spikes
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Post by spikes on Mar 11, 2013 15:15:30 GMT 2
Mail sent 13:52
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Koos
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Post by Koos on Mar 13, 2013 10:40:26 GMT 2
Hi, Jan and Spikes, I think I found the problem in the manual after looking for something else. It seems there is a sensor on the output shaft of the TC that assists in controlling the idle air control. And since I was fiddling there after I tested the spark plugs, that will probably be a good place to start. Damn sensors everywhere, would never have thought to look there. Will let you guys know what the result is. Thanks.
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Mar 13, 2013 10:56:41 GMT 2
Also check the sensors on the TBI unit itself and then the rubber pipes leading to the MAF sensor. That is the black box behind the clutch fluid reservoir. minimal q20 or similar spray into the connectors can also help. My money is still on the FPR sensor
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Mar 14, 2013 6:40:20 GMT 2
Koos, a niva TBI (and MPI) will run without speed sensor
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Koos
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Post by Koos on Mar 14, 2013 10:26:30 GMT 2
One of the spark plug wires is dead. Don't ask... Got new one this morning, will replace tonight.
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Mar 14, 2013 11:08:48 GMT 2
don't get your hopes up. A TBI will run on 2 cilinders...
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Mar 14, 2013 11:25:00 GMT 2
don't get your hopes up. A TBI will run on 2 cilinders... My mantra is to leave what is working alone, but as a matter of interest, how does one remove the ignition wires from the module? regards Spikes
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Mar 14, 2013 11:25:13 GMT 2
so will a carb
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Mar 14, 2013 12:09:26 GMT 2
I have run a carb on 3 cylinders for about 10Km's and Ari says he ran his on 2 cylinders for about the same distance.
Tjeers
Steve
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Mar 14, 2013 17:58:13 GMT 2
just pull them off. You might want to turn them a little in the progress, they can be very stuck
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Mar 14, 2013 18:49:16 GMT 2
Koos, have an MPI here now with a similar problem. Starts when cold, idle is rough, very little power, seems to flood. After 1 minute or so it stalls and does not start again. Problem seems to be a clogged catalytic converter. There's very little to none exhaust pressure at the end of the exhaust and there's a rambling noise in de cat
Will know more tomorrow.
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Mar 14, 2013 18:52:45 GMT 2
just pull them off. You might want to turn them a little in the progress, they can be very stuck Thanks, Jan. I will leave that for the time being Spikes
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Koos
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Post by Koos on Mar 15, 2013 9:43:10 GMT 2
Don't worry, got rid of the previous post. Here it is... Didn't work on the Lada last night, but you guys did get me thinking. I would agree that one plug should not prevent the Lada from starting, but what if the starter motor is on the way out? Would that make one dead plug more significant? Btw, the "Check Engine" warning should go on if any of the sensors are malfunctioning right? There was no rough idling or any indication that something was wrong prior to this. Just changed the plugs because it hasn't been done in the last 12 months. The engine doesn't start at all, the motor turns, there is fuel, spark on three plugs . Will see if I can figure it out over the weekend. Koos
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Mar 15, 2013 11:02:55 GMT 2
The Engine light should come on when the ignition is switched on and go out almost immediately if all is OK.
For starters, disconnect the battery and leave it disconnected overnight. Tap the brake pedal to clear any residual current. Then connect the battery. The ECU module will now be reset to all sensors clear.(from ladanivabelgium forum)
Fuel smell still a main concern for me. Is it in the car or in the engine compartment that you smell fuel?
If in the car quite likely leak on vapour separation tank.
Spikes
Ps. Charge the battery overnight
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Koos
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Post by Koos on Mar 15, 2013 11:10:18 GMT 2
Fuel smell is gone, I think the engine was flooded originally, but after leaving it overnight with the plugs removed, it seems fine. Even after trying to start it a couple of times.
Planning on charging the battery tonight, it is almost dead from all the struggling. So will disconnect and leave like that overnight, and reset.
Thanks, Koos
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Mar 15, 2013 16:49:29 GMT 2
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Mar 15, 2013 19:55:10 GMT 2
Jan,
Would that NIVA not have shown a loss of power with that severely blocked cat?
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Mar 16, 2013 5:46:11 GMT 2
Spikes, it would, but i never drove it before. It's a new customer
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Mar 16, 2013 6:29:21 GMT 2
Spikes, it would, but i never drove it before. It's a new customer Thanks, Jan.
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Mar 16, 2013 17:53:57 GMT 2
Hi Koos, OBD1 only scanners work
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Mar 16, 2013 19:16:38 GMT 2
Hi Koos
Darrel, in Gordon's Bay did quite a bit of diagnostic work on their 1.7i. Perhaps he can help eliminate issues. Spencer in JHB ditto.
Have to ask, did you connect a test light as described in step 6? This step does not refer to the EW light. I will e-mail you link to test harness's that are available. Good luck
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Koos
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Post by Koos on Mar 17, 2013 9:18:50 GMT 2
Hi Spikes,
For step 6 I connected a multimeter to the injector plug, as soon as I turn on the ignition it spikes for about 2 seconds, then it goes back to normal.
I wasn't sure about the testing light, finding things in those PDFs are a mission without the search function. I assume testing the current with a mulitimeter should be sufficient.
Regards, Koos
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Mar 17, 2013 10:23:42 GMT 2
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Koos
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Post by Koos on Mar 19, 2013 10:05:00 GMT 2
Hi, Could someone please confirm the accuracy of the attached diagram. Besides the nipple at (d) being broken off on my tbi, it was also connected to the canister purge hose and not the crankcase ventilation hose as indicated in the diagram. So I just want to confirm that the attached layout is correct since the Lada has been running for quite a while with a different setup. Thanks, Koos
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Mar 19, 2013 13:21:41 GMT 2
Mine is connected as per diagram IE "c" takes the canister purge hose and "d" is connected as far as I can make out to the MAF sensor. My lead light fused as I plugged it in.
Nice diagram! Where are they from?
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Mar 19, 2013 13:34:24 GMT 2
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Mar 19, 2013 13:54:13 GMT 2
Spikes, seems like you know the manuals backwards.
Tjeers
Steve
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Mar 19, 2013 15:08:40 GMT 2
They linked from Baxters site Spikes.
Tjeers
Steve
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Mar 19, 2013 18:53:30 GMT 2
Thanks Koos and Steve.
Hope you get the NIVA sorted out Koos.
Spikes
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Mar 19, 2013 19:29:31 GMT 2
koos, did you not get my answers to your mails?
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