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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Jan 17, 2011 13:16:50 GMT 2
Hi guys I replaced a faulty cable on my Fiat Palio last year and noticed that the wiring is different. Instead of 2 long cables, from starter to battery and from alty to battery, it had 2 shorter ones. One from the alty to the starter and one from the starter to the battery. A clever cost saving? Last year I noticed that the alty is putting out 13.9 V but the battery only gets 10-11 V, and with the headlights on only 8V. And then I found the thin little wire from the alty to the battery. So today I replaced the starter's wire and the short one betw the alty and starter. Previously the starter motor cable was lying behind the engine draped over the bellhousing. I dont think that was to good as I'm sure it got fairly warm there. Ari
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Jan 17, 2011 13:48:50 GMT 2
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Post by Charles on Jan 17, 2011 16:00:56 GMT 2
Hi Ari
Glad you did it. Its alot safer. That new cv needs some mud on it!
How many washers are fitted behind your upper controle arm?
Charles
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Jan 17, 2011 16:14:29 GMT 2
Hi Charles
No idea, took them off and replaced them all.
Ari
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darryn
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Post by darryn on Jan 17, 2011 18:13:12 GMT 2
Hey Ari- so did this make the drop in voltage go away?
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Post by ronnie on Jan 17, 2011 18:31:40 GMT 2
Hi Ari
That is a good mod to do and it will immediately give you a charging boost to the battery. The thicker the wire the lower the voltage drop. It would be interesting if you can measure the voltage now. If you want to do this to the Niva you only need a short piece of wire and 2 lugs. Just remembered, if you want to do this properly on the Niva there is one thick pink wire coming from the alternator going to the fuse box which needs to be located where it comes through the bulkhead and diverted to the battery. You will then have 2 heavy pink wires redundant at the alternator.
Ronnie
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Post by ronnie on Jan 17, 2011 18:36:36 GMT 2
Hi Ari I see a lot of UNFUSED wires at your battery. This is the easiest way to lose a car through fire. Ronnie
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Post by Charles on Jan 17, 2011 19:27:04 GMT 2
Ari what is the guage of the wire you used?
Charles
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Jan 17, 2011 19:27:07 GMT 2
The Alty now gives 13.98 V at the battery. The Voltage drops to 12.24V with the headlights on full beam and the spots on while idling at 800rpm. My idling always dropped 200rpm if I put the lights on but not anymore.
All those wires are fused , just at differnt places.
Ari
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Post by Charles on Jan 17, 2011 19:33:04 GMT 2
Ari your fuses must be as close to the battery as possible. Otherwise you still have a live wire even if your fuse blew.
Charles
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Jan 19, 2011 19:56:50 GMT 2
Hi
Most of those wires go into the 2nd fuse box except 1 which goes to a 2nd starter motor relay
Ari
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Jan 19, 2011 20:04:32 GMT 2
Hi Darryn
For this you need 2m of red thick wire and 3 or 4 lugs to crimp on depending on your battery terminals.
1) Take off the splash plate under the alternator. 2) Disconnect your - battery terminal 3) Disconnect your + battery terminal (yes in that order) 4) Disconnect the alternator wires 5) Remove the alternator (only if you can't see the starter motor wiring properly) 6) Trace the wires at the starter motor and remove the one betw the battery and starter motor 7) Cut 250mm off and crimp a lug onto each side 8) Crimp a lug onto the long piece 9) Connect both wires to the starter motor where you removed the old wire 10) Replace the alternator 11) Connect the other end of the short wire to the alternator and reconnect the voltage wire 12) Trace the 2 pink wires from the alternator to where they enter the bulkhead 13) Cut them shorter but so that they can still reach the + battery terminal 14) You will need 2 more lugs to connect these 2 wires to the + battery terminal 15) Run the long red wire to the + battery terminal (shorten if neccessary)and connect it to the + battery terminal
That should do it. Otherwise give me a call Darryn and I'll help you over a weekend.
Ari
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Jan 19, 2011 20:27:50 GMT 2
Hi Darryn Seeing you can do most of the crimping outside the Lada, why not crimp AND solder. Thanks for the instructions Ari! regards all Spikes
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Post by ronnie on Jan 20, 2011 13:33:52 GMT 2
Hi Spikes
If you have wires which come from the body to the motor they are then subject to movement and should NOT be soldered as they then break at the solder over time. The big problem with crimping is the average DIY person does not have the correct crimping tool.The crimping tool for insulated and uninsulated lugs are totally different.
Ronnie
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Post by ronnie on Jan 20, 2011 13:54:10 GMT 2
Darryn One other thing, I doubt if many people on this Forum have the correct crimping tool to crimp a lug on to the heavy starter wire successfully. A hex crimping tool is the only way to do this correctly. I have taken a photo of my loom which has been redone as I described earlier. I hope this helps. Ronnie
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Jan 20, 2011 15:39:10 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie I stand corrected, thanks but in the absence of the correct tool (As you rightly say very few of us have them)I soldered the lugs between the alternator, battery, starter and earth on my Suzuki 1000 SJ when new in 1983. None had broken off when I sold it 173000km and 20 years later. Regards Spikes
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darryn
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Post by darryn on Jan 20, 2011 16:15:57 GMT 2
Thanks so much guys. I'll let everyone know how it goes.
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Post by ronnie on Jan 20, 2011 17:57:59 GMT 2
Hi Spikes
If you do not have the correct crimping tool soldering is the only alternative, but anything which is soldered and subject to movement will break at some time. It is a pity that I live so far away as I have all the different crimping tools.
Ronnie
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