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Post by ronnie on Feb 25, 2013 10:28:01 GMT 2
Hi Bob
Nice to see you on the Forum again it has been a while, in fact over a year ;D
Ronnie
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bobbyd
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Post by bobbyd on Mar 17, 2013 8:12:05 GMT 2
Yeah Ronnie Im back, Life has not been kind to me of late. BD
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Mar 17, 2013 9:25:57 GMT 2
Sorry it aint been good to you, lets hope things get better going forward.
Tjeers
Steve
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Post by ronnie on Mar 17, 2013 10:03:33 GMT 2
Hi Bob
Sorry to hear things have not been good lately, hope all is well now and we will hear more from you.
Ronnie
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Mar 17, 2013 10:25:06 GMT 2
Hi Bob
Hope all is well now!
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butasteve
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Post by butasteve on May 20, 2013 14:28:53 GMT 2
Dear All Good day I've bought a Front Wheel Hub from a Lada Owner to replace the Hub on our Lada (Ladaschka. I went to a Machanic in Paarl @ PBCto have the Five (5) studs removed and the Brake Disks skimmed. He asked me to bring the Complete Stub Axle and the Hubs together with the New Disks because it needs to be Pressed and that the Wheelbearing should "Tight-Fit" on the Hub Shaft to prevent it from turning on the Shaft. A Hydrolic Press should be used to put the Hubs back.
Do you use a Hydrolic Press to put the Front Hubs back after replacing the Wheelbearings? I explained to him that I can just pull the Hubs out after removing the Nut on the CV Joint. He said that I need a new set of Front Hubs.
Am I missing something? I've tightened the Nut after replacing the Bearings,and undo it just enough to rotate the Front Wheel by hand. But now it sounds as if the RH Brake Disks is touching someting metal when I corner Left. Will remove the Wheel again after work...
Please help
Regards
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on May 20, 2013 14:58:49 GMT 2
Hi
For one, the hubs are not properly torqued, I will look for the torqueing instructions n the manual later on and send them to you.
I think it was Ventz who said you should not skim the Niva discs as they are allready thin, rather replace them, there are local replacements available.
The only place you might need a hydralic press is to get the bearing in and subsequently the hub, but I did it by hand when I did it.
As for the metal noise, check that the covers did not get bent and are touching something on cornering.
Tjeers
Steve
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butasteve
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Post by butasteve on May 20, 2013 16:25:29 GMT 2
Thanks Steve
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on May 20, 2013 18:35:28 GMT 2
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butasteve
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Post by butasteve on May 21, 2013 8:30:37 GMT 2
Hi Steve Good morning
Thanks a mil Much appreciated
Regards Stephen
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on May 29, 2013 6:11:33 GMT 2
i never use a hydraulic press to put the hubs back. When you need to use a press, something is wrong. As for torquening the nuts after having them removed: put the nut as tight as you can, while turning the wheel. Then loosen it again and tighten it once more so that there is JUST no play on the bearing when it's cold. DO NOT give it an extra turn to 'make sure'. Check after 500 miles or so and then every 6000 miles
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spikes
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Post by spikes on May 29, 2013 6:17:13 GMT 2
i never use a hydraulic press to put the hubs back. When you need to use a press, something is wrong. As for torquening the nuts after having them removed: put the nut as tight as you can, while turning the wheel. Then loosen it again and tighten it once more so that there is JUST no play on the bearing when it's cold. DO NOT give it an extra turn to 'make sure'. Check after 500 miles or so and then every 6000 miles Would you recommend Nyloc nuts and how often would you replace them if you do use them?
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on May 29, 2013 6:25:26 GMT 2
i use the original nuts. I replace them when the lock ring is used at too many spots. I would'nt use nylocs, especially not on the right side of the car
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spikes
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Post by spikes on May 29, 2013 6:36:04 GMT 2
i use the original nuts. I replace them when the lock ring is used at too many spots. I would'nt use nylocs, especially not on the right side of the car Thanks Jan! I must say the adjustment method described in the manual never made any sense to me.
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Roons
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Post by Roons on Jun 8, 2013 20:14:56 GMT 2
Found seals for my sisters lada front hubs at seal center pta. Perfect fit and they are silicone so they can take the heat.
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Jun 9, 2013 6:48:21 GMT 2
Found seals for my sisters lada front hubs at seal center pta. Perfect fit and they are silicone so they can take the heat. Hi Ruan Do you perhaps have detailed information on the seals? Thanks Spikes
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Post by marius on Jun 9, 2013 10:30:40 GMT 2
i never use a hydraulic press to put the hubs back. When you need to use a press, something is wrong. As for torquening the nuts after having them removed: put the nut as tight as you can, while turning the wheel. Then loosen it again and tighten it once more so that there is JUST no play on the bearing when it's cold. DO NOT give it an extra turn to 'make sure'. Check after 500 miles or so and then every 6000 miles After you removed the brake caliper and the nut you should be able to easily pull the hub by hand. I have also fairly recently learned that the instruction above is the way to do the clearance. Pay particular attention to the "DO NOT" part Marius
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Jun 9, 2013 11:08:20 GMT 2
Ruan, those seal specs and part number would be greatly appreciated and where to get them, I need to do mine soon when I put my front diff back in the next few weeks.
Just need to repair a bent rim and replace the satelite gears in my rear diff with are currently in detention along with a new gear box and a few other parts.
Tjeers
Steve
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Roons
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Post by Roons on Jun 9, 2013 21:10:12 GMT 2
This is written on my invoice ... 23/16/x27/8x3/8tc8117860 very bad handwriting.I will stop by there and ask him to give me some clear details. There are two places that have them. Seal center pta and bearing net silverton.
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Post by spikes on Jun 10, 2013 6:40:42 GMT 2
Thanks Ruan! Will wait for further details.
Spikes
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Roons
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Post by Roons on Jun 11, 2013 8:56:18 GMT 2
Ok. 2&3/16 x 2&7/8 x 3/8 TC Bearing net Silverton has stock. I took the last 4 from Seal Center pta but they said they will get more soon. Paid R250 for the 4 seals but they are silicone so they are a bit expensive. Ruan
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Jun 11, 2013 9:44:51 GMT 2
Roons please let us know how they work out for you, the original seals from Pavel are $3 a seal so roughly R123 plus postage for all 4. Tjeers Steve
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Roons
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Post by Roons on Jun 11, 2013 9:59:39 GMT 2
Steve, Seal Center will get the normal black seals in and they are much cheaper.
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Jun 11, 2013 10:52:23 GMT 2
Ok. 2&3/16 x 2&7/8 x 3/8 TC Bearing net Silverton has stock. I took the last 4 from Seal Center pta but they said they will get more soon. Paid R250 for the 4 seals but they are silicone so they are a bit expensive. Ruan Thanks Ruan! The information will go into the next update of the Maintenance Spares list Spikes
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Post by marius on Jun 11, 2013 10:59:29 GMT 2
Steve, Seal Center will get the normal black seals in and they are much cheaper. Good to know! Thanks Roons
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Jun 11, 2013 19:15:28 GMT 2
Steve, Seal Center will get the normal black seals in and they are much cheaper. Thanks Ruan Tjeers Steve
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