spikes
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Post by spikes on May 15, 2011 18:58:03 GMT 2
"Thanks Vincent - I am very fortunate in having an extra original sump as well. I will just copy the original baffle to fabricate a new one."
Nice job Danie! My compliments to the artist who did welding. It is exceptionally neat. Please post a picture of the extra original sump. It and the placement of the baffle and its depth(baffle) will give an indication of dangerous lean and gradient angles. But I expect the VAZ factory engineers did proper homework on this issue Regards Spikes
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Post by danie on May 15, 2011 20:02:47 GMT 2
Thanks Spikes - I will tell the welder about your kind words - he will then definately be committed to do some better welding on the sump during the next week . Anyway - here is the pic - the sump at the bottom is actually the original one, which has originally been fitted to the engine. The mods has been done to the extra sump which came with the deal: The original sump has not been cleaned yet, and is still a bit oily - but you should be able to see the baffle. Danie
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vincentc
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Post by vincentc on May 15, 2011 22:31:48 GMT 2
If Danie is baffling like to VAZ engineers then he will not have a problem. I think this will rev like a bugger though :-)
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90ladaniva
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Post by 90ladaniva on May 16, 2011 16:56:48 GMT 2
Nice job Danie sure wish i could weld like that .My sump holds 4.5 Ltrs of oil so i think that will be enough to do the job as im not sure what the original Fiat sump holds for the 125s .Good to see yours coming along mate .Have you done your breather pipe yet .Cheers Trev .
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Post by danie on May 17, 2011 19:59:06 GMT 2
Breather pipe almost done Trev - just need to cut the small piece of the engine block away before I will be ready for the final touches.
Just need to do some voting early tomorrow morning - hope to finish the pipe tomorrow.
Danie
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spikes
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Post by spikes on May 17, 2011 20:04:13 GMT 2
Just need to do some voting early tomorrow morning - hope to finish the pipe tomorrow.
Hi Danie, And the voting by next week ;D ;D
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Post by danie on May 17, 2011 20:19:08 GMT 2
Hi Spikes No, going early to vote is always a nice experience locally. The opposition are always late , so it is always nice to go early and "vang bietjie gees" with the other locals. Hoop nie ons vang te veel gees nie dan kom ek nooit by die Lada uit nie. Danie
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90ladaniva
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Post by 90ladaniva on May 26, 2011 13:24:24 GMT 2
Hello Danie ,How is the sump coming along mate .Cant wait to see the the finished Thing .I love it .Cheers Trev .
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Post by danie on Jun 27, 2011 19:58:11 GMT 2
Hi Trev Sorry about this late reply. Since I started the mod to the sump I battled to find some spare time to work on the sump - but during the previous week I managed to finally get things going , and the sump should be painted and ready by the end of this week. This pic shows the welded sump, bolted to an old steel baseplate to prevent distortion of the sump during the welding process: I did not like cutting the engine block to make way for the breather pipe - so I have fabricated a little "room" (can be seen at the center of the sump) for the breather pipe where the breather pipe enters the sump. The little "room" has been designed in such a way that the oil will not be forced into the breather pipe by the rotation of the crankshaft.: The breather pipe "room" can be seen at the center / right of this pic: I might decide to install a Supercharger or turbo to the engine, and should I decide to go for a turbo, the socket at the side of the sump will be used as an oil return line from the turbo: I still need do some minor changes to the baffle plate, which can be seen at the next pic, but everything should be done by the end of this week: The two holes at the bottom of the sump (2nd and last pic) will be used for an electric or belt driven oil pump, which will be connected to an oil cooler radiator. I've got two of these pump lying around - if it does not work, I can just use two plugs to block the holes . Or I might fit an oil temp sensor in one of the holes . Danie
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Post by Charles on Jun 27, 2011 20:14:56 GMT 2
Very nica Danie.
Charles
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Hein
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Post by Hein on Jun 27, 2011 20:48:57 GMT 2
Hi Danie
We used to fit a adapter between the oil filter and the block that had a outlet and return pipe for a oil cooler on our off-road race engines. This way you do not need to fit a extra pump.
NB: The distributor you donated me has finally gone in. I had to order a new hall sensor and the rest of the electronics on the ignition system is all new. Charles was with me when i fitted it all and she sounds so happy.
Thanks once again
Hein
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Post by danie on Jun 28, 2011 6:20:55 GMT 2
Hi Hein
Those adapters sell for about R700.00 locally - without hoses and the radiator. The pumps which I am thinking of using are just lying around, so I thought I'll give it a try.
Glad that you are able to use the distributor.
I still need to have a look whether the electronic Lada distributor will fit to the Fiat engine. Unfortunately the Fiat engine came with the old type distributor.
Danie
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Post by danie on Jun 30, 2011 6:37:08 GMT 2
Sump done and it fits perfectly ! The clearance between the oil pickup and sump is very small, and I was worried about the possibility that the pickup might touch the sump - but in the end things worked out 100%, and I did not have to do any mods to the oil pickup: Danie
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Post by marius on Jun 30, 2011 7:54:50 GMT 2
Very impressive Danie! What are those plugs on the sides for? Marius
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Jun 30, 2011 19:19:10 GMT 2
Very very good fit Danie!! Same question as Marius. I saw 3 plugs? groete Spikes
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Post by danie on Jul 1, 2011 5:37:52 GMT 2
Thanks Marius / Spikes
The two plugs are for the possible oil cooler mod, and the "plug" at the left (bottom pic) is an oil temp heat sensor for a gage which will be installed inside the cabin.
Next step now is to replace crankshaft oil seals (just in case ..) , repaint the engine block, and to re-assemble the engine.
Regards
Danie
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Jul 1, 2011 7:07:23 GMT 2
Thanks Danie When do expect to have the Fiat engine installed? groete Spikes
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Post by danie on Jul 2, 2011 6:48:22 GMT 2
Hi Spikes It might still take some time - I have already made some components to mount the Transfer Box to a sub frame, which will be linked to the Gearbox and engine. Fortunately Rome has not been built in one day - in fact, I think Rome is still under construction . Groetnis Danie
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vincentc
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Post by vincentc on Jul 2, 2011 12:07:54 GMT 2
Hi Danie You could also look at fitting an oil condition sensor Its like having an oil lab in your engine - But HECTICALLY expensive (About 25k for the premium unit) Regards Vincent
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Post by danie on Jul 2, 2011 13:56:17 GMT 2
Hi Vincent Thanks for the tip, but I usually sommer use a bigger oil filter for better filtration. It's slightly cheaper than the oil condition sensor . By the way - whenever you do change oil on your Lada , always run the engine first and make sure that the front wheel is at a higher level than the rear wheels.Although it is not easy to see, the drain plug hole at the Lada sump is not located at the lowest point of the sump, and if the front wheels are not at a higher level than the rear wheels, at least a cup full of gunk will be sitting right there, waiting to pollute the clean oil. Groetnis Danie
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Post by marius on Jul 2, 2011 14:53:12 GMT 2
Hi Danie You could also look at fitting an oil condition sensor Its like having an oil lab in your engine - But HECTICALLY expensive (About 25k for the premium unit) Regards Vincent You van buy a complete Niva with oil included at that price! ;D
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Jul 2, 2011 19:24:59 GMT 2
Hi Danie I agree with your approach on the conversion> Take in slow sure steps Groetnis Spikes
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Post by danie on Jul 11, 2011 19:37:24 GMT 2
Those members and visitors who also visit the Aussie website already know about the possible mod to use the Lada electronic distributor on the Fiat engines - anyway I have fabricated an adapter bush on the lathe to replace the Fiat's points type distributor with the Lada's electronic distributor. : An far as I know Trev and Bobby might be the first guys on earth who will know whether this mod (Trev's idea) will work - so I am crossing fingers an toes on this side of the pond ! Danie
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Post by Charles on Jul 11, 2011 20:15:00 GMT 2
I saw it there aswell. You guys are truely pioneers!
Charles
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bobbyd
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Post by bobbyd on Jul 15, 2011 11:13:02 GMT 2
here we go Attachments:
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Post by Charles on Jul 15, 2011 13:08:55 GMT 2
Nice machining Bobby.
Charles
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90ladaniva
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Post by 90ladaniva on Jul 15, 2011 13:51:04 GMT 2
Hi Guys ,Dont worry Lads this mod will work really well and save every one a stack of cash .Now thats Confidence hey .Cheers Lads Trev
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Post by danie on Jul 15, 2011 18:02:24 GMT 2
Hi Bobby / Trev
Bobby, I have noticed that the thinner end on your adapters are slightly longer than mine. The aluminum rod which I have used was an off cut lying on the supplier's shelve - maybe I should have insisted on a longer piece of rod. I don't think the shorter bottom end will cause any problems though.
Trev, I also cannot think of any reason why this mod will not work - really looking forward to some news from you guys.
Regards
Danie
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Jul 15, 2011 19:07:37 GMT 2
The depth for the distributor looks like the critical measurement Danie. Will the std shaft reach the gear at the bottom? cheers Spikes
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Post by danie on Jul 15, 2011 19:52:05 GMT 2
Hi Spikes
The length of the "bottom / thinner" part of the adapter is not related to the position / depth of the gear at the bottom at all.
The "bottom / thinner" part of the adapter only centralize / locates the distributor in the correct position.
The length of the 'top / thicker" part of the adapter is critical though - because the top part of the adapter determines the depth of the driving gear. Regards
Danie
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