foosh
New Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 31
Registered: May 2, 2013 1:30:54 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by foosh on Aug 23, 2013 17:31:33 GMT 2
Hello, I visited a propshaft specialist today who apparently knows his stuff, and was told by the person there that he can not see anything wrong at the moment, but upon further inspection by opening the diff etc he should be able to see if there is any problems, however if it is the transfer case/driveshaft rubber he can not help there. I then visited a mechanic and he pointed out to me that the rubber at the transfer case is cracked as shown in this pic He told me that he could fix it and would be able to find the parts for R750 and labour at around R1500. Could this crack be the source of my vibrations from around 85 - 110kmph? are these types of cracks common?
|
|
spikes
Moderator
Posts: 3,689
Location: Mpumalanga
Town: Nelspruit
Registered: Apr 19, 2010 19:39:51 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by spikes on Aug 23, 2013 18:41:14 GMT 2
I assume your picture refers to the doughnut rubber on the connecting shaft between the gearbox and the T/C They do perish and crack, should normally last 8 to 10 years. And yes if it is torn it will increase vibration
Perhaps Marius will pop in and advise how frequently he had to replace the doughnut on his NIVA. If there are worn output/input shafts, wear and tear on the doughnut will also increase
|
|
foosh
New Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 31
Registered: May 2, 2013 1:30:54 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by foosh on Aug 23, 2013 18:47:44 GMT 2
Yes that's it, sorry my terminology is a bit bad. I would really hope this is the source to my bad vibrations, however it is not torn yet so i probably have some other related problems as well.
|
|
spikes
Moderator
Posts: 3,689
Location: Mpumalanga
Town: Nelspruit
Registered: Apr 19, 2010 19:39:51 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by spikes on Aug 23, 2013 19:07:11 GMT 2
|
|
foosh
New Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 31
Registered: May 2, 2013 1:30:54 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by foosh on Aug 23, 2013 19:17:44 GMT 2
Oh okay, thanks for the heads-up, this mechanic is usually not one to mislead someone, so he is probably unaware of the method and parts for replacement, or he thought of replacing more than just the doughnut. However it would be nice to do work on it myself
|
|
|
Post by marius on Aug 23, 2013 20:14:19 GMT 2
Well I wish someone paid me nearly R3K for every time I removed and inspected the intermediate shaft! Like Spikes mentioned - a cracked rubber doughnut will most definitely add some serious vibration. I recently thought that after 13+ years the doughnut was the culprate when I picked up some harsh vibration but after I took it down it was still in perfect shape. I use a very thin layer of glycerine (once-off) on most rubber parts which adds years to their lifespan. Marius
|
|
foosh
New Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 31
Registered: May 2, 2013 1:30:54 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by foosh on Aug 23, 2013 20:39:22 GMT 2
I wish i had the experience and tools to feel confident to tackle any task, but at the moment i don't yet have it, and knowing that i need the lada each week to be able to get back to my flat for studies puts some pressure on replacing parts that I have never worked with. With a alternate daily drive I would be quite keen though.
Would i be able to source the rubber doughnut in South Africa, or is the best option to import it?
|
|
|
Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Aug 23, 2013 21:45:50 GMT 2
Someone might have a spare one that they are willing to sell you.
Ari
|
|
Deleted
Posts: 0
Registered: May 3, 2024 5:41:43 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 23, 2013 21:50:40 GMT 2
Hi,
I think it depends how bad the cracks are, if they will cause a vibration or not. If it is just perished or a few small surface cracks, it shouldn't cause vibration. If its a deep crack it will cause vibration.
Before you start replacing parts though, are you sure that the transfer case is properly aligned?
|
|
foosh
New Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 31
Registered: May 2, 2013 1:30:54 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by foosh on Aug 23, 2013 22:26:36 GMT 2
I had it aligned by Michael, in Belville about a Month ago, so I would assume it is aligned properly. The alignment did take away some of the vibrations, but not really much. It however makes me wonder now why he wouldn't have picked up the cracks, although i guess it's something that can be overlooked if you don't look for it.
the one crack looks like it is almost halfway through already so i guess it classifies as bad.
|
|
Deleted
Posts: 0
Registered: May 3, 2024 5:41:43 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 23, 2013 22:55:57 GMT 2
If the crack is half way through, then it will definitely cause vibrations and needs replacement.
As for getting a doughnut locally Mike will probably be your only source in the cape
|
|
Ihar
Moderator
Lada Niva Driver
Honour thy forefathers and drink beer, they did
Posts: 1,520
Location: Gauteng
Town: Roodepoort
Registered: Mar 4, 2011 17:30:11 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by Ihar on Aug 24, 2013 6:39:00 GMT 2
Hi
To replace it yourself you need the following:
1. Tin of spraypaint 2. 13 spanner 3. 13 socket and short extension 4. 2 19 spanners 5. Trolley jack (recommended but not required) 6. 24 beers 7. 4pd hammer 8. Long screwdriver
If you want a full guide in how to do it let me know and I will type it up.
Tjeers
Steve
|
|
spikes
Moderator
Posts: 3,689
Location: Mpumalanga
Town: Nelspruit
Registered: Apr 19, 2010 19:39:51 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by spikes on Aug 24, 2013 6:57:08 GMT 2
There's a replacement doughnut on the spares list ex Ford Granada I think. But as the present doughnut has bolts through, rather order the correct part. There's a youtube guide on the youtube site. And a description of the job in the technical section. The manual is also quite clear on that section.
It is really straight forward to remove and replace the shaft.
|
|
ladanivabelgium
Veteran Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 962
Location: EU
Town: Kessel, Belgium
Registered: Nov 5, 2010 19:50:31 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by ladanivabelgium on Aug 24, 2013 10:59:16 GMT 2
Hi To replace it yourself you need the following: 1. Tin of spraypaint 2. 13 spanner 3. 13 socket and short extension 4. 2 19 spanners 5. Trolley jack (recommended but not required) 6. 24 beers7. 4pd hammer 8. Long screwdriver If you want a full guide in how to do it let me know and I will type it up. Tjeers Steve sounds about right
|
|
foosh
New Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 31
Registered: May 2, 2013 1:30:54 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by foosh on Aug 24, 2013 14:16:59 GMT 2
I just spoke to Ventz, and he does have a new part from the manufacturer for me. So things are looking up. Steve if you could give me a full guide that would be absolutely amazing! I do not have all the tools, but since i'm saving on doing it myself I might as well give Makro a visit.
|
|
Ihar
Moderator
Lada Niva Driver
Honour thy forefathers and drink beer, they did
Posts: 1,520
Location: Gauteng
Town: Roodepoort
Registered: Mar 4, 2011 17:30:11 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by Ihar on Aug 24, 2013 17:10:02 GMT 2
Bear with me, this guide is going to be a work in progress.
1> Disconnect battery. 2> Remove the knobs on hi-lo gear lever. 3> Remove the knob on diff lock gear lever. 4> Remove all screws holding the rigid plastic cover over centre console in place and remove (dont break the cigarette lighter wires). 5> Take off the rubber covers on the above mention gear levers. 6> Disconnect hi-lo range electrical connectors from the TC. 7> Take can of spray-paint and spray over the tc case mounting to the body so as to mark exact position. 8> Using 13 spanner remove the bottom bolts holding the prop shafts to the TC. 9> Move car so the prop shafts rotate and you can get to the remainder of the prop-shaft bolts. 10> Using pliers (large) or water pliers remove the speedo cable from the TC 11> Using 2 19 spanners loosen and remove the bolts through the donut that face the TC. (IOW the nuts closest to the TC). You may have to put the gb in gear to stop the donut turning as you try remove the nuts. Bolts are easiest to remove from inside the car once the nuts are off. They slide out (normally with the help of a 4pd hammer and large screwdriver) to the left of the GB when sitting inside the car. 12> When all 3 bolts are removed loosen the nuts holding the tc to the body with 13 socket but dont remove the nuts. 13> If you have a trolley jack and stout block of wood, position them under the TC and jack up to hold the tc, other wise lie under the TC and be prepared to catch it as you remove the nuts, weighs about 36kg. Remove the nuts holding the TC and get TC to the ground 14> Get TC out form under vehicle. 15> Using 13 spanner remove intermediate shaft form TC. 16> Using 2 19 spanners again, remove last 3 nuts and bolts from donut. 17> Check intermediate shaft CV boot for damage and replace boot if damaged / missing (local replacement is available, but not recommended as you will need to replace it again in a few weeks, get original). 18> Put new donut on and replace the 3 nuts and bolts (19 spanners) (NOTE: you should have 3 long and 3 short nuts for the bolts, the short ones go closer to the gb and the long ones closer to the tc. 19> Re-attached intermediate cv shaft (with new donut on) to the tc. 20> Ensure that the nut on back of shaft on GB is tight. 21> Get the TC back under car and lift back into place while aligning the output shaft from the GB to the centre of the donut (best done with a friend you convinced to come over for a few beers (slave labour)). 22> Attach TC to its 4 mounting studs but do not tighten. 23> Sukkel your arse off to get the bolts from the GB side back into donut (best done from inside the car and aim them in from the left of the GB). 24> Tighten the 6 nuts in the donut one at a time, locking / unlocking the gb to turn as needed. 25> Re-attach the speedo cable to tc 26> Re-attach the Hi-Lo electrical connectors to the top of the TC. 27> Tighten the 4 mounting bolts for the TC, aligning the mounts to the marks spray painted earlier. 28> Replace rubber covers on the gear levers 29> Replace centre console and gear knows. 30> Reconnect battery 31> Clean yourself and have another beer in celebration of a job well done.
Seeing as I had 4 beers while typing this, lets hope I left nothing important out.
Note, it is possible to remove the donut and intermediate shaft with the TC in place, but is a lot harder.
Tjeers
Steve
|
|
foosh
New Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 31
Registered: May 2, 2013 1:30:54 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by foosh on Aug 24, 2013 17:33:52 GMT 2
Thanks alot. this will really help with the process!
|
|
Ihar
Moderator
Lada Niva Driver
Honour thy forefathers and drink beer, they did
Posts: 1,520
Location: Gauteng
Town: Roodepoort
Registered: Mar 4, 2011 17:30:11 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by Ihar on Aug 24, 2013 17:41:18 GMT 2
You welcome and good luck
Tjeers
Steve
|
|
ladanivabelgium
Veteran Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 962
Location: EU
Town: Kessel, Belgium
Registered: Nov 5, 2010 19:50:31 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by ladanivabelgium on Aug 25, 2013 4:14:47 GMT 2
with some picturesit's a howto for replacing the clutch, so not all the steps are necesary
|
|
Ihar
Moderator
Lada Niva Driver
Honour thy forefathers and drink beer, they did
Posts: 1,520
Location: Gauteng
Town: Roodepoort
Registered: Mar 4, 2011 17:30:11 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by Ihar on Aug 25, 2013 8:02:00 GMT 2
with some picturesit's a howto for replacing the clutch, so not all the steps are necesary Jan you must have had at least 24 beers cleaning that lot just so you could take the photos? Tjeers Steve
|
|
ladanivabelgium
Veteran Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 962
Location: EU
Town: Kessel, Belgium
Registered: Nov 5, 2010 19:50:31 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by ladanivabelgium on Sept 7, 2013 7:48:32 GMT 2
aah, steve, i'm way to lazy to take those pictures. i steel them from a Russian site
|
|
Ihar
Moderator
Lada Niva Driver
Honour thy forefathers and drink beer, they did
Posts: 1,520
Location: Gauteng
Town: Roodepoort
Registered: Mar 4, 2011 17:30:11 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by Ihar on Sept 7, 2013 18:40:43 GMT 2
And here I was thinking you enjoyed beer! Tjeers Steve
|
|
foosh
New Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 31
Registered: May 2, 2013 1:30:54 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by foosh on Sept 10, 2013 19:55:14 GMT 2
Hello again, I completed the replacement of the flexible coupling (rubber doughnut) today. I could not do a thorough test all the way to top speed, but up to 100kmph the vibrations were drastically less. It was needed to replace the 3 bolts and nuts i had to take out while the Transfer case was still mounted though. the other 3 was easier to take out (I should have used some sort of thing to crimp the rubber to get the bolts out easier in after thought). I hope the slightly different bolts won't affect the balancing much.
Thanks to all the advice and guides, it really helped alot with my first relatively messy repair!
I cleaned the transfer case as well while it was out so at least it looks pretty too. Now just to fix the grinding noise from the left front wheel that started after I had the CVs replaced by a mechanic.
|
|
Ihar
Moderator
Lada Niva Driver
Honour thy forefathers and drink beer, they did
Posts: 1,520
Location: Gauteng
Town: Roodepoort
Registered: Mar 4, 2011 17:30:11 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by Ihar on Sept 11, 2013 6:53:57 GMT 2
Grats on the donut. Your grinding noise sounds like the bearing to me due to an incorrectly torqued wheel when it was put back on. You could be lucky and get away with just redoing the torque or you might have to replace the bearing. Otherwise you would have to look at the cv's again.
Tjeers
Steve
|
|
spikes
Moderator
Posts: 3,689
Location: Mpumalanga
Town: Nelspruit
Registered: Apr 19, 2010 19:39:51 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by spikes on Sept 11, 2013 13:47:43 GMT 2
Well done!
|
|