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Post by marius on Sept 28, 2010 15:59:19 GMT 2
Hi Des
Have you got a parts number?
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Des
Junior Niva Petrol Head
Bruce All Mighty
Posts: 91
Registered: Jan 20, 2010 10:35:37 GMT 2
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Post by Des on Sept 28, 2010 16:30:35 GMT 2
Hi Marius I have asked my boet to get it. Will come back to you.
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Post by danie on Sept 28, 2010 21:50:00 GMT 2
My Brothers' Lada univ joint in front off the xfer box had some play. His Mech matched the size to..... believe it or not........ wait for it........ a John Deere tractor univ joint .... I found this quite unbelievable. Maar daar het julle dit. I assume the other univ joints are all the same size. Hi Des This is indeed very interesting ! Those John Deere UJ's should last for ever ! Regards Danie
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deon
New Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 3
Registered: Oct 9, 2010 14:44:40 GMT 2
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Post by deon on Oct 12, 2010 19:11:36 GMT 2
Hi,
Can anyone give me advice on a replacement outer CV joint? The original is very overpriced +- R3000.
Thanks
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Post by marius on Oct 12, 2010 19:53:48 GMT 2
Hi Deon
It is possible to order spares directly from Russia and the EU at very competative prices.
Regards Marius
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deon
New Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 3
Registered: Oct 9, 2010 14:44:40 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
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Post by deon on Oct 12, 2010 20:34:38 GMT 2
Thank Marius, I'll try that. I was just worried about the weight and the courier cost involved, but I will look into it.
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Post by marius on Oct 12, 2010 20:57:53 GMT 2
Hi Deon I think you will be pleasantly surprised
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Post by ronnie on Oct 28, 2010 19:11:41 GMT 2
Hi Danie You mentioned on your last visit about removing the air intake to the heater unit and making the heater recirculate the air inside the vehicle. I have tried this and can confirm there is a lot of hot air comes from the bonnet grill when the engine is running which should aid cooling. I managed with difficulty to cut the side of the heater box above the heater matrix so it can draw the air from inside. This would be easier and neater if the heater was removed first. I must apologize for the finish of the silicone but I think it was too old as it was skinning over before I could smooth it off. Ronnie Attachments:
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Post by Charles on Oct 28, 2010 20:27:07 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie
That is a intresting mod. Why did you do it and would you maybe post a pic ttomorrow of where you cut the box? With what did you cut it?
Charles
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Post by danie on Oct 29, 2010 6:16:16 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie
I found the heater fan quite useless in our local (Durban) warm weather conditions. That's why I started thinking rather to get hold of doors with small windows in future, and to remove the air intake to the heater.
I thought if the air intake to the heater has been removed, hot air under the engine bay would escape via the grill, and this could also prevent overheating while driving in slow traffic.
Regards
Danie
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Post by ronnie on Oct 29, 2010 8:37:04 GMT 2
Hi Charles
Danie suggested this so check his post this morning. My reasons differed as I found hot air bleeding through the unit all the time when moving even after adjusting all the flaps and making sure the water valve was hopefully closed which obviously it was not. Now, no air will flow without the fan running. I drilled each side of the heater unit above the heater matrix with a 25 and 32 mm hole saw. The hole saw must be able to drill deep as there are thick moldings to go through. Rather take the heater out and clean everything and cut the FRONT of the box as it will be easier. Too late to take a pic as it is all sealed up. AS Danie suggested there is a lot of hot air escaping through the vents now.
Ronnie
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Post by ronnie on Oct 29, 2010 8:42:04 GMT 2
Hi Danie
Wither this will help the engine heat remains to be seen. I agree the heater works fine but as for it blowing cool air it is useless. With holes cut above the heater matrix it now recirculates the air in the car when used mainly for heat.
Ronnie
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Post by Charles on Oct 29, 2010 10:04:20 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie
I am very tempted to do tis mod. I newer use my interior fan to try and cool the car down because it doesnt work. I like the idea of the hot air being able to escape from under the bonnet. Also I think the engine bay looks alot better without the air box. Now leaves and water can never get into your interior fan.
Charles
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Post by Charles on Oct 29, 2010 10:06:36 GMT 2
On my car the ball joints and tie rod ends are still fine but the boots are torn. CDan one somewhere get boots alone? Also the ball joints and tie rod ends, are the avalible aftermarket or only at Ventz?
Charles
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Post by Charles on Oct 29, 2010 16:08:36 GMT 2
Hi guys
Tie rod ends one can get aftermarket. Not sure about the ball joints. They are still finding out for me.
Charles
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Post by ronnie on Oct 29, 2010 16:12:51 GMT 2
Hi Charles If you do the mod nicely it is reversible. All you would need to do is close the hole above the matrix and reinstall the air box. I try where possible to make the mods reversible Ronnie
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Post by ronnie on Oct 29, 2010 16:14:21 GMT 2
Hi Charles
I got boots at the local spares shop. Just take a sample and you should have no problem.
Ronnie
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Post by danie on Oct 29, 2010 17:35:56 GMT 2
My reasons differed as I found hot air bleeding through the unit all the time when moving even after adjusting all the flaps Hi Ronnie I also experienced the same problem - hot air leaking through all the time. Regards Danie Danie
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Post by ronnie on Oct 29, 2010 17:43:19 GMT 2
Hi Danie
if you do this mod you will not have that problem again as the only way air can get through is if the fan is running. I think you said you would have you Lada running by Christmas, it is now only weeks away. Perhaps I misunderstood and it is not this year but next year? ;D ;D ;D
Ronnie
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Post by Charles on Oct 29, 2010 17:44:17 GMT 2
HI Ronnie
In that case I will definitely do the mod. Where you able to get tie rod end and ball joints boots? I can get tie rod ends for R118 a set before discount. Is that a good price?
Charles
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Post by ronnie on Oct 29, 2010 17:51:40 GMT 2
Hi Charles Yes I managed to get boots for both. I would be interested in the part nos of the track rod ends for my records. Remember to drill and put grease nipples in if they do not have, then they should last for ever. Ronnie
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Post by Charles on Oct 29, 2010 17:55:13 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie
Will ask monday for part numbers. Maybe they have found ball joints by that time aswell. I will put grease nipples in. The Lh side allready have in but whoever put them in didn't do the RH side. Wonder why. If I have enough money I would like to get new inner and outer tie rod ends and ball joints. (If they can find balljoints)
Charles
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Post by ronnie on Nov 1, 2010 18:47:41 GMT 2
Hi All After removing the air box I was left with 1 spare lever on the heater control panel.(the bottom one). I have now used it to open and close the manual flap on the bottom of the heater. Ronnie Attachments:
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Post by Charles on Nov 1, 2010 19:00:13 GMT 2
Ronnie the part numbers for the balljoints and tie rod ends are useless as the are no longer avalible. Struggled to find boots today. Ronnie can you remember what sizes you used? I have a guy that wil spesial order them for me.
Charles
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Post by ronnie on Nov 1, 2010 19:07:52 GMT 2
Hi Charles
The only one I can give you nos for is the track rod end boots.-----ARJO RANE DC 32. Hope this helps. I thought I lived in the back woods, looks as if it is not so bad here after all ;D
Ronnie
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Post by Charles on Nov 1, 2010 19:36:04 GMT 2
Thank you
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Post by Charles on Nov 1, 2010 20:08:05 GMT 2
Does anybody know how much a set of balljoints are from Ventz?
Charles
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Post by ronnie on Nov 2, 2010 8:16:34 GMT 2
Hi Charles
I am sure Ventz will only be too glad to sell you a set of ball joints at a good price. ;D
Ronnie
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Post by ronnie on Nov 5, 2010 18:59:51 GMT 2
Hi All The hot water valve for the heater is in an unfortunate position under the dashboard. Mine always was tight to operate so I have fitted one in the engine compartment instead. Unfortunately I do not know what vehicle it is off as it was lying in the garage. It very well may be off a Golf. The old valve is still inside in the open position . Now that I know that it works correctly, I will remove the original as soon as I buy some hose and new anti freeze. I should mention, now that I have stripped out the original operating cable, it was a large part of the problem as even with no valve connected it is hard to move. I have made a new longer cable for the new valve. Ronnie
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Post by Charles on Nov 5, 2010 19:38:46 GMT 2
Very nice mod Ronnie.
Charles
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