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Post by keithbatkins on Mar 8, 2012 21:07:04 GMT 2
Hi Spikes, I think that the caps I have used are 'brass' and round in shape. At least they are a 'brass colour' and don't feel as heavy as steel might be. The one which came with the crack had it along one of the flanges which hold it in place on the radiator. I think that it was just a case of a bad pressing/thin metal. Regards to all at LOCSA, Keith and CERATOTH
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Mar 9, 2012 18:54:36 GMT 2
Thanks Keith. My new one is a brass colour as well. Round with the 2 ears as a normal rad cap. Old one's rubber is still soft so its back in storage. I seem to remember a posting about air leaking in at the water pump?
Regards
Spikes
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Mar 10, 2012 14:19:31 GMT 2
I have noticed that I have a small leak in the radiator itself which I need to get fixed, the cap itself is fine.
I drive about 65km a day, the majority of which is on the freeway all be it before 6am and between 3 and 4 pm so I miss the worst of the traffic. I do notice an increase in temperature after a few weeks, at which stage I just top up with water while the motor is luke warm. Further I know I need to replace the thermostat which I have just not got round to yet.
Interestingly enough, I noticed this morning that my fuel gauge remained on empty till I went over a speed bump in a parking lot, so I need to investigate that.
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Post by keithbatkins on Mar 10, 2012 16:30:14 GMT 2
Hi ihar, and welcome to the wonderful world of the Lada fuel gauge experience. There are lots of posts about how to fix this problem, all with varying degrees of success. Mine does exactly the same as yours. It's either on empty or full until I hit a speed bump, then it works for a while and then goes back to empty or full. I've tried all the options to fix it and have decided that it's a 'bad earth' on the instrument cluster which I just do not have the patience or skill to try and sort out. The good news is that the low petrol warning light works perfectly so I just wait for that to come on and then I fill up straight away. Good luck with your 'investigations' and please let us know if you do get the problem sorted. Regards to all at LOCSA, Keith and CERATOTH
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Mar 10, 2012 17:47:06 GMT 2
so you also familiar with the empty tank and fuel light on when turning right and full tank when turning left?
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Post by keithbatkins on Mar 11, 2012 10:41:24 GMT 2
Hi ihar, the answer to your question is 'yes' and its also 'gauge fun time' when going up and down steep hills or ramps in multi storey car parks :-) Regards to all at LOCSA. Keith and CERATOTH ps I know that this does sound like a dodgey sensor in the fuel tank but having checked it all out thoroughly I'm still convinced that it's a problem with the dashboard cluster earth.
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butasteve
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Post by butasteve on Mar 12, 2012 14:40:55 GMT 2
Dear All Good day I'm using a Local Replacement Cap which works fine. No Fill-up since replacement. Our Lada has the "Plastic Type" Radiator. Info on the Cap: The overheating / Water-loss problem is also resolved with a Cap from SR Radiators in Paarl. Behr Part #4410841 T1-7. The info on the Cap was provided by Francois in Wellington.Read more: locsa.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=userrecentposts&user=butasteve#ixzz1ou9Ybm2sKind regards Stephen
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Post by marius on Mar 17, 2012 13:13:52 GMT 2
Sparky supplied the following parts number for the radiator cap from Autozone (no. t113).
Marius
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Christo
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Post by Christo on Mar 17, 2012 15:21:49 GMT 2
Hi all My Niva is a 2000 model and also has a new generation radiator.Thanks for the info Cheisto
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Nikki Lada
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Post by Nikki Lada on Mar 19, 2012 7:12:05 GMT 2
Good Afternoon Guys. I've noticed that after a good long run at highway speeds, CERATOTH runs 'a little hot'. Instead of just above the 90'C she is running at about 110'C. Let the engine cool down a little and running the engine again whilst using the good old 2ltr Coke bottle to drain air out of the cooling system always results in lots of air bubbles coming out. After that it's back to 90'C until the next long run then repeat ! There are no signs of leaks in the cooling system but is it pulling in air from somewhere ? As usual all help, advice and comments are much appreciated. Regards to all at LOCSA, Keith and CERATOTH Could somebody please explain the bit about the 2litre Coke bottle. Thanks a stack. NIKKI
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Post by keithbatkins on Mar 19, 2012 17:46:57 GMT 2
Hi Nikki. When the engine is cold, undo the radiator cap. Put a half filled with water, (NOT COKE !), 2 litre plastic coke bottle without its top on into the hole where the radiator cap was. (Don't worry about the little bit of spillage you will get). Start the engine. When the engine warms up and the thermostat opens allowing the water to circulate,, the top hose will get hot. Then any air which is lurking in the nooks and crannies of the engine will come out as bubbles in the coke bottle. It's quite amazing just how many big bubbles can come out at first. After a while open the car heater up as more air can be stuck in there. When the bubbles have stopped, switch off the engine and replace the radiator cap. Be carefull at this point as the top of the radiator will be quite hot. This should have then gotten rid of any air in the cooling system. Hope this helps :-) Regards, Keith and CERATOTH.
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Post by marius on Mar 19, 2012 21:37:22 GMT 2
Hi Keith
I have used the Coke bottle method with great effect in the past, but there is a much easier way of filling the system with coolant.
Best way to fill the system with coolant after the old stuff has been drained:
Fully open the heater. Remove the hose on the left side of the radiator. This is the highest point and it also bypasses the thermostat. Pour about 4 liters of anti-freeze mixture (50/50) until the engine is full. Re-attach the hose. Then pour the mixture through the funnel for the radiator cap and also fill the expansion bottle to the top of the metal bracket. This should be another 4 liters.
Please note that the complete system takes 10.7 liters of coolant, but after you drained it some of it remains in the system.
Let the engine run until it reaches optimal temperature (about 90). Switch off, close the heater and let it cool down. Check the level of coolant in the expansion tank. If necessary top up the coolant to halfway in the hole in the metal bracket. Check the level again after your first proper drive.
Please note that some people recommend that you use undiluted anti freeze (100%) but I think a 50/50 should be fine. Do not use water only. If your area has hard water - use distilled water as a mix.
Marius
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Mar 20, 2012 6:45:40 GMT 2
this is very important in order to get some fluid in the engine block. I do it different: i remove the little hose after the thermostat and fill the engine block through the little hose. I attach it again and fill the system. If you don't do it Marius' or my way, there will be NO FLUID in the block itself untill the thermostat opens
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Mar 20, 2012 7:41:53 GMT 2
When Keith started this thread he wrote "There are no signs of leaks in the cooling system but is it pulling in air from somewhere ? As usual all help, advice and comments are much appreciated. Regards to all at LOCSA, Keith and CERATOTH" How about some ideas as to where his NIVA is sucking air into the cooling system? - Water pump seal at shaft?
- Another defective radiator cap? Unlikely as this is no 3
- Minute leak at a hose clamp?
regards Spikes
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Mar 20, 2012 8:18:00 GMT 2
niva cooling systems have little to none problems with air sucking as the air can and will get out through the expantion tank. Besides, when air gets in, water must come out when the engine is not running. I would suspect a faulty head gasket.
I will read the entire topic first, maybe i'll write an 'edit' later this morning
edit: i see 3 possibilities for these symptoms:
1. - a clogged radiator (boiling water produces air bubbles). Is the radiator hot at all places with the engine warmed up and running? Most likely it's (much) colder at the bottem (clogged)
2. - a faulty head gasket
3. - the thermostat is not fully open
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Post by spikes on Mar 20, 2012 8:28:11 GMT 2
Thanks Jan!!
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Mar 20, 2012 8:33:33 GMT 2
previous post editted
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Post by marius on Mar 20, 2012 9:08:08 GMT 2
Hi all I can only add that the hoses and pipes behind the water pump can easily be the cause of a leak. They are very hard to get to and you can easily miss a leak. Also - the radiator on the 1700 has a drain plug bottom left on the radiator. Check it for tightness by hand when cool. Do not over tighten! Jan >> unfortunately I can not take credit for this method but it is apparently the quickest way to fill the system. Others have filled the system through the heater hoses with similar results. Marius Attachments:
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Post by spikes on Mar 20, 2012 9:14:03 GMT 2
Hi Keith
In view of CERATOTH's submarine training, it could well be that some mud residue is clogging the fins of the rad reducing cooling area but not water-flow.
Spikes
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Post by ronnie on Mar 20, 2012 9:22:14 GMT 2
Hi All
Just be carefull what antifreeze you buy and make sure it needs diluting. Some are ready to use and if you dilute them you will have a very weak mixture.
Ronnie
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Post by Charles on Mar 20, 2012 10:07:15 GMT 2
I always retighten hose clamps when the pipes are hot. In cases where I did not do that I have had pipes start to leak.
Charles
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Post by keithbatkins on Mar 20, 2012 11:57:53 GMT 2
Thanks again guys for the help, advice and interest. A few thoughts on the points raised. I did hose down the radiator after CERATOTH's bath....what the heck....more water couldn't do any more harm. I really have checked for leaks and cannot find any. The 'coke bottle' is only to get rid rid of the small amount of air that might still be trapped in the system. I use the "Marius Method" if I am replacing the 50/50 water and antifreeze mix in total. The top hose gets really hot when running so I am guessing that the thermostat is opening OK. I am 'holding thumbs' and keeping my 'fingers crossed' that it is not a head gasket leak as a little voice in my ear is 'chirping' that with the amount of money I am spending on that 'Russian Thing' I could have bought a decent car. (I think 'she' means the Niva and not some mail order bride ;D ) One 'eureka moment' about the radiator cap. I thought 'what the heck' I've got a spare (#4) radiator cap so let's fit that and see what happens. It wouldn't go on ! The space between the lugs and the top of the cap was too small for it to fit onto the top of the radiator, unlike the existing (#3) which had plenty of gap. Was that the problem... the cap was not sealing properly when hot? Opened the gap slightly on #4 and with a lot of pushing down got it to fit. Have driven hard to Lada Centurion to get the seal and bearings fitted on the rear diff and will see what happens when I drive home. Hopefully problem solved Regards to all at LOCSA. Keith and CERATOTH
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Nikki Lada
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Post by Nikki Lada on Mar 21, 2012 0:27:03 GMT 2
Thanks for the detailed instructions for the Coke bottle Keith and I really hope you solve your problems soon. I've also got problems with air in the system but I have found a leak. Why don't you take CERATOTH down to your local Silverton Radiator guys and get them to test the cooling system for you - it probably won't even cost you much either. I've had it done a couple of times and they also did something when I was worried about my cylinder head at one stage but it was fine. I don't know what they did or how they knew it was alright but it put my mind at rest. They also tested my temperature gauge by putting a lazer gun over the water pipes and that was when I became aware that it was reading 30deg too high. It was great service and it cost me nothing! Thanks again and good luck! NIKKI
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Post by ronnie on Mar 21, 2012 9:03:25 GMT 2
Hi Nikki
The test to check the cylinder head gasket is done by testing a sample of water from the radiator for the presence of exhaust gases.
Ronnie
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Nikki Lada
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Post by Nikki Lada on Mar 22, 2012 20:53:11 GMT 2
Thank you Ronnie - now I know! NIKKI
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Post by keithbatkins on Mar 23, 2012 8:47:44 GMT 2
Thanks Nikki, I don't know why I didn't think of it sooner...but I have got a laser thermometer and will be checking the radiator temperature against the dial showing after my highway run back from Lada Centurion. Thanks again and regards to all at LOCSA. Keith and CERATOTH
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Mar 23, 2012 10:26:33 GMT 2
make sure to check it on every spot, but remember that a good functioning radiator will be a bit cooler at the bottom, but NOT a lot
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Post by keithbatkins on Mar 25, 2012 10:39:40 GMT 2
Good Morning Guys. Drove home via the highway yesterday and the temperature gauge never went above +/- 93'C. It looks as though cap #3 may have been the problem with its loose fit. I've bent the lugs up slightly and will keep it as a spare. Used the temperature laser gun and got readings of high 50's C and low 60's C so I guess that all is well with the cooling system. Regards to all at LOCSA, Keith and CERATOTH.
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Post by Charles on Mar 25, 2012 12:53:21 GMT 2
Happy days.
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Nikki Lada
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Post by Nikki Lada on Apr 9, 2012 6:59:13 GMT 2
Hi Guys
Under another thread some time ago I mentioned the problem of Nikita running hot due to a faulty temperature gauge and Charles recommended an Equus external temperature gauge. I did buy one of these but the probe thingy that screws into the block is too long. I mentioned this to my neighbour a few weeks ago and he gave me another one but this is also an Equus, but a slightly different model, but also too long. This seems to be the only make that Midas make.
Can anyone tell me what make will work please as it is very nerve wracking driving around without a functioning temperature gauge, even though I don’t do it very often. Spikes – you mentioned a gauge pod from Autostyle at one stage – is that someone that you have installed in Bongol?
I may have already caused some problems but I’ll get back to you on these when I’ve more time.
NIKKI
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