bobbyd
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Post by bobbyd on Jul 20, 2013 14:03:27 GMT 2
Hello everyone I have a few problems which have turned up, I will start with a few of the more entertaining ones!
First up my NIva has 1600 wiring with a bit of 1700 wiring plus some Aust wiring too. My Niva has electronic ignition, electric idle jet, EGR and a cat convertor
1, if I have IGN on and doors open I have interior lights but no lights on the dash and if I shut the door the interior lights go out and the wiper relay vibrates/buzzes! I have wiring diagrams which have been usefull to a certain extent but I have reached a point where I could do with some external help. B
Plenty more issues comeing soon!
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Post by marius on Jul 20, 2013 16:11:55 GMT 2
Sounds Russian to me! My electrical skills are way below par but it smells like you had some rats paying your Niva a visit. My best guess is that you will have to look for some chowed wires. Good luck! Marius
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Jul 20, 2013 16:15:59 GMT 2
Bobby erm. I have a 1700 wiring loom for sale and I know of a 1600 wiring loom coming up for sale in the next few days but I dont think you would be willing to ship them to would you?
Only other suggestion I have is check your fuses for shorts and that everything is earthing properly.
Tjeers
Steve
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Post by ronnie on Jul 20, 2013 20:19:02 GMT 2
Hi Bob
As Steve suggests, check the fuses are all OK and making good connections. Before you do any thing else check all the earth connections and make sure they are tight and clean.
Ronnie
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bobbyd
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Post by bobbyd on Jul 22, 2013 11:41:46 GMT 2
I also have a start relay and an ignition on relay to confuse the issue a bit more! I could spent all day writeing on here explaining the trouble shooting I have done, I had thought of removeing all the LADA Aust stuff but gave that idea away as its pretty indepth, I had thought of removeing all non 1600 wireing but my looms etc etc arent like the 1600 wireing diagrams I have, I had thought of tilting toward the 1700 wireing but there dosent seem to be much of it there. Im not going to an auto electrician at $120 an hour!!!! saying that they wouldnt touch it. And today a brand new complete 1600 wireing loom turned up on ebay, $280!!!!!!!!!!
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bobbyd
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Post by bobbyd on Jul 30, 2013 12:53:54 GMT 2
Update. My voltage would drop to 3 volts when one of the main power wires to the ALT is connected, issue turned out to be the festoon bulbs in the interior lights! Now I still no voltage at the coil positive and no gauges or lighting on the dash at all. 3 volts at the starter (wire 50) All wires on the back of the ignition barrel are correct.
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Aug 10, 2013 8:25:59 GMT 2
bobby, difficult to make a diagnose from the other side of the world, but i believe you have a huge short circuit. This could be in the starter, the alt (or regulator) or the igintion barrel. You are VERY sure the battery is ok?
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bobbyd
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Post by bobbyd on Aug 14, 2013 11:45:48 GMT 2
Yeah ha!!!!!!!!! it turned out to be an intermittent short/voltage loss in the ign barrel!
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Aug 14, 2013 13:58:57 GMT 2
Great job in tracing it, how did you figure it out?
Tjeers
Steve
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bobbyd
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Post by bobbyd on Aug 17, 2013 10:24:15 GMT 2
Sort of sorted out, Now I have 12 volts measured at the Alternator only when the key is in position 1, And other weird stuff
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Aug 17, 2013 20:16:36 GMT 2
Time for a new harness?
Tjeers
Steve
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bobbyd
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Post by bobbyd on Aug 18, 2013 2:14:47 GMT 2
One thing that did cause a bit of confusion was in the wireing diagrams where the ignition is drawn and key positions represented with lines and dots Im sure the lines and dots are incorrect, Other peoples opinions on that would be great. Alt, starter and voltage regulator have always been disconnected to remove them from the equation. I have a few plans of attack for this afternoon which should wrap up a few issues I reckon, the weather here is hideous and Im working outside so that always adds a touch of class to the whole adventure! I will post up my results later tonight. B
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Aug 18, 2013 6:18:23 GMT 2
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bobbyd
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Post by bobbyd on Aug 18, 2013 8:08:53 GMT 2
A quick post, The short seems to be in wires on the back of fuse 9. each of the three wires create the same voltage drop, One wire goes to the reverse switch on the gearbox. One goes to the brake fluid,no charge relay, idle jet. One goes to the hazard light switch,dash main plug. What do these three circuits have in common? fuel gauge is working, low oil pressure light is on.
The wire on fuse 9 which goes to the dash also has a red wire put in, I have another small pink wire which was connected to the old ign barrel in pos 16,and a relay in the 15 wire from the ign barrel, rumour has it these were to stop the starter engageing if the low brake fluid light came on.
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Post by ronnie on Aug 18, 2013 8:26:02 GMT 2
Hi Bob
Does the Niva actually start ?. If the battery shows a big V drop you should see a flash as you touch the wire to the connection.
Ronnie
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Aug 18, 2013 10:11:51 GMT 2
disconnect the hazard light switch and the reverse light switch and go from there. Both are known to brake down. Does the no charge relay work?
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bobbyd
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Post by bobbyd on Aug 18, 2013 10:37:49 GMT 2
The hazard light switch,no charge relay,brake fluid level,idle jet, the reverse light switch and the main plug behind the dash are disconnected while I have been sussing through this. I have separated each of the 3 wires on the back of fuse 9 so I cant touch them separately to the fuse to see which circuit was createing the voltage drop but all three of them create the same drop which down to 2.80v from battery voltage The Niva wont start I only have 2.80 volts at the starter solenoid. My original ign barrel was nothing like the one in Belgiums pic but my new one is the same as the pic. Here is the wiring diagram www.ladaniva.co.uk/baxter/resources/Niva_wiring.htm
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bobbyd
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Post by bobbyd on Aug 18, 2013 10:43:45 GMT 2
My old barrel
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Aug 18, 2013 11:08:19 GMT 2
clean or replace the plug near the battery (at left hand drive) with the pink wires. Your Niva is an early 1600? Do you get 12V at the barrel? The main relay is still ok?
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Post by ronnie on Aug 18, 2013 18:30:42 GMT 2
Hi Bob
The first thing I would do is make sure the battery is 100%. It is not enough to check the battery voltage. It must be done under load.
Ronnie
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bobbyd
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Post by bobbyd on Aug 19, 2013 11:47:27 GMT 2
Thanks Belguim, I have cleaned that plug/terminal. 1993 Niva. Thanks Ronnie, Battery is holding voltage and I have it on a trickle charger each night. I have 12 volts at the IGN barrel with the key off, 12 volts in pos 1, 2.88 volts in pos 2 (run), and 2.88 volts in pos 3 (crank). I haven't tested it under load but I am going to replace it as I have to rule it out. Todays progress which has proven to be fruitfull, The voltage drop is not in the fluid/relay/regulator/jet wire. There is a voltage drop in the hazard/dash wire, unplugging the hazard plug does nothing but unplug the main dash plug and the voltage comes back up! where as unplugging this yesterday did nothing, the short stayed? ? There is a voltage drop in the reverse switch wire which is unplugged and this afternoon I traced it right from the switch, under the floor, through the dash, and to the fuse and could find nothing that would indicate an issue. Tomorrows plan, 1/replace the wire to the reverse light. 2/plug in main dash plug and unplug each other plug one by one even though I did this the other day and got nowhere I will do it again. I will put in another hour tomorrow. B
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Post by ronnie on Aug 19, 2013 12:25:47 GMT 2
Hi Bob
I would expect to see more than 12 volts from a battery that has been on charge all night. Try a battery out of another vehicle first. It would amaze you how many faults are found to be caused by the battery and yours reminds me of a bad battery. I could be wrong, but when you get the variety of faults you have the battery should be tested under load. The starter would be the best load you could use. If you have a genuine fault that can draw the voltage down to 2.88 volts you would blow the fuse on a fused circuit, or if it is not fused you would melt the insulation on the wire.
Ronnie
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bobbyd
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Post by bobbyd on Aug 20, 2013 21:12:57 GMT 2
After a bit of tinkering last night I think you are right Ronnie, if I put the battery under any load the voltage just disappears, I will try another battery over the next few days.
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Aug 21, 2013 6:44:43 GMT 2
bobby, difficult to make a diagnose from the other side of the world, but i believe you have a huge short circuit. This could be in the starter, the alt (or regulator) or the igintion barrel. You are VERY sure the battery is ok? as i suspected from the beginning
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bobbyd
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Post by bobbyd on Sept 9, 2013 11:20:58 GMT 2
Running like a dream!
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Sept 9, 2013 11:27:09 GMT 2
So what was the eventual fault?
Tjeers
Steve
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bobbyd
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Post by bobbyd on Sept 9, 2013 13:17:37 GMT 2
A few shorts and the battery
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bobbyd
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Post by bobbyd on Sept 15, 2013 11:06:57 GMT 2
Today I went for a burn around the block, heaps more grunt than the old lada engine, heaps more. Starts easy,runs sweet,nice all round really. Thanks to all for their input. Electrical problems that remain are no indicators and the Alt isn't charging which shouldn't be biggies.
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bobbyd
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Post by bobbyd on Sept 25, 2013 11:59:24 GMT 2
I went for a bigger blast this afternoon as I had my thermo fan wired up. WOW very nice to burn around in now I only did a few 80kph blast with some 5000 rpm action chucked in. I cant wait till I realign the G/B and the T/C
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Post by Deleted on Sept 25, 2013 18:25:19 GMT 2
That's great news bobby. Here's hoping that you now have many trouble free miles now
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