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Post by Deleted on Apr 21, 2012 21:17:20 GMT 2
Hi all, I seem to be constantly plagued with brake issues on my car and need some advice please.
For starters the back brakes don't work very well despite having new wheel cylinders fitted,the drums skimmed and new linings fitted (They are the main reason my car kept failing roadworthy).
The second and primary issue is that my front brakes have a tendency to bind. They don't seem to do this all the time and mainly on longer trips. While on holiday over new year, it got so bad that when I stopped the car after a long run on the freeway, I couldn't pull off again.I eventually resorted to pouring water over the disks to cool them down sufficiently that I could drive again. Since then, new disks and pads have been fitted and the calipers were taking to Natal Re-sleeving where they were reconditioned with new seals etc. The only thing that hasn't been replaced or reconditioned at this point is the master cylinder. What are the chances that it responsible for the front brakes binding?
Thanks Conrad
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Roons
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Post by Roons on Apr 21, 2012 21:52:31 GMT 2
Conrad. Mine did not brake on the rear wheels. Turned out to be a stuck and rusted load sensor. If u find a way to fix the binding problem please let us know. Have a friend with a fiat x19 with the same problem. Ruan
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Post by sparky on Apr 21, 2012 22:06:56 GMT 2
been there, done that, handbrake set too high. pushrod in the booster set too high, either 1 will cause brakes to bind, remember front and rear work together (ie 1 circuit)
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darryn
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Post by darryn on Apr 21, 2012 22:36:13 GMT 2
There's a dome nut that screws in or out to make the pushrod coming out of the vacuum servo shorter or longer. Front brakes binding used to happen to me quite a lot. Ventz told me it was because the nut/rod rusts after a while and gets stuck. What I did was I put 1.5mm spacers between the vacuum servo and the master cylinder. Hasn't happened since. Also adjust your handbrake cable to catch on the third click; there's an entire thread in the technical section that discusses that in detail. That will sort out you back brakes too.
Just make sure you go through the technical section before you start up a new thread, chances are you'll find the answer you're looking for.
Hope you come right Darryn.
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Apr 22, 2012 6:28:44 GMT 2
Conrad, darryn is on the right track. First thing you should check is the position of the brake light switch and then, if that is ok and the problem is still there, you should adjust the rod between pump and servo unit If the rear brakes don't work at all the problem is 90% sure the pressure regulator. It will be broken or jammed. a tip: if you're brakes got jammed on a trip, just loosen the 2 nuts of the master cilinder a bit. Pressure will go of and you will be able to move the car. You can drive like that, but be carefull!
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Post by keithbatkins on Apr 22, 2012 9:55:18 GMT 2
Hi Conrad, and sorry to learn of you braking difficulties. Just a comment about the rear brakes. The load adjuster on CERATOTH's rear brakes has been totally removed and now the rear brakes seem to work just fine. Is this a case of 'over engineering' on Lada's part and what is the advantage, if any, of this system? It was just causing problems and I really cannot see what it did...apart from making the rear brakes sometimes not work properly. Good Luck with the brakes Conrad. Regards to all at LOCSA, Keith and CERATOTH.
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Apr 22, 2012 10:30:37 GMT 2
The rear brake load sensor stops the rear brakes locking up when you brake hard. As you brake the load is transmitted forward which is why the nose drops an the tail lifts. If your Lada has a light load only the rear brakes can lock up as the tail lifts up. The load sensor will shift the pressure in the brake hoses to the front as the tail lifts and therefore give more front brake power and less rear brake power as it is needed.
Ari
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darryn
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Post by darryn on Apr 22, 2012 12:14:56 GMT 2
The Russians were quite clever to put this mechanism on the vehicle. When it breaks though...
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Post by Charles on Apr 22, 2012 12:17:34 GMT 2
Conrad you got lots of good advice. For the brakes binding look at the master and rear brakes look at the load sensor.
Charles
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Roons
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Post by Roons on Apr 22, 2012 13:19:08 GMT 2
Conrad. I have no load sensor on my one niva. It realy locks up the rear wheels way to soon. Offroad its fine though. The load sensor realy makes the car stop faster and more contoled.
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Apr 22, 2012 14:10:54 GMT 2
Solve the problem Sharkie's way. The previous owner removed the rear brakes.
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Apr 22, 2012 14:23:50 GMT 2
Fix the load sensor and adjust the actuating rod on the booster. The sensor is most likely gummed/rusted up. It is regarded as a safety device and part of the design of the vehicle. DO NOT remove brake assemblies on any vehicle. If you are involved in an accident, that modification would immediately make you the guilty party.
Spikes
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Apr 22, 2012 14:40:00 GMT 2
I know spikes, I need to buy new as they never came with the vehicle when we got it and I wasn't aware of them being missing, Ari informed me when he had a look at the vehicle last year, so it is planned for when finances allow it.
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Apr 22, 2012 18:09:29 GMT 2
Ihar, Believe me, my post above was not aimed at you. But your post just begs to pose a question. How did you get the NIVA through RWS? Spikes
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Apr 22, 2012 18:24:11 GMT 2
I haven't, but my in-laws did, they still the legal owners. The handbrake still works but everything was removed, including the brake lines so I suspect the rws guys never knew the vehicle should have brakes all round.
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Apr 22, 2012 18:37:28 GMT 2
Did they just remove the pipes, as the handbrake works on the brake shoes?
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Apr 22, 2012 19:14:39 GMT 2
Ari would probably be able to give you a better answer than I could. I don't really know what should be there
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Apr 22, 2012 19:18:20 GMT 2
I did not look in such detail but if you post some pics I'll tell you whats missing.
Ari
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Apr 22, 2012 19:53:06 GMT 2
the pedal rear brakes work with fluid, pressed by the main cilinder. The hand brake works with cables. The one has nothing to do with the other, besides the brakeshoes themselves
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Apr 22, 2012 20:04:28 GMT 2
I will take pics when I get back from my exam tomorrow and do Charles sound recordings then as well
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Apr 22, 2012 20:08:56 GMT 2
exam?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 22, 2012 20:09:08 GMT 2
Thanks for the replies guys. Lots of useful info there that I didn't know. I'll get stuck into the brakes next weekend and let you know how I progress.
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half
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Post by half on Apr 22, 2012 22:15:13 GMT 2
I had the same problem ,front brakes keep creeping on, just started for no reason,replaced booster,still the same replaced Master cylinder, all good
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Apr 23, 2012 7:14:39 GMT 2
exam? I write a SITA project management exam at 12:30 today, its actually a pain in the ass as they have combined PMBOK and Prince 2 to create their own methodology.
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Post by marius on Apr 23, 2012 9:10:55 GMT 2
Best of luck with the exam!
Marius
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Post by spikes on Apr 23, 2012 9:26:18 GMT 2
Good luck!!
PMBOK is a pain on its own
Spikes
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Post by keithbatkins on Apr 23, 2012 10:26:09 GMT 2
Hi ihar :-) I haven't got a clue what you guys are talking about....but very best of luck with the exam. I'll also be checking with the car spares place later today to see if the letters for SHARKIE and WHITEY are in stock yet. Regards to all at LOCSA, Keith and CERATOTH ps. back to the thread.....should I really try and get a rear brake sensor refitted to CERATOTH and if so, does anybody know what I have to order from LadaPower ? Is it just the sensor or do I also need a fitting kit....if there is such a thing ? Regards to all.
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Post by spikes on Apr 23, 2012 11:16:49 GMT 2
Hi Keith See the attachment and my italics in green. The non present regulator will really only "bite" you if you are involved in a serious MV accident and insurers or prosecutors are looking for deficiencies to attach blame to a party. If the Inspectors are sharp they would pick the absence up during a RWS certification. Regards Spikes Attachments:
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Apr 23, 2012 14:57:55 GMT 2
Thanks for the good wishes for the exam, I hope I did ok, for some reason I dont feel confident.
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Post by ronnie on Apr 23, 2012 18:27:49 GMT 2
Hi Keith
If possible I would refit the rear regulator. I was lucky and got the parts from Hercules. I had the new pipes made at the local spares shop. Having it fitted definitely helps to stop rear wheel lockup. (Or it did in my case.) You can see from the spares catalog the bits required.
Ronnie
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