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Post by Deleted on Sept 3, 2013 15:59:30 GMT 2
Oops I misunderstood
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Sept 3, 2013 16:34:00 GMT 2
Thats ok Conrad, anyway I don't drink beer.
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Sept 3, 2013 18:36:24 GMT 2
Hi Ari, The cracks in the cages have been welded, new boots and new grease fitted but they are still making a noise. btw I think Jan and Steve will disagree with your tutorial. None of the steps mention beer It is a natural rule, any work on a Lada involves beer, just ask ladanivabelgiumTjeers Steve
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Sept 3, 2013 22:01:18 GMT 2
jup jup as in 'yep' and jup as in 'jupiler'
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ik
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Post by ik on Sept 10, 2013 11:30:17 GMT 2
Hi Ari How do i raze my lada like yours I got a 98 Lada 1.7!
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Sept 10, 2013 11:41:54 GMT 2
You need to buy or make a spacer kit. Remember that the back prop will work at an exagerated angle so your driveline will work a bit harder. Also to raise the ground clearance you will need to fit higher (NOT WIDER) tyres to lift the back axle.
I will add detail tonight
Ari
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Hanno Oostenbrink
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Post by Hanno Oostenbrink on Sept 11, 2013 18:00:40 GMT 2
Hi Guys,
I think my inner cv joint has gone. I hear a clunking sound when driving. Also when I reverse with the wheel fully turned I hear a loud popping sound which does not sound healthy at all.
I tugged on both my cv shafts and it seems that I can reproduce the clunking sound on my one inner cv joint.
Any advice or tips? I am still bit of a novice mechanic but keen to learn
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Sept 11, 2013 18:58:03 GMT 2
Hanno refer to page 2 of this thread on how to replace a boot. This will at least get the cv out so you can have a look at it. If it is a daily runner you would have to take her off the road while you wait for spares. But get new boots anyway to put on as there may be no damage other than a lack of grease. I would crawl underneath to look for a broken boot.
Tjeers
Steve
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Hanno Oostenbrink
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Post by Hanno Oostenbrink on Sept 15, 2013 15:15:59 GMT 2
Yes steve, seems that the boot is torn indeed. I see on this thread a few different recommendations for boot size, which one is best? What grease should I use? As always, thx for the advice
Sent from my ST27i using proboards
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Sept 15, 2013 16:50:37 GMT 2
Hi Ari How do i raze my lada like yours I got a 98 Lada 1.7! You will need spacers at the back coils and shocks and spacers or wedges for the front coils as well as balljoint spacers. Ari Look on Baxters for ideas
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Hanno Oostenbrink
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Post by Hanno Oostenbrink on Sept 27, 2013 12:56:50 GMT 2
Hi guys I am going to replace my boots this weekend but I strongly suspect the inner joint needing replacement as there is some play on it if I tug the shaft. Is there aftermarket joints I can buy or where can I find one?
Cheerz Hanno
Sent from my ST27i using proboards
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Sept 27, 2013 13:13:45 GMT 2
Hi Hanno You might be able to get CV from Ventzel (details in spare parts suppliers thread)or reg (pm him) otherwise www.ladapower.comBoots part number is CV27K (please check page 1 or 2 of this thread I am not 100% sure) available locally at auto spares shops. Tjeers Steve
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Sept 27, 2013 15:37:06 GMT 2
Hi Hanno OostenbrinkThe inner joint needs to have movement on it for when the side shaft pushes in and out when the wheel moves up and down Ari
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hoodoo
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Post by hoodoo on Sept 27, 2013 19:46:04 GMT 2
The main question is: "Are they making a clicking noise on corners?" If not, I would be inclined to clean them up, regrease and replace the boots. A certain amount of in - out movement is essential to accommodate the suspension movement, so, unless rattling all over the place, probably nothing to worry about. Regards, John
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Hanno Oostenbrink
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Post by Hanno Oostenbrink on Sept 27, 2013 22:00:57 GMT 2
Hi guys, Took the side shaft out and had a look so long at the inner joint, I see it has some substantial wear on it. how seriuous does it look? Does it need replacing?
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Sept 28, 2013 7:16:06 GMT 2
it will last for many more miles, but it will make noise under load
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Hanno Oostenbrink
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Post by Hanno Oostenbrink on Sept 28, 2013 7:19:45 GMT 2
So I can still drive around with this without fear of immenent break down?
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Hanno Oostenbrink
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Post by Hanno Oostenbrink on Sept 28, 2013 7:27:44 GMT 2
The main question is: "Are they making a clicking noise on corners?" If not, I would be inclined to clean them up, regrease and replace the boots. A certain amount of in - out movement is essential to accommodate the suspension movement, so, unless rattling all over the place, probably nothing to worry about. Regards, John They are generally not noisy when driving on tar roads. I only hear them when my steering wheel is fully turned and I reverse, I then hear a lood 'paaaah' sound. Also when driving offroad on uneven terain I can hear a clicking sound
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Hanno Oostenbrink
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Post by Hanno Oostenbrink on Sept 28, 2013 10:38:15 GMT 2
Now busy replacing the boots, got everything out and regreased now just for reassembly. Ari Bezuidenhout what is the kettle used for in the step where fit the boots? I am struggling to get the metal clamp on, do you use the kettle to warm up that clamp so it gets bigger?
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Sept 28, 2013 12:43:02 GMT 2
Kettle is to heat boots so they are softer and easier to push over shafts. Hanno OostenbrinkAri
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Post by ronnie on Sept 28, 2013 15:16:10 GMT 2
Hi Hanno
I also had problems with the metal clips when I tried to reuse them. I used GOOD QUALITY cable ties and they work fine.
Ronnie
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hoodoo
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Post by hoodoo on Sept 28, 2013 19:21:40 GMT 2
Definitely support the use of cable ties. Used them for years! Regards, John
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Hanno Oostenbrink
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Post by Hanno Oostenbrink on Sept 28, 2013 21:30:53 GMT 2
used the cable ties on the larger diameters and screw-hoseclamps for the smaller ones, job all done at last. I learned two things today: replacing cv boots is a messy job and when Ari gives an estimated time to complete a job I must multiply it by 2 or 3 times Thx for all the help guys, much appreciated!
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Sept 28, 2013 21:37:28 GMT 2
Thats because I only timed myself on the 3rd attempt. practice. . . . .
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Hanno Oostenbrink
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Post by Hanno Oostenbrink on Sept 28, 2013 21:44:02 GMT 2
haha jap reckon my next try might be a bit faster than my first attempt
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Sept 29, 2013 6:25:52 GMT 2
Yup I agree. First attempt is always slow. Did you re torque the nuts correctly?
Tjeers
Steve
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Hanno Oostenbrink
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Post by Hanno Oostenbrink on Sept 29, 2013 13:55:45 GMT 2
Hi Steve Is it the procedure on pg 105 of the manual (front wheel hub bearing gap- check and adjustment)? I did not yet do that as I made the mistake of buying a torque wrench specified for 10-210 Nm and you need 6.86 Nm according to the manual Taking it to a good willed mechanic close to my house tommorow though. Btw how do you keep the hub from turning when you want to torque it? I put a nut on the one wheel stud and held that with a spanner while turning the wheel bearing bolt Thats the only bolt that needs to be torque right?
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Post by spikes on Sept 29, 2013 14:55:14 GMT 2
Hi Hanno
Ladanivabelgium(Jan) gave an explanation on setting the torque on the front wheel bearings.
Strictly speaking if you undid the front lower arm, those nuts should also be torqued as well.
The bearing tightening is at best a two man job using the brakes
Steve is laid up after a mishap.
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Sept 29, 2013 18:30:25 GMT 2
Hanno that's the correct part of the manual. spikes Thanks for the reply. You can do it as a 1 man job by lowering the car so the wheels touch the ground and jacking up again. Tjeers Steve
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Hanno Oostenbrink
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Post by Hanno Oostenbrink on Sept 29, 2013 20:22:41 GMT 2
cool thx guys, reckoned I might get a helping hand next time appreciate the advice as always cheers
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