spikes
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Registered: Apr 19, 2010 19:39:51 GMT 2
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Post by spikes on Oct 6, 2010 19:50:08 GMT 2
Hi Silvio, somewhere in those pages of the spares manual, you will find the dia and width of the bearing regards Spikes
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Post by Charles on Oct 6, 2010 19:50:25 GMT 2
Hi Danie
One must also make sure that the part of the sideshaft that goes thru the oilseal is very smooth and clean. I sand it wit p800 waterpaper. Also apply some rubber grease to the oil seal inside. The reason for this is when you start driving the first time after replacing the seal there is no oil on the seal and the sideshaft can burn the seal and it will leak. This is very important on crankshaft oil seals.
Charles
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Post by Charles on Oct 6, 2010 19:56:16 GMT 2
Hi Spikes
Thank you for the info. Will see how long my cheap way lasts.
Charles
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spikes
Moderator
Posts: 3,689
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Post by spikes on Oct 6, 2010 20:15:39 GMT 2
Hi all The spares manual gives two dimensions for the width 17mm or 19mm so the 18mm wide bearing should be spot on Spikes
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Post by Charles on Oct 6, 2010 20:30:46 GMT 2
I just still cant believe someone tried to use 24mm wide bearings in my lada.
Charles
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Post by marius on Oct 6, 2010 21:10:34 GMT 2
I can ;D
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Hercules
Veteran Niva Petrol Head
Lada - your peace of mind to take on the world's vast landscapes.
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Post by Hercules on Oct 6, 2010 21:23:39 GMT 2
Hi Charles.
If you tag weld on a cold driveshaft you can caused cracks which can be dangerous as the shaft can break. The material used to manufacture driveshafts are high carbon material, normaly EN19 condition T which is also flexible. The correct procedure to weld or tag weld is to pre-heat the area to at least 120 deg before welding to eliminate cracks.
Personally I will not weld or tag weld on the driveshafts.
Regards.
Hercules.
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Duane
Junior Niva Petrol Head
DARE TO DRIVE
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Post by Duane on Oct 6, 2010 21:29:30 GMT 2
Hi Charles
I agree 100% with Hercules! I will not weld at all on the sideshaft, go to an engineering shop let them mic the shaft and make you a new bush with the correct interferance to keep it in place!
Regards
Duane
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Post by Charles on Oct 6, 2010 22:07:51 GMT 2
Thanks for advice guys.
Any idea where I can get a new retainer? I dont want to pay R300 for a kit. That means the retainer will cost me R225. I will measure the retainer tomorrow and the sideshaft for intrest sake.
Charles
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Oct 6, 2010 22:11:56 GMT 2
Nope make your own or go to that guy who works at that engineering shop you told me about where everything costs R120. ;D
Ari
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Post by Charles on Oct 6, 2010 22:14:46 GMT 2
Ari remember that is only when he is high and his dad isn't there. He dad is still working on a price for me for the coil spring spacers, the same ones he said will be free.
Charles
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Post by Charles on Oct 8, 2010 20:44:17 GMT 2
Hi Guys
I am having a new retainer made up on monday. R100.
Charles
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Duane
Junior Niva Petrol Head
DARE TO DRIVE
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Post by Duane on Oct 8, 2010 22:12:23 GMT 2
Hi
I Think thats the right choice! Do it properly!
Duane
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Post by Charles on Oct 8, 2010 22:58:07 GMT 2
Hi Duane
The guy at the engineering shop also inspected my sideshaft and says he can't see any damage. So I hope it will be ok.
Charles
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Duane
Junior Niva Petrol Head
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Registered: Sept 19, 2010 23:02:48 GMT 2
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Post by Duane on Oct 8, 2010 23:07:44 GMT 2
Hi Charles
Why do you suspect damage?
Duane
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Post by Charles on Oct 8, 2010 23:24:15 GMT 2
The retainer was welded onto the shaft.
Charles
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Post by Charles on Oct 8, 2010 23:29:03 GMT 2
Only thing that still bothers me is if I put the backing plate one the diff and measure the bearing seat to where the outside retainer pushes against it, it measures 23mm. But Spiles said the manual says 17 or 19. Then again Silvio showed the pic of a manual where it says 23mm. What do you guys suggest?
Charles
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Post by danie on Oct 9, 2010 6:41:24 GMT 2
Hi Charles Maybe I am completely wrong, but I cannot see why a 24 mm bearing would be such a bad idea. Wouldn't the retainer plate keep the bearing better in place when a 24 mm bearing has been used ? Another question about the old (24 mm) bearing - is it a single or double race bearing, and is it a sealed, or open bearing ? Anyway, some useful information about a Rear Axle rebuild can be found at this link (French website) : nivaventure.free.fr/Texte/Entretien/Pont_ar/Pont_ar_en.htmRegards Danie
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Post by Charles on Oct 9, 2010 11:43:11 GMT 2
Hi Danie
According to me the bearing must be 22mm. I can get a 23mm bearing. I think im going with that one. It will just be better. It will be a nice tight fit. The old bearing was a single race bearing, sealed but the outside seal was removed for some strange reason. Thank you for the website. Was looking for it after seeing it the other day but couldn't find it.
Charles
This bearing was giving me nightmares.
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Post by danie on Oct 9, 2010 12:48:04 GMT 2
Hi Charles I just add a couple of pics (found on the UK website) to this thread for easier reference in future. The pics are quite helpful and informative, in case owners decide to remove the rear wheelbearings themselves: An Angle grinder can be used to remove the old Bearing: Just be very careful not to cause any damage to the shaft, in the area where the oil seal is located !! The Oil Seal seals at the shiny area just at the left of the grinded outer Bearing Ring: Tools needed to hammer everything in place: Old inner Bearing ring can be used as driver - can be seen on top of the new Bearing: New heated (brownish) retaining collar can be seen on top of the new Bearing. Always use a new retainer collar when the Bearing gets replaced ! A socket can be used to fit the new Oil Seal: The Oil Seal in place - (the inner shiny ring with black inner rubber ring / seal) : Danie
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Post by Charles on Oct 9, 2010 15:51:49 GMT 2
Hi Danie
Thank you very much for that photo's. I used the bolts af refrence and worked out the width of the bearing. 23mm That puts my mind at ease. I ordered a 23mm wide bearing on friday. Getting it wednesday. I am going to have a new retainer made up aswell and that will be heated and then knocked onto the shaft. All in all it will still be cheaper than a bearing kit. The bearings Im using comes from Romania and is very high quality, but still very cheap.
Charles
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