
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Post by ronnie on Jan 8, 2010 11:47:36 GMT 2
Hi Danie
I have spoken to Michelle at Lada Centurion and she confirms Jan`s "Thermostat" is as I described prevously. Before i did my "Mods" my Lada tended to run too cool. The mods listed on the forum work just fine!
Regards
Ronnie.
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Post by danie on Jan 8, 2010 18:00:15 GMT 2
Thanks for reporting this information Ronnie.
I always beleived that there should be a very good reason why Jan does not install the original Russian thermostats . They are obviously not too expensive - specially when imported at large numbers.
The restricting hole in Jan's "thermostat" is a good idea, and will obviously prevent the cooling fluid from circulating too fast through the cooling system. The retriction hole will also ensure that the engine will warm up faster after a cold start .
Just another request Ronnie - it would be very helpful if you could let us know if your Lada's temperature still stay normal under slow driving conditions - like in heavy traffic, on a very hot day.
Regards
Danie
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Post by ronnie on Jan 8, 2010 19:24:12 GMT 2
when driving slowly the fans very seldom come on. If you are stationary the fans cut in at just over 90 deg and back off just under 90 deg. Jan told me some time ago he cannot get thermostats from Russia with the correct temp rating for our climate.I still think the thermostat in the top hose is the best way to go.
Regards
Ronnie
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Post by danie on Feb 13, 2010 11:29:06 GMT 2
I once did a waterpump mod with parts bought from Bearingman, and Sealco, Durban. The modified waterpump lasted about 20 000 km, before it started leaking again. My posts (messages 21 and 22) to the old forum in this regard can be found here: locsa.atspace.com/old_message_board.htmRegards Danie
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Post by danie on Mar 27, 2010 20:01:57 GMT 2
Crankshaft oil seals which fits: Rear oil seal (Viton) bought from Bearing Man : (Part No. SM709010 VF) Price - R60.00 (Viton seals are usually rated 200 Deg C. max) Front oil seal, bought from Abes Technoseal, Durban: (Part No 008087 - Description : 40.00X56.00X7.00HTC) Price R20.00 (Not Viton, but rated 150 Deg C. max) I tried to find a Viton front seal as well, but couldn't find one. Bearing Man , as well as Sealco Durban only sell compatible front crankshaft seals which are rated 85 Deg C. max. - not good enough to my mind. The above mentioned seals are "ET " type design with an extra lip - unlike the "ES" (single lip) design - like the Russian crankshaft oil seals: www.epm.com/oil_st_lips.htmThis pic shows the new installed oil seals, with the original single lip (Russian) oil seals at the bottom. The pen in my hand indicates the extra lip on the rear Viton seal Danie
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Post by ronnie on Mar 27, 2010 20:25:25 GMT 2
Hi Danie
Thanks for the info. I will need to start and list all these part numbers for future reference. That way I won`t need to search through all the posts when I need them.
Regards
Ronnie
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Post by ronnie on Apr 18, 2010 20:52:48 GMT 2
Hi all I notice the spare wheel under the bonet collects water and tends to rust at the join in the rim. Here`s a simple way to be able to turn the wheel face down. You may need to thread the hold down bolt slightly more or add a couple of washers. I have painted the altered mount white so you can see it better. There are no joins to rust now. Regards Ronnie
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Post by ronnie on Apr 18, 2010 21:05:13 GMT 2
Hi All here its with the wheel installed Regards Ronnie
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Apr 19, 2010 9:15:05 GMT 2
Hi I have also thought about doing this but for a different reason. On a website I saw a pic of a round toolbox that fits into the spare wheel and then that space is not wasted. I think the guy welded it up himself and then made trays for it with foam in and pressed all his spanners in so that each one had a place and they did not rattle. Ari
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Apr 19, 2010 9:16:25 GMT 2
or this one
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Post by ronnie on Apr 19, 2010 15:40:53 GMT 2
Hi Ari
I think I saw these two pics on the Baxter site.The first one will fit in fine and make the space in the wheel well usable.
Regards
Ronnie
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Post by ronnie on Apr 24, 2010 16:57:52 GMT 2
Hi All Here`s another small mod that costs nothing. It gets the rear wiper down out of the way and does not make any difference to the rear view. Just clamp the arm in the vice edge on and bend slightly. Regards Ronnie
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Post by ronnie on Apr 28, 2010 18:54:47 GMT 2
Hi All Don`t think the battery in my Lada was up to much, forever charging it. I have altered the battery tray and managed (just) to fit in a 102Amp/hr deep cycle battery and keep the spare wheel in place. ;D Unfortunatly the wheel is face up again to clear the battery. Regards Ronnie
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Post by danie on May 1, 2010 11:12:48 GMT 2
Hi Hercules As far as I can remember, you once mentioned that one of the BMW model's valve stem seals fits on a Lada. Unfortunately I can't find your comments now, and I need to change valve stem seals at the moment.
I started re-assembling my Lada's engine, and discovered that one seal was loose at the bottom end - the seal was actually sitting halfway up the valve stem, not sealing at all.
Do you think it should be better to buy BMW original seals, or will the aftermarket ones be good enough ?
The part number will be appreciated.
Many thanks.
Regards
Danie
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on May 1, 2010 16:55:11 GMT 2
Hi Danie
From p3 of technical issues and the topic is head recondition mods.
"I had to re-con my Lada's head due to bent valves after the timing tensioner shoe broke. The engineering place that did the head suggest that I replace the valve guides with solid brass guides used in the BMW728 motor because they are better than the cast iron guides of the Lada. The only mod on the BMW guide is that they had to be machined shorter and the circlip groove had to be added. I also used the BMW valve stem seals because they are of a better quality as the Lada seals. It work perfect and I'm very happy with mod after doing nearly 15000km already and no problems. The guide part no. is RVG24002 and is available from Midas.
Regards.
Hercules. "
Ari
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Post by marius on May 1, 2010 18:00:09 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie
Just curious about the old battery you are talking about - was it the original Russian one? Mine lasted for nearly eight years before I replaced it with a local bty.
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Post by danie on May 1, 2010 18:36:25 GMT 2
Thanks Ari
Regards
Danie
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Hercules
Veteran Niva Petrol Head
Lada - your peace of mind to take on the world's vast landscapes.
Posts: 785
Location: Gauteng
Town: Benoni
Registered: Oct 2, 2009 11:55:41 GMT 2
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Post by Hercules on May 1, 2010 18:59:33 GMT 2
Hallo Danie.
As Ari reply above, the Guides and valve seals are of the BMW 728, which also have 8mm valves. The golf 8mm seals also work and look the same as the Lada and BMW. I don't have the seal part number, but the guide number is RVG24002 from Midas. The seals I got from Jan in the head set was pure rubbish and did not hold onto the guide from the start. The moment the engine turn they all follow the valves like they got little umbrellas on, they just dont stay on the valve guides. I did just over 20000km and the seals still work very well.
Regards.
Hercules.
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