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Post by Charles on Oct 5, 2010 13:24:52 GMT 2
Hi all
I need advice getting mine out. Brakes shoes, handbrake cable and wheel cylynder are off. Four bolts that holds everything ti the diff is loose. I put the drum on in reverse with not only on to use it almost like a slide hammer, but nothing. Doesn't even move. What am I mssing?
Charles
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Oct 5, 2010 13:31:01 GMT 2
Hi
There are 2 M8 holes in the hub, screw 2 M8 rods into these holes and it will force the hub and half shafts out.
Ari
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Post by Charles on Oct 5, 2010 13:35:31 GMT 2
So that they push against the backing plate?
Charles
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Oct 5, 2010 13:38:56 GMT 2
Yes they push against the back plate that holds all the brake stuff in place.
Ari
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Post by Charles on Oct 5, 2010 13:41:13 GMT 2
Thank you Ari. You told me about it the other day, but I forgot. good thing I desided to pull the shaft. Bearing is stuffed. A new kit is costing me R288. Where did you buy yours. You said you paid R80. Thats alot cheaper.
Charles
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Oct 5, 2010 13:46:25 GMT 2
From the bearing shop in Pretoria North, But in total it cost R260 each side, because the collar has to be removed and then put back which cost me R180 for each side.
Ari
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Post by Charles on Oct 5, 2010 18:14:48 GMT 2
Rear bearing is a 6208 and the oil seal looks like a size I should find aftermarket. Just to update the rest of you, like I told Ari this afternoon. The bearing retainer was tack welded to the shaft so it has been used previously. Will do that again seeing as I'm not going to pay R288 for a bearing kit.
When I had the wheel cylinder off I realised that it is seized sold. Stripped it this afternoon. Will hone it tomorrow and put a kit in. Looks like a Uno kit should work. No wonder I dont have any brakes.
Charles
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Oct 5, 2010 18:38:25 GMT 2
Are you sure it is 6208 and not 62208, uno kit does work as far as I know.
Ari
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Post by Charles on Oct 5, 2010 18:43:50 GMT 2
On the bearing it says 6208.
Charles
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Oct 5, 2010 18:54:03 GMT 2
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Post by Charles on Oct 5, 2010 19:50:40 GMT 2
Will do that tomorrow. Will post photos of my old bearing aswell to show the number and the damage.
Charles
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Post by Charles on Oct 6, 2010 10:08:55 GMT 2
Hi Ari
The difference between a 6208 and 62208 bearing is 2mm in width. The 6208 is 18mm wide and the 62208 is 16mm wide. I measured the bearing seat in the diff and it is 18mm.
Charles
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Oct 6, 2010 10:56:53 GMT 2
Hi Charles
The only way to solve this is to find someone who has measured the original russian bearings.
Ari
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Post by Charles on Oct 6, 2010 13:02:05 GMT 2
Hi Ari
I agree with you. But in my opinion the bearing must sit full in the seat otherwise it will move out. The bearing that came out of mine is 24mm wide. Way too big. No wonder everything is bent. Will post pics tonight.
Charles
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Oct 6, 2010 13:06:27 GMT 2
Hi Charles
So put the smaller 62208 in then, and it should work.
Ari
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Oct 6, 2010 13:07:41 GMT 2
A question, why does no-one else comment on this topic? Ari
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Post by Charles on Oct 6, 2010 16:00:01 GMT 2
Hi Ari
The 6208 bearing fits perfectly. The bearing that one gets in the kit is also a 6208. I think your bearing is too narrow. Don't know if this wil give problems in the long run. Only thing I can think of is that the outer race of the bearing has 2mm sidewards play. As long as the bearing doesnt move it should be fine. Otherwise it could cause bearing failure due to the sidewards movement.
Charles
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Post by ronnie on Oct 6, 2010 16:34:17 GMT 2
Hi Ari and Charles
I don`t comment as `i have not stripped a Lada`s. But reading between the lines the correct bearing is 18mm. 16mm would be incorrect.
Ronnie
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Post by Charles on Oct 6, 2010 17:45:22 GMT 2
Here is a photo of my damaged bearing. Here is the old one (24mm) and the new one (18mm) Charles
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Post by Charles on Oct 6, 2010 17:52:55 GMT 2
I also pulled my disks off to have them skimmed. LH came out fine. Grease still looks good and doesnt smell. RH not so good. Moved about 4mm then nothing. Forced it out pulling the front bearing with it. Luckly the seal is still fine. Will have diskes skimmed tomorrow and get them to remove the bearing sleeve aswell. It doesnt want to budge. Will get two 32008 bearings at the same time. Wish me luck.
Charles
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Post by marius on Oct 6, 2010 18:12:17 GMT 2
Hi Charles
I do not know that much about the rear bearings BUT it is vital that you replace the stop ring that retains the bearing - it is a serious safety issue. You will also need to do it at the correct temprature. Perhaps someone with more knowledge about this should comment.
Regards Marius
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Post by Charles on Oct 6, 2010 18:22:37 GMT 2
Hi Marius.
I know about the ring. The one that came off was tack welded to stay in place. Even after filinfg off the wels I still had to press it very hard with the press to get it off. I will reuse it but also just tack it. I know it isn't the right way but doing it that wat it will cost me only R65 that is for the bearing and sideshaft oil sel. If I order a kit it will cost me just shy of R300.
Charles
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bobbyd
Veteran Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 575
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Post by bobbyd on Oct 6, 2010 18:23:44 GMT 2
My Niva chews through rear wheel bearings at quite a rate, water and abrasive mud I guess, On my last set of new bearings I used sealer to try and keep dirty water out as I found about 50-60mls in each bearing cavity
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Post by Charles on Oct 6, 2010 18:26:07 GMT 2
About heating up the retainer ring. At work I have raplaced many sideshaft bearings. We never heat them to fit them. Just have to heat them sometimes to get them off. We just press them onto the sideshaft. Have never had a problem. When we press them on its with at least ten tons of pressure. I dont think you will ever generate that much sideways force on the sideshaft. Just my opinion. But I am still going to tack my retaining ring to the sideshaft because it isn't new. Just for safety.
Charles
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Post by Charles on Oct 6, 2010 18:27:43 GMT 2
Hi Bobby
I am also using sealer on mine. Water destroys the lubrication properties of the grease and makes it hard. So I also don't want any water in mine.
Charles
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bobbyd
Veteran Niva Petrol Head
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Post by bobbyd on Oct 6, 2010 18:29:29 GMT 2
I dont heat the ring to remove or fit it
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Post by Charles on Oct 6, 2010 19:03:32 GMT 2
Bobby do you use a new one everytime?
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Post by danie on Oct 6, 2010 19:23:12 GMT 2
The difference between a 6208 and 62208 bearing is 2mm in width. The 6208 is 18mm wide and the 62208 is 16mm wide. I measured the bearing seat in the diff and it is 18mm. Very interesting. The 2 mm difference in width is probably the cause of oil leaks on sideshafts - like the leak on Jurian's Lada. I don't think the standard O ring - which is located between the outer Bearing ring and the Bearing Housing, will be thick enough to prevent oil leaks on the Sideshaft if the 16 mm bearings (62208) are being used. A possible solution (to prevent oil leaks) would be to use thicker O rings when 62208 Bearing are installed, or to install an additional (self made) velamoid seal, as well as the standard O ring. Regards Danie
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silvio
New Niva Petrol Head
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Post by silvio on Oct 6, 2010 19:42:27 GMT 2
this is a picture of bearing
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Oct 6, 2010 19:46:15 GMT 2
Hi Charles, Have a look at the manual (part2)- directions there recommend that a new stop ring should be used every time.Marius is quite correct with the heating up of the parts."Axle shaft reassembly Place the axle shaft vertically and rest the flange on ring 7 (fig. 3-62) of tool 67.7823.9530. Bolt together the axle shaft bearing oil screen and the bearing fastening plate with a seal, and refit the assembly on the axle shaft; fit the axle shaft ball bearing. Fit a new stop ring into special retainer 3, place into heater and warm the ring up to approximately 300 ¡, so that at the moment of press-fitting its temperature will be 220-240 ¡." I'd go with the 18mm bearing PROVIDED that it leaves space for the stop ring Regards all Spikes
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