spikes
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Post by spikes on Mar 20, 2013 7:12:52 GMT 2
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Mar 24, 2013 8:21:45 GMT 2
Hi Koos
Any news?
Spikes
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Koos
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Post by Koos on Mar 25, 2013 9:26:33 GMT 2
Hi Spikes, Fixed the vacuum pipe fitting on the TBI, put them in the right order, and replaced plug wire. Still nothing... I also took a wire directly from the ECU port D16 to the injector, but it gives me the same test result. Think this is beyond my abilities to fix... Will contact the GM service center today and find out whether they will be able to test the system since it is GM components. Regards, Koos
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Mar 26, 2013 8:41:41 GMT 2
Thanks for the feedback, Koos
One last item. Are all the earth wires clean and properly connected? ECU and sensors are heavily dependent on fully closed electrical circuits(not just on the NIVA)
Good luck
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Mar 26, 2013 9:04:41 GMT 2
this could sound stupid, but did you check the fuses at the left hand foot panel? (where the ecu sits)
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Koos
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Post by Koos on Mar 26, 2013 10:43:43 GMT 2
Hi Jan, All the fuses look fine, I even moved each of them a little to make sure there is contact. I've made that mistake before, and after a few hours I wanted to kick myself. Will let you guys know as soon as I get it sorted. Koos
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Apr 2, 2013 14:47:01 GMT 2
I have combined the thread that Spencer started and that which Koos recently had a problem with here:
Spikes
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Koos
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Post by Koos on Apr 2, 2013 21:56:38 GMT 2
Ok, so...
The problem was the crankshaft pulley, it was coming loose and therefore the crankshaft sensor wasn't picking up the pulley rotation/position. Pulley back in position, purrs like a kitten.
Just needed another set of eyes (with more experienced) to spot it.
Damn coincidences... Was lucky I suppose, could have been a lot worse than just the engine not starting.
Thanks for all the feedback.
Regards, Koos
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Apr 3, 2013 6:26:51 GMT 2
Glad that lot is sorted, then!
Spikes
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Koos
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Post by Koos on May 8, 2013 17:58:07 GMT 2
Hi,
Bought a OBDII diagnostics tool and I'm waiting for the OBDI attachment, will let you know if it works.
Total cost was about R250.
Regards,
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on May 8, 2013 18:03:51 GMT 2
would be surprised if it works, but i will be following this very closely
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spikes
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Post by spikes on May 8, 2013 18:38:23 GMT 2
Me too, me too
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tmullet
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Post by tmullet on Jun 6, 2013 18:26:30 GMT 2
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Jun 6, 2013 18:56:54 GMT 2
Thanks Ettienne!
I'll stick the number onto the Maintenance Spares list. Will you please confirm whether it fits perfectly or if any modifications were needed
Did you use the on-board Engine warning light for the diagnostics or have you found the "holy grail" = scanner that can read OBD I ?
Spikes
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tmullet
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Post by tmullet on Jun 6, 2013 19:15:19 GMT 2
Used the EC Light. Will let you know about the Part
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Jun 6, 2013 20:26:11 GMT 2
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tmullet
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Post by tmullet on Jun 6, 2013 20:30:35 GMT 2
I'll report back tomorrow. Thanks for the link spikes!
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Koos
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Post by Koos on Jun 10, 2013 9:55:59 GMT 2
Hi, Bought a OBDII diagnostics tool and I'm waiting for the OBDI attachment, will let you know if it works. Total cost was about R250. Regards, Ok, so I finally received all the cables. It also seems that it might actually work, but I had I slight oversight. I didn't think about the software... It seems that I need to have OBD1 specific software (which I have found). Will give update as soon as I get around to test it. Regards, Koos
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Jun 10, 2013 10:02:45 GMT 2
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tmullet
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Post by tmullet on Jun 10, 2013 10:25:49 GMT 2
I'll report back tomorrow. Thanks for the link spikes! Managed to get the universal lambda sensor but i have not installed it yet. It comes with a joint kit which means that the old plug will be re-used. Apparently (according to the parts salesman) you have to ensure that you maintain the same sensor wiring harnass length and that you should not solder the joint (it comes with crimp connectors and a waterproof joint housing). I reset the on board diagnostics on Friday and will check if error 45 is logged again after all my weekend driving. The fuel consumption is killing me! I'll have to re-check the fuel system for leaks as there is a strong fuel smell after filling up the tank, it's impossible to only get 200km on a full tank!
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Jun 10, 2013 10:34:35 GMT 2
Thanks Ettienne!
My fuel consumption on the open road is around 10km/l On Forestry roads around 9km/l (rarely get into 4th)
Spikes
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Post by marius on Jun 10, 2013 13:58:41 GMT 2
Hi Ettienne
That sounds like quite a serious leak. Apart from the rear seat and anything underneath it you will have to remove the rear inside panel on the right hand side to check all the connections. Could even be rust on the filler pipe or the tank? The usual problem is normally the fuel vapour reservoir but it is unlikely to be the only problem with such bad consumption.
Marius
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tmullet
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Post by tmullet on Jun 10, 2013 14:09:06 GMT 2
Thanks Marius, I had the vapour seperator replaced and all the connections around the fuel tank checked by Chris Swales - I'll probably have to take the vehicle back to him for a 3rd time as I'm still getting a fuel smell when the tank is over 1/2 full.
I suspect an issue around the filler pipe - any idea what it would cost to get the fuel tank repaired propperly (if at all possible)
or else, any idea of costs for a new fuel tank?
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Koos
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Post by Koos on Jun 10, 2013 16:43:24 GMT 2
One of the nipples on my tank that connects to the seperator broke off because the covering plate was pressing against it (quite a lot of weight if someone is also on the back seat). Mine was also difficult to spot because the nipple breaks off, but because the bottom part is ball shaped it stays in place and you can't really see the difference until you realize you can move it around.
Regards, Koos
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Post by marius on Jun 10, 2013 19:33:40 GMT 2
Hi Ettienne
If you don't see any bad rust I suspect that your real issue could well be the rubber coupling between the tank and the filler pipe that has perished or punctured. Fuel tanks should be fairly easy to repair professionally but I have no idea what it will cost you.
Marius
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Jun 10, 2013 20:45:36 GMT 2
I got a price from Silverton radiators recently to clean and recoat my tank a few months ago. Came in at about R5000 and 3 weeks.
Tjeers
Steve
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