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Post by ronnie on Jul 14, 2010 10:14:08 GMT 2
Hi All I replaced the bonnet cable some time ago as it was very stiff and when I examined it it was badly rusted. Yesterday the bonnet refused to open and I ended up with a broken cable and closed bonnet. . To save any one in the same position the problem of how to now open the bonnet here is how I managed. With a slim screwdriver you can just manage to remove the one M5 and one self tapper which holds the side lights in. Insert the screwdriver between the bonnet and the plastic surround carefully, there should be enough space Once the lights are out it is a simple matter to remove the bonnet hinge bolts (13 spanner). With help you can remove the spare wheel, there is enough room to slide it forward. In my case I still could not open the lock with my hand as the lock was jammed. With a bit of difficulty you can now remove the two nuts holding the lock on (10 spanner) and lift off the bonnet. Will organize a new cable today and fix the lock. Regards Ronnie
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Hercules
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Post by Hercules on Jul 14, 2010 18:39:27 GMT 2
Thanks Ronnie for the interesting information on how to open the bonnet when the cable is broken or lock is jammed.
Somestage some of us will be in the same difficulty in the future.
Regards.
Hercules.
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Jul 14, 2010 19:09:27 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie, Thanks for that! A good source for ready made up cable with nylon inners will be one of your local cycle shops. They stock ready made cables in various lengths. cheers spikes
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Post by ronnie on Jul 14, 2010 20:00:31 GMT 2
Hi Spikes
Fortunately I Had a couple of pieces of "outer cable" lying around and I have a roll of 1mm piano wire so I made up a cable myself. It is all back together and working. ;D
Regards
Ronnie
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darryn
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Post by darryn on Jul 14, 2010 20:58:31 GMT 2
Geez Ronnie, you made me laugh... Ironically, I was fixing up my bonnet catch today when I thought to myself "I wonder how I'll get this thing open if the wind blows it shut". At least now I know to keep the thing in good shape so that I don't go through the same thing.
Laters.
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Post by lada & korean parts on Jul 15, 2010 6:34:31 GMT 2
even easier,long screwdriver & a rag. screwdriver down vent grille on bonnet,rag to stop scratching,& you can slide the catch that way.
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Post by ronnie on Jul 15, 2010 9:55:56 GMT 2
Hi Andy
Looked at that way and would be do-able if only cable was broken. In my case the lock was jammed and I could not open it reaching in with my hand. I had to lever it off the bonnet with tools after i removed the bonnet.
Regards
Ronnie
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Post by ronnie on Jul 15, 2010 10:00:28 GMT 2
Hi Darryn Laughing is good for you, we should all do it Regards Ronnie
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Jul 17, 2010 14:06:05 GMT 2
Ha Ha Ronnie
I dont have that problem as my lock is missing and I'm using black rubber ties (like old jeeps and cruisers had). The only problem is that it is not as safe.
Ari
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Post by ronnie on Jul 17, 2010 14:26:36 GMT 2
Hi Ari I don`t think a thief will give a Lada a second glance. They are looking for things they can turn into easy cash. A lada is a Lada is a Lada. Regards Ronnie
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Jul 17, 2010 18:01:09 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie
Thats what I'm banking on Ronnie.
Ari
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Jaco
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Post by Jaco on Oct 15, 2010 15:09:39 GMT 2
Hi Guys, I got my Lada without a bonnet cable. Where does it mount inside the cab? I can't seem to find any lever or anything inside?
Jaco
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Post by Charles on Oct 15, 2010 16:07:30 GMT 2
Hi Jaco
On the left under the dash. I bought a universal bonnet cable that I am going to fit on the right hand side. Ronnie says that there is a chance that it won't work because the cable has to do a u-turn. So I am hoping for the best. Otherwise if you dont care about haviing your bonnet lockek you can remove the catch and fit rubber hold downs. Like the old jeeps. Look at the first page of post yur lada pic here. Ari's lada has them.
Charles
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Post by ronnie on Oct 15, 2010 19:19:12 GMT 2
Hi Jaco and Charles It will be interesting to see if the bonnet pull on the right works or not. Normally it would but, when the lock is closed the spring tension is very high, and with the "u" turn in the cable . Some times I found mine very hard to pull and found when the spare wheel was out It was very easy. After bending the bar the wheel rests on it is now always easy. I don`t mind it being on the left but the boot pull on the left is a pain. I fitted a door lock solenoid to the boot with a push button. Ronnie
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Hein
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Post by Hein on Oct 15, 2010 20:26:01 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie
I have that same problem that I battle to open the bonnet with the spare wheel in. Where did you bend the bar? I am currently driving whith the wheel in the boot, which is not ideal.
Regards
Hein
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Post by Charles on Oct 15, 2010 22:50:20 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie
I am also planning of fitting a solenoid. Do you have to use a relay or is the amps the solenoid low enough?
Charles
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Post by ronnie on Oct 16, 2010 9:09:27 GMT 2
Hi Charles No relay is required. The funny thing is I need to press the button twice for it to open . Anyway it works nicely Ronnie
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Post by ronnie on Oct 16, 2010 9:19:42 GMT 2
Hi Hein
At the air intake to the heater I put an offset in the flat part to lower the bar. At the front I took a 4 lb hammer and knocked the bar lower ;D. I had the bar off 2 or 3 times before I was happy, and it now opens and closes very easy. Before I had to realy slam it to close and actually managed tojam the lock to such an extent I could not open the bonnet as the lock was jammed solid.
Ronnie
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Post by Charles on Oct 16, 2010 10:28:34 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie
That is strange. As long as it works. My old steering wheel has a small push button that wil work nicely. The guys here is just mad with their prices on solenoids.
Charles
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Post by ronnie on Oct 16, 2010 19:25:56 GMT 2
Hi Hein
Just a thought before you get the 4 lb hammer out. Take the bar completely out and I am sure the bolt will hold the spare in place so you can see what happens before you try my method.
Ronnie
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Post by ronnie on Oct 16, 2010 19:30:46 GMT 2
Hi Charles Why not buy a door lock kit with remote from Autostylin in Durban As the lada is 2 door you now have 2 spare solenoids and you have central locking . Cant remember the price but it was R300 and something. You can check them on the web. Ronnie
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Post by Charles on Oct 16, 2010 20:54:30 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie
My car already has a alarm with central locking. I have seen that kit. I think its R350. Maybe i can get one somewhere for free.
Charles
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Post by ronnie on Oct 23, 2010 9:38:29 GMT 2
Hi Hein
I have hade another look at the spare wheel supports as I hade them off when working on the compressor. The main problem is the fixing at the heater air intake. If you look at the flattened section it is flattened to the centre. Simply put an offset here so the top of the bar is now level with the "ledge"it bolts to. This should fix the problem hopefully without changing the front.
Ronnie
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