90ladaniva
Full Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 246
Registered: Feb 28, 2011 6:09:02 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by 90ladaniva on Jul 16, 2011 3:24:54 GMT 2
Hi Guys ,Well as you have seen here Bobby has made a couple of adaptors so far and mine is in the post as we speak .So some time next week me and Bobby will have a full report on how these will work so we will keep you all posted after the tests are done .Cheers Trev
|
|
bobbyd
Veteran Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 575
Registered: Oct 11, 2009 11:58:35 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by bobbyd on Jul 16, 2011 11:00:05 GMT 2
I made the thinner part longer (20mm) simply to provide more stability, no secrets
|
|
|
Post by danie on Jul 16, 2011 18:47:50 GMT 2
Some feedback on a very frustrating day: Still needed to replace the Crankshaft oil seals , but during the past two weeks I simply failed to find my 38mm socket to remove the nut at the crankshaft pulley . So early this morning I deiced today is the day that I will find the socket, and that I will remove the nut. By 11H00 this morning I gave up all hope that I will ever find the socket again .......... , .........then my good wife insisted that I just go and buy myself a new socket at R236.00. (Have I ever mentioned the fact that I am very blessed with a wonderful and supportive wife ??!! ) So I bought the socket at a local tool shop (Drakewoods) and rushed back home.........just to discover that the nut is simply too tight - the Fiat engine got airborne when I tried to remove the nut ! So I decided rather to start painting the engine in order to get rid of all frustrations - and to get some assistance from a family member in removing the nut during the next week. The painting went well, and I am quite happy with the result . Danie
|
|
90ladaniva
Full Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 246
Registered: Feb 28, 2011 6:09:02 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by 90ladaniva on Jul 19, 2011 12:06:41 GMT 2
Danie to get your Pulley off try somthing like this Mate .Simply a straight lenght of steel with a coupla holes in the right spot Mate and Bingo ,Off she comes Man .Or just use a bit Chain and bolt one link to a pressure plate hole in the flywheel and an anchor spot on your block and again Bingo shes Off ,and reverse to refit it .Cheers Trev .
|
|
|
Post by ronnie on Jul 19, 2011 12:17:31 GMT 2
Hi Trevor
I have just noticed the starter and exhaust are on the same side as the Niva motor, that should make the conversion so much easier ?
Ronnie
|
|
90ladaniva
Full Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 246
Registered: Feb 28, 2011 6:09:02 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by 90ladaniva on Jul 19, 2011 12:53:00 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie ,Yes it would have been easy if we had a pipe bender but when one has very limited tools and equitment it is very hard at times to acheiva a half decent job .And the reason the starter motor is on the R.H.S. is because i used the Lada Box on mine .Cheers Trev.
|
|
|
Post by danie on Jul 19, 2011 19:33:50 GMT 2
Hi Trev / Ronnie This evening after work one of the chaps at work helped me to loosen the nut at the Crankshaft pulley. This nut was so tight we really battled to get it loose. Thanks Trev, I still have to loosen the bolts at the Flywheel. I've already made a similar flat steel bar with holes, and your method of loosening the bolts should make things easier. Ronnie, on some of the Fiat engines (like mine) the starter is located on the left (passenger) side of the engine. On the local Fiat diesel engines the starters are also located on the left (passenger) side, and the diesel engines can be mounted to these bellhousings without any modifications. This was part of the reason why I couldn't resist the temptation to buy this engine. If the Fiat petrol engine do give problems in future, it will be replaced with one of the local Fiat diesel engines. This is a pic of my Fiat engine: Danie
|
|
|
Post by danie on Jul 23, 2011 17:41:47 GMT 2
Progress on the Fiat engine during this week: 1. Crankshaft oil seals removed and checked. The Oil seals are still brand new - but the ends of the inner spring at the rear Crankshaft seal found disconnected, which caused an oil leak at the rear oil seal. The spring ends have been re-connected, and the seal now fits properly. 2. New Vellumoid gaskets for the Crankshaft oil seal brackets has been made. The old (aged) seals has been found very hard, and did not seal properly. 3. Engine painted with a good quality "High Heat" paint. 4. Tappet Covers and Cylinder Head painted with a good quality "High Heat" paint. 5. Carburettor inspected. My knowledge about Weber carbs is almost non existent - but I have measured both barrels, and both barrels are 36 mm in diameter. This measurements do not match the info on my Fiat Service Manual - so I guess the the Weber on my Fiat's engine is not "original" . I hope to start re-assembling the engine during the next week, and will post some pics. I have also decided to use the Lada gearbox on the Fiat engine, and hope to mount the Lada Gearbox to the Fiat Bellhousing during the next week. Danie
|
|
|
Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Jul 23, 2011 19:09:41 GMT 2
Your carb is a 36 DCD. Not the best for offroading etc.
Ari
|
|
|
Post by danie on Jul 23, 2011 19:34:42 GMT 2
Hi Trev I am not too happy about the air filter which has been mounted to the Weber carb on my Fiat engine, and would appreciate your comments in this regard. Firstly, the air filter on my carb has been modified to allow space for a brass nut, which can be seen at the 3rd pic (below) - and due to this mod, the filter does not seal properly: Secondly, the mounting plate of the air filter has also been modified - and this mod is also causing the filter not to seal properly: This is a pic of the top of the carb, and I would like to know whether it is similar to the carb in your possession ?: I am thinking of getting hold of another air filter, but I am not sure whether one of these can be used ?: compare.ebay.com/like/400172209283?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&_lwgsi=ycompare.ebay.com/like/400172209293?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&_lwgsi=yIf the filters (above) can be used - do you think there is enough clearance between the carb and the Lada bonnet to install the larger 2 and a 1/2" filter (above) ? . Danie
|
|
|
Post by ronnie on Jul 23, 2011 19:40:20 GMT 2
Hi Ari and Danie
I agree with Ari, this is a 36 DCD weber carb.
Ronnie
|
|
|
Post by danie on Jul 23, 2011 20:02:59 GMT 2
Hi Ari / Ronnie
Thanks - I just need to find another air filter which seals properly.
This air filter is a piece of rubbish and there are leaks all over the place.
Danie
|
|
|
Post by ronnie on Jul 24, 2011 10:34:16 GMT 2
Hi Danie
If there is space you can use a wider diameter filter and form a raised piece in the base of the filter for the brass nut.
Ronnie
|
|
|
Post by ronnie on Jul 24, 2011 10:49:32 GMT 2
Hi Danie
I don`t know if it will help or not but you could try a scrap yard for old Chevs. An old ( 70`s ) Firenza 2.5 had a 36 DCD and the 1900 hatch had a 28/36 DCD which may be the same. After looking at your photo`s it may be easier to go the bigger diameter way as per my previous post as the round flat filter is more in keeping with the motor.
Ronnie
Ronnie
|
|
|
Post by danie on Jul 24, 2011 11:39:36 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie Thanks - I will also visit the carb guys in Pinetown, they might have something which fits properly. I like these washable filters, but apparently they are suitable for DFV , DFAV , DFEV , and DGEC Weber carbs: I am very unfamiliar with the Weber carbs and have no idea whether it can be used on the 36 DCD carbs ? The bottom plate of the filter looks like this: More detail and pics of these filters can be found here: compare.ebay.com/like/400172209293?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&_lwgsi=y&clk_rvr_id=249781752982Trev, do you think there will be enough clearance for a 2.5 inch filter ? Danie
|
|
|
Post by ronnie on Jul 24, 2011 11:44:17 GMT 2
Hi Danie
The problem with the DCD is the brass bolt on the top. The DGAV etc does not have that bolt and are flat on the top with no protrusions.
Ronnie
|
|
|
Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Jul 24, 2011 11:53:43 GMT 2
The DCD is rectangular on top not oval so those wont work.
Ari
|
|
|
Post by ronnie on Jul 24, 2011 12:05:39 GMT 2
Hi Danie
Another option is to make a spacer with a gasket each side to lift the base of the filter above the brass bolt.
Ronnie
|
|
|
Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Jul 24, 2011 12:11:28 GMT 2
Which brass bolt are you talking about Ronnie??
Ari
PS I see now, you are talking about the cap above the needle and seat.
|
|
Hein
Junior Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 95
Registered: Jan 14, 2010 23:53:14 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by Hein on Jul 24, 2011 17:16:27 GMT 2
Hi Danie
If you can wait till next weekend I might have something for you. I got my Lada with a 36DCD and still have the filter housing and filter that it came with. It is at my parents place so I will only get to it next weekend. I will send you some pics then so you can decide if you want it.
If you take it our arrangement will be as before when you helped me.
Regards
Hein
|
|
90ladaniva
Full Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 246
Registered: Feb 28, 2011 6:09:02 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by 90ladaniva on Jul 24, 2011 17:44:51 GMT 2
Hi Danie ,The carby i am using is a weber ,32/36 DFV ,which has a top similar to the original Lada carby .My air cleaner as we call them over here is a standard Lada one but slightly modified to fit, and stands 70mmabove the carby mountng base and it would be able to go up to 3 inches and have enough clearance to miss the bonnet .But 3 inches is max height .Hope this helps mate .Cheers Trev .
|
|
|
Post by ronnie on Jul 24, 2011 17:48:47 GMT 2
Hi Ari
That is correct, I could not remember what the cap was for. I think the easiest way out is simply to space the base of the filter up to clear it. A piece of tuffnol would be fine.
Ronnie
Ronnie
|
|
90ladaniva
Full Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 246
Registered: Feb 28, 2011 6:09:02 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by 90ladaniva on Jul 24, 2011 17:55:44 GMT 2
Oh, and Danie that brass bolt on top i beleive is a filter housing and i think it will cause alot of greif and height problems as those carbys are not the easiest ones to fit on a Fiat motor that will be used for a Lada Niva Conversion .Cheers Trev .
|
|
|
Post by danie on Jul 24, 2011 18:44:31 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie / Ari / Hein / Trev
Thanks for the feedback.
Hein, time is not a problem, and I will appreciate some pics.
If the filter do seal properly on your filter housing I will definitely be interested.
Regards
Danie
|
|
vincentc
Veteran Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 1,130
Registered: Mar 16, 2011 17:59:16 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
|
Post by vincentc on Jul 26, 2011 18:22:59 GMT 2
Hey Danie,
I like the name :-)
Regards Vincent
|
|
|
Post by danie on Jul 26, 2011 19:46:17 GMT 2
Thanks Vincent
Things started coming together nicely, and hopefully Lafida will be up and running soon.
Regards
Danie
|
|
|
Post by danie on Jul 30, 2011 16:46:31 GMT 2
"Progress" on the engine today: Got up early this morning - with only one thing in mind : To reassemble the engine completely, before the "Boks" get thrashed by the All Blacks. So: 1. I installed the Crankshaft seal brackets. 2. Installed the pistons and torqued the Bearing end caps. 3. Put the Flywheel back in place and torqued the bolts. Then I swinged the Flywheel.......and discovered that one tooth on the flywheel is broken . Fortunately the deal included a spare Flywheel (no broken teeth), Clutch -, and Pressure plate. By having a look at the spare clutch plate, I realized that it is almost brand new. So I started feeling that the score against the Boks would not be so bad at all. Then I've had a proper look at the Fiat engine's clutch assembly, the spare clutch assembly, and compared that with my Lada's clutch assembly. The Flywheels, as well as the clutch plates are an exact match - but there is a slight difference in the Pressure plates. I got all exited, because I realized that the Lada's Flywheel, which is in a better condition, could be used on the Fiat engine ! So I started getting the feeling that the Boks might won today. Then uncertainty started creeping in, because I realized that should the Lada's Flywheel been used, the Crankshaft and Flywheel combination will probably have to be re- balanced by professionals . The Boks have been thrashed by the All Blacks , I will probably have to strip the engine again - and get the Crankshaft / Flywheel combination rebalanced by professionals . Danie
|
|
|
Post by danie on Aug 1, 2011 18:36:22 GMT 2
Confirmed by a motor engineering specialist today:
Replacing the original Flywheel with the spare Fiat or Lada Flywheel without re-balancing the Crankshaft with "new" Flywheel, is definately not advisable.
I now have to strip the engine again, and have to send the Crankshaft with Bellhousing to a local company for re-balancing.
Danie
|
|
|
Post by ronnie on Aug 1, 2011 19:07:31 GMT 2
Hi Danie
I never rebuild a motor without making all pistons the same weight and the con rods the same weight, and balancing the complete crankshaft assembly, IE crank, flywheel, clutch, and front pulley / damper. I do this every time and it is worth every cent.
Ronnie
|
|
|
Post by danie on Aug 2, 2011 18:02:38 GMT 2
Some contradicting info regarding the balancing of Crankshafts, Fywheels, pulleys, etc.
Yesterday a guy at a very reputable engineering shop has referred me to a local balancing specialist - for re-balancing the Crankshaft, Flywheel, and Pulley.
So today I have contacted the specific Balancing specialist (Dynamic Balancing, tel. 031 3121776, Durban). The comments of a guy at the balancing shop is as follows:
There is no reason to re-balance the Flywheel, Crankshaft, and Crankshaft pulley in my case, should I use the spare Fiat flywheel in my possession.
According to this guy , on all standard cars , the Flywheels, Crankshafts and Pulleys get manufactured in mass production, and get balanced independently. All these components (same brand) are inter-changeable, and after the final assembling, these components do not get re balanced again.
I guess this guy knows what he is talking about, so I decided not to get the Crankshaft , Flywheel and Pulley re-balanced.
Danie
|
|