|
Post by jaco1978 on Mar 28, 2011 7:54:40 GMT 2
Hi there everyone,
I had a trip from Sun City to Pretoria yesterday. All went well apart from some shaking or rattling starting at around 90 km/h to about 105 km/h. The worst of it stops after 105 km/h and at about 120 km/h she sounds and feels sweet again.
It starts in 4th and 5th gear so I do not think it has something to do with the gearbox.
I just had my wheels balanced and aligned so it should not be it unless a bad job was done. In a way I hope that is the problem.
Oh, I have been hearing a ringing or a metal shaking sound coming from the front. It is not very hard but it is only there when I drive so I can not start the engine and pop the bonnet and have a listen from where it comes. I don't think it is connected to the shaking of the Lada.
Any ideas?
Thank you,
Jaco
|
|
|
Shaking
Mar 28, 2011 10:07:52 GMT 2
Post by Charles on Mar 28, 2011 10:07:52 GMT 2
Have you aligned your gearbox and transfercase?
|
|
|
Shaking
Mar 28, 2011 10:29:25 GMT 2
Post by ronnie on Mar 28, 2011 10:29:25 GMT 2
Hi Jaco
I presume by shaking you mean on the steering and not vibration caused by missalignment of the transfer case.
Ronnie
|
|
|
Shaking
Mar 28, 2011 11:44:35 GMT 2
Post by marius on Mar 28, 2011 11:44:35 GMT 2
Hi Jaco The particular vibration (between 90-110) is most likely TC and intermediate shaft related. You probably need to do some aligning. Also check the general condition of the doughnut and look for any sign of grease leaking from the intermediate shaft. At the moment I also have some vibration issues but hopefully most of it is from my badly warn front left tyre. It is not exactly round any more! In fact I have only one good tyre left. Another thing that makes a real difference to any vibration on our Niva, is to grease the Ujoints every 5000-10 000kms. Hope you sort it soon. Marius
|
|
|
Shaking
Mar 28, 2011 20:11:05 GMT 2
Post by jaco1978 on Mar 28, 2011 20:11:05 GMT 2
Hi Jaco I presume by shaking you mean on the steering and not vibration caused by missalignment of the transfer case. Ronnie I think vibration is a better word for what is happening. I have no idea what the alignment is like. I'll have to check it out. T'nx, Jaco
|
|
|
Shaking
Mar 28, 2011 20:14:44 GMT 2
Post by jaco1978 on Mar 28, 2011 20:14:44 GMT 2
The particular vibration (between 90-110) is most likely TC and intermediate shaft related. You probably need to do some aligning. Is this a difficult job (technical)? Is this shown in the Repair Manual? T'nx, Jaco
|
|
Ventzel
Senior Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 412
Registered: Aug 3, 2010 22:30:24 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Shaking
Mar 28, 2011 20:14:47 GMT 2
Post by Ventzel on Mar 28, 2011 20:14:47 GMT 2
All Nivas have vibrations - some more, some less. They start ~95 km/h, the peak is 105-110 km/h and over 120km/h they disappear. In the range 105-110 km/h the vibrations of the engine are compatible with the transmission ones and they get to amplitude resonance. Sometimes vibrations are in acceptable limits, sometimes not; 90% of them come from the intermediate shaft.
V.
|
|
|
Shaking
Mar 28, 2011 20:23:24 GMT 2
Post by jaco1978 on Mar 28, 2011 20:23:24 GMT 2
All Nivas have vibrations - some more, some less. They start ~95 km/h, the peak is 105-110 km/h and over 120km/h they disappear. In the range 105-110 km/h the vibrations of the engine are compatible with the transmission ones and they get to amplitude resonance. Sometimes vibrations are in acceptable limits, sometimes not; 90% of them come from the intermediate shaft. V. Hi Ventz, I'm not sure on what would be acceptable but from ~90 km/h (GPS speed) she really shakes/vibrates. From 105-120 km/h she still has a little but it is almost not noticeable. I will see if I can have a look at the TC and intermediate shaft. T'nx, Jaco P.S. My parts arrived today so I can hopefully soon have some time to get the diff gear leaver back in. Thank you for all the effort with it.
|
|
|
Shaking
Mar 29, 2011 18:22:45 GMT 2
Post by jaco1978 on Mar 29, 2011 18:22:45 GMT 2
In my initial post I mentioned a ringing or a metal shaking sound. I had a random chat with a friend today and he told me to check the prop-shaft, amongst other things. I then remembered the mechanic that did a once over on the Lada mentioned that the prop-shaft needs to be balanced or straightened.
I'm going to check out the prop-shaft first and then proceed.
Anyone got a prop-shaft lying around?
T'nx,
Jaco
|
|
|
Shaking
Mar 29, 2011 18:33:38 GMT 2
Post by ronnie on Mar 29, 2011 18:33:38 GMT 2
Hi Jaco
I assume you are talking about the rear prop shaft and not the front.
Ronnie
|
|
|
Shaking
Mar 29, 2011 18:35:59 GMT 2
Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Mar 29, 2011 18:35:59 GMT 2
Nope sorry. But that is a good check, Also check that the universals on each end line up with each other after fixing this some of my vibration has gone.
Ari
|
|
cidni
New Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 24
Registered: Mar 17, 2011 20:34:31 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Shaking
Mar 29, 2011 20:41:47 GMT 2
Post by cidni on Mar 29, 2011 20:41:47 GMT 2
One of the few checks done are on the fly wheel. Can be overlooked and cause major confusion if not balanced. Another thing that I've picked up if not prop-shaft or drive shaft are engine and gearbox mountings. Be prepared that it is going to be the last thing you check. Been there done that as I'm sure most here can testify. When it breaks, you'll know.
Cidni
|
|
|
Shaking
Mar 29, 2011 21:09:05 GMT 2
Post by ronnie on Mar 29, 2011 21:09:05 GMT 2
Hi Cidni
When a motor is rebuilt the flywheel, clutch assembly, crankshaft front pulley / damper should be balanced as an assembly. Charles, it would be interesting to know if the Nissan dealers do this and also do they make the all pistons and all con rods weight the same before assembly. I have the feeling the answer will be no.
Ronnie
|
|
|
Shaking
Mar 30, 2011 14:16:38 GMT 2
Post by jaco1978 on Mar 30, 2011 14:16:38 GMT 2
Ronnie, to be sure, I'm not certain if it is the front or the rear prop-shaft. We have been busy at work so far this week but when I have time I'll get clarity about the matter. Up until then I have promised myself not to go beyond 90 km/h with her.
|
|
|
Shaking
Mar 30, 2011 14:45:44 GMT 2
Post by ronnie on Mar 30, 2011 14:45:44 GMT 2
Hi Jaco
I would think it is more likely for it to be the rear as it works at the worst angle. In fact the front it nearly straight. Take one prop shaft off engage diff lock and try them one at a time.
Ronnie
|
|
|
Shaking
Mar 30, 2011 17:29:08 GMT 2
Post by jaco1978 on Mar 30, 2011 17:29:08 GMT 2
Ronnie, will do. I just need to see if I can get my diff gear leaver installed before dark.
T'nx,
Jaco
|
|
|
Shaking
Mar 30, 2011 17:29:29 GMT 2
Post by marius on Mar 30, 2011 17:29:29 GMT 2
Hi Jaco
There are a few methods mentioned elsewhere that you can use to align the the TC/Intermediate shaft.
A quick way to check if the UJoints on the propshafts are still ok is to get underneath the car and push the propshafts up and down near the UJoints - that way you will detect any play on the UJoints.
To check if the intermediate shaft is running ok - start the car and put the hi/low range in neutral. Put the car in second and get underneath the car to see if the CV is running smooth and straight. Take the refs up to around 300rpm. If the hi/low range sticks are moving backwards and forwards or if you feel the car vibrating you can re-align the TC/Intermediate Shaft and hopefully it will improve.
Regards Marius
|
|
|
Shaking
Mar 30, 2011 17:44:18 GMT 2
Post by jaco1978 on Mar 30, 2011 17:44:18 GMT 2
Agh, bin my last post. I need to replace the front axle case cover and it looks like I will have to drop the transfer box. Is there a simple way to do it? Other wise I will have to take it to a mech and then it will have to wait until the next pay day in a month. But she is running fine for now so it is not the end of the world.
|
|
|
Shaking
Mar 30, 2011 17:46:21 GMT 2
Post by jaco1978 on Mar 30, 2011 17:46:21 GMT 2
Hi Marius,
Thank you for the input. I will get to it once I have the transfer case/box sorted.
Regards,
Jaco
|
|
|
Shaking
Mar 30, 2011 18:27:26 GMT 2
Post by ronnie on Mar 30, 2011 18:27:26 GMT 2
Hi Jaco
The T/C is very easy to remove. You can do it yourself with no problem. First strip the inside, Plastic cover, knobs, and all the rubber boots. You can now disconnect the wires to the diff lock light. Jack the back axle up on to axle stands, hand brake off T/C in neutral. If you have a trolley jack, place it under the T/C and now remove the 8 nuts holding the 2 prop shafts on (13 spanner) and the 4 nuts holding the C/V on the intermediate shaft to the T/C flange. Disconnect the spedo cable, then the 4 nuts for the 2 mountings removing the shims if fitted. If I have not forgotten anything you should now be able to lower the T/C down. Unless you have jacked up very high you will need to remove the jack completely to be able to drag the T/C out. Time with some practice 1 hour. Good luck.
Ronnie
|
|
|
Post by jaco1978 on Mar 31, 2011 8:35:56 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie,
Looks like I will have to go the whole hog. I might have to eat some pap for the rest of the month but I will get a trolley jack and some bokkies (jack stands) and get this done. Then I can follow Marius' instructions to get the whole thing lined up. Long weekend, here I come! ;D
Regards,
Jaco
|
|
darryn
Veteran Niva Petrol Head
Ruchnoy Protivotankovyy Granatomyot
Posts: 713
Registered: Mar 5, 2010 21:50:09 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by darryn on Mar 31, 2011 8:47:08 GMT 2
Yes, do it yourself mate.
|
|
|
Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Mar 31, 2011 8:58:44 GMT 2
Then you know its done properly
|
|
|
Post by ronnie on Mar 31, 2011 9:01:05 GMT 2
Hi Jaco
When you have the T/C case out remember to check the CV joint on the intermediate shaft. Have CV grease handy, and if you cannot refit the clamps use GOOD quality cable ties that you can pull tight without them breaking easily. Remember to put hose clips round the doughnut if you remove it. Join two or three together to get it long enough. Have a good weekend ;D
Ronnie
|
|
|
Post by jaco1978 on Apr 3, 2011 18:52:16 GMT 2
Hi all, It has been a good weekend indeed, so far. Did not get to the T/C job yet but a lot of other TLC was done on the Lada. ;D Yesterday was just consumed with a "friendly" underwater hockey in Mooi Nooi and being tired I rather indulged in the Stormers/Sharks game afterwards. Tomorrow afternoon will be D-day on the T/C as I'm off at work and my buddy will join me in the afternoon. We had a "team talk" now and our opinion would be that we would not need to drain any oil for the T'C job. Would that be correct? T'nx, Jaco
|
|
|
Post by Charles on Apr 3, 2011 20:42:37 GMT 2
Yes you can leave the oil in.
Charles
|
|
|
Post by jaco1978 on Apr 3, 2011 20:59:38 GMT 2
T'nx Charles.
|
|
|
Post by jaco1978 on Apr 4, 2011 22:42:21 GMT 2
Sjoe-wee!!! What a bloody weekend. ;D All is done and then some. I have a fully functioning diff-lock again. We (me and my friend Julius) used Ronnie's suggestion regarding that with some modification (I think). Then we aligned the T/C with some modification to Marius' suggestions. All we did different is that we marked the old place the T/C fitted and then moved it by the rule-of-thumb to where it looked more flush with the body before we started the engine to listen to it. The vibration is virtually zero now at the speeds mentioned above. And I do think my paranoia added most of what I thought was still there. ;D We fine tuned the carbi, done some electric and fixed some lights, fitted some spots, gave here some new side mirrors and then a spit-and-polish. And in return she purred for me on the drive back home. Thank you for everyone's input on this thread. I hope you all had a wonderful Lada Day. Regards, Jaco
|
|
spikes
Moderator
Posts: 3,689
Location: Mpumalanga
Town: Nelspruit
Registered: Apr 19, 2010 19:39:51 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by spikes on Apr 5, 2011 7:13:54 GMT 2
Hi Jaco Good news indeed! regards Spikes
|
|
|
Post by marius on Apr 5, 2011 7:45:09 GMT 2
Very happy to see that you are now sorted Marius
|
|