paulg
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Post by paulg on Nov 12, 2013 12:55:40 GMT 2
Hello chaps
Niva 1700 48,000kms
I know its hard to guess a noise without hearing it, but any suggestions would be appreciated.
A light knocking/rattling engine noise is slowly developing. When driving it can just be heard at about 2500 / 3000 rpm on light throttle (cruising), when you accelerate the noise disappears as it does if you take your foot off comletely (overrun).
In the garage, there are no noises at idle and when the revs are gently increased all is quiet except around the above rpm the rattle can just be heard. I have replaced the timing chain and tensioner, pads, etc. a while back. I don't think it is cam rattle as at idle she's quiet and the noise sounds 'deeper'.
There is little blow by at the oil filler cap and no oil consumption.
So, what do you think? My thoughts are piston wear, I think its called 'piston slap', or perhaps small ends. Do we have a weakness in the top end of Niva engines?
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Regards Paulg
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hoodoo
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Post by hoodoo on Nov 12, 2013 20:27:41 GMT 2
Although you've recently replaced the chain and tensioner etc., 2500/3000 is the rpm at which you will hear the first, barely audible noises that indicate adjustment is required. Try it first. Regards, John.
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paulg
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Post by paulg on Nov 14, 2013 12:00:07 GMT 2
Hello John I think you my be on to something. I obtained a new tensioner shoe, slipper pads and tensioner from a Lada suppler, but the shoe was a different profle to the old one. As it was supplied with an automatic tensioner I presumed it was modified and fitted it. I've thought about it and I think that the automatic tensioner is possibly at the end of its travel (because of the incorrect shoe) and the chain maybe getting slack. I've always had a nagging doubt about it as I always like to fit things which are exactly the same as the old ones.
In a week or so I think I will take the front cover off again and have a look. I'll let you kow the results.
Thanks for taking the time to post. Kind regards
Paulg
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paulg
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Post by paulg on Dec 15, 2013 21:04:24 GMT 2
Hello John, well, I stripped out the front cover and all seems in order, but I'm still unhappy with the auto tensioner, and so I've ordered an original replacement. I say this because the noise stopped for a while and slowly returned. Hmmm.
Anyway, elsewhere I think you described fitting an overide switch to your engine cooling fan. Could I ask how you wired this up and if you mind me copying you! Thanks Paul
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Dec 16, 2013 9:34:49 GMT 2
Hi Paul, Was this the auto tensioner you used? Spikes
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paulg
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Post by paulg on Dec 16, 2013 16:30:20 GMT 2
Hello Spikes, it looks similar, but I can't enlarge the pic to be sure. On mine,the end has a large nut type cap, under which there was a pin to pull out when the tensioner was released. The end on yours seems slightly different. Paul
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Dec 16, 2013 16:36:26 GMT 2
Thanks Paul, The pic comes off www.ladapower.com. What you describe with the cap nut sounds very much like the semi automatic tensioner. I have one of the pictured ones in my spares box. Will post a picture a bit later Spikes
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Dec 16, 2013 18:47:53 GMT 2
Side on and down the barrel
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Dec 16, 2013 19:03:38 GMT 2
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paulg
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Post by paulg on Dec 16, 2013 19:05:24 GMT 2
No, its not that one. Alas it didn't come in a box. If I could find the part no. fromthe invoice, would that help? Paul
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paulg
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Post by paulg on Dec 16, 2013 19:06:51 GMT 2
Yes, that's the one on the link to Lada Power.
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Dec 16, 2013 19:14:35 GMT 2
Thanks Paul! As I said that tensioner is semi-automatic. You do need to adjust it. Here is an illustrated link to the procedure: www.ladaniva.co.uk/baxter/resources/TimingChain.htmIt is a five minute job if you park the NIVA on a slight downhill Bit more the turn the engine over by hand Spikes
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hoodoo
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Post by hoodoo on Dec 16, 2013 21:14:35 GMT 2
Hi Paulq, You're more than welcome to do what I did to the fans. I'll try a rough description, but be aware I'm not the best electrician and tend to work using my own ideas rather than those approved by people who know better! You need a three position switch of sturdy construction, then you connect the existing live from the ECU to one side. The centre is the feed to the fans and the other side is a relay fed power supply from the battery. I think that's it, although it took a bit of working out where the ECU feed came from! If I'm wrong, will someone please say! I've also got idiot lights telling me when the ECU has kicked in, and when there's power going to the fans. This will tell me whether the ECU supply is working and show potential faults in the fan supply (not working!) So now I've got the auto supply, off, and manual supply. This lets me switch on manually when the going gets really hard, as well as a quick test on initial start-up to make sure the system's working, and to switch off when fording deep water so the underbonnet area doesn't get saturated! Hope this is of some use, but don't expect diagrams - they wouldn't make any sense! Regards, John
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paulg
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Post by paulg on Dec 17, 2013 20:56:21 GMT 2
Thanks John. Events have now overtaken me as we boiled up while climbing through narrow hill streets of a mountain village. Alas, the fans failed to come on and I didn't notice the temp gauge climbing. Anyway, no harm seems to have been done, but I need to try and find the fault. Will certainly add a manual overide!It's one thing after another just now.Oh, deep joy ITV test tomorrow. I wonder if we will pass? Regards Paul
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