spikes
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Post by spikes on Jan 31, 2011 10:41:36 GMT 2
Hi Chris I have PM'd detail re the Oxygen sensor to you. It does seem that it can be damaged by leaded fuel. I agree with Ronnie about chucking the cat. Regards Spikes
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Jan 31, 2011 10:50:24 GMT 2
Hi Chris here is the info. Regards Spikes
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Post by ronnie on Jan 31, 2011 11:41:15 GMT 2
Hi Spikes
I thought I had read some where that one of the sensors could be damaged by using leaded petrol. I`m afraid if you want to remember all these things you will need a better memory than mine.
Ronnie
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Jan 31, 2011 11:58:56 GMT 2
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Jan 31, 2011 12:02:15 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie, You confirmed my own recollection re damage so I scanned through the TBI manual. All searches indicate that leaded petrol will damage it {both the sensor and the brain:) } regards Spikes
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Jan 31, 2011 12:06:28 GMT 2
Hi Chris On the link check the section "replaceing Lambda Sensors" It confirms that leaded fuel will form deposits on the tip. Spikes
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spencer
Full Niva Petrol Head
"In Soviet Russia, Niva drives you"
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Post by spencer on Jan 31, 2011 18:29:53 GMT 2
Hi Spikes.
These symptoms sound very familiar. I'll whip out the sensor and let you know what I see.
Thanx Spencer
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spencer
Full Niva Petrol Head
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Post by spencer on Jan 31, 2011 20:34:07 GMT 2
Hi guys. What do you think of this?
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spencer
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Post by spencer on Jan 31, 2011 20:42:45 GMT 2
And another view. The info Spikes sent suggests that O2 sensors should be replaced after 50 000 miles. I guess at 112 000km mine is due any way.
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Post by danie on Feb 1, 2011 5:51:42 GMT 2
I have never seen any comments by an Agent in this regard.
Maybe another "secret" they rather keep for themselves ?
Hopefully Ventz will pass some comments regarding the sensors.
Danie
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Feb 1, 2011 6:21:46 GMT 2
Hi Spencer or should it be Chris? I have no reference to the colour of the deposit on the sensor, but there is a deposit on the sensor. Was it a mission to get out? Ventz and Charles's views may help Regards Spikes
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Post by Charles on Feb 1, 2011 10:13:04 GMT 2
I have never seen something like that on a sensor. Try cleaning it with brake cleaner.
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Post by danie on Feb 1, 2011 18:36:06 GMT 2
On the original (collapsed) Locsa Forum owners who asked questions regarding these components never got proper explanations or advice regarding these components from any Agent.
Since Ventz is now part of this Forum - and while his exposure on this website is free of any charge, hopefully he will be prepared to give some advice.
To my mind that's the "ethical thing" to do.........
Danie
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spencer
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Post by spencer on Feb 1, 2011 19:13:07 GMT 2
Hi Guys.
It was a bit of a mission to get out, but mainly because my spanner did not have enough of a neck to get a better angle. The new sensor was R780 at Goldwagen. It's a generic Bosch lambda sensor and comes with a wiring adaptation.
The idling is less erratic and the flatspot is virtually gone. I would think that the ecu has to retrain itself into the normal parameters. It is also alot less sluggish. In niva terms, that is.
The guys at the local spares shop also mentioned that these sensors have a limited lifespan of about 80 000km. I guess the because the ecu has the ability to adapt, it doesn't surface as a acute problem.
I still have 2 error codes: 13 - possible open circuit on the O2 sensor and 22 - TPS possible open circuit.
We are currently having a thunderstorm so I cant check the wiring for the O2 sensor right now.
I tried cleaning the old sensor, but could not see any improvement.
I will update you on the improvement over the next couple of days.
Spencer. (Chris is the name they use on Police File...)
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Feb 1, 2011 19:17:49 GMT 2
Hi Spencer, Thanks for the update. Very good news that you were able to find a replacement at reasonable and even better that it already shows an improvement. Regards Spikes PS- mind your typing you let the Chris slip S
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spencer
Full Niva Petrol Head
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Post by spencer on Feb 1, 2011 20:10:51 GMT 2
Thanks Spikes.
Since 9/11 you cant be too careful. Anyway, the plastic surgeon that turned me into the handsome beast on my avatar pic has retreated to his holiday home in deepest Siberia and now specializes in breast augmentation for the endangered russian elephant schrew. They need all the help they can get, poor things.
Fortunately I have you guys to keep me sharp.
Spencer.
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Post by marius on Feb 2, 2011 8:24:49 GMT 2
I thought you looked familiar
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Feb 2, 2011 20:09:08 GMT 2
Judging by your avatar, the Russian Elephant shrews are in good hands regards Spikes
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Jul 16, 2011 19:15:48 GMT 2
Hi all Replaced the pipe between the exhaust manifold and the air intake on the Bongol. (it was the only part missing when I bought it). Idle on start-up is noticeably smoother. Will check fuel consumption over the present tank of fuel.
regards Spikes
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Christo
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Post by Christo on Feb 4, 2013 16:27:35 GMT 2
Hi Guys Did any one build the interface from the TBI 101 tips document and did it work?
Regards Christo
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Feb 4, 2013 17:00:52 GMT 2
Hi Guys Did any one build the interface from the TBI 101 tips document and did it work? Regards Christo Not that I know of. Spencer used his Engine warning light for diagnosis
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Ihar
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Lada Niva Driver
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Post by Ihar on Feb 4, 2013 17:38:01 GMT 2
Christo, for major faults, the engine warning light works best. I am sure Chris and I will get round to building the other one, one day.
Chris did find a guy in Krugersdorp with the correct diagnostic equipment to read all the faults, I am sure he will reply later.
Tjeers
Steve
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darrel
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Post by darrel on Feb 4, 2013 17:46:39 GMT 2
From my phone I cannot read the above attachments but what I found was: 1) My TBI has 3 vacuum lines, one MAP sensor and 2 to the "black canister" 2) After replacing the 2 lines to the black canister my Lada ran like clockwork That is because all 3 lines sharre the same vacuum cell on the TBI and 1 line leaking destroys the vacuum needed for the MAP and hense the proper running of the engine. In a previous post of mine I reported it. Good Luck!
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Feb 4, 2013 17:50:22 GMT 2
Thanks Darrel, I wasn't aware the MAP sensor shared the same vacuum.
Tjeers
Steve
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spencer
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Post by spencer on Feb 4, 2013 18:04:00 GMT 2
HI Guys.
The liitle plastic maifold on the throttle body breaks easily and then it wont idle properly either. have had to repair mine 4 times.
REgards Spencer(or Chris, for Steves' sake)
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Feb 4, 2013 19:18:32 GMT 2
HI Guys. The liitle plastic maifold on the throttle body breaks easily and then it wont idle properly either. have had to repair mine 4 times. REgards Spencer(or Chris, for Steves' sake) Hey, I am Ihar, or Steve for everyone else's sake ... Tjeers The one previously known as Steve
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Christo
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Post by Christo on Feb 5, 2013 15:28:20 GMT 2
Steve I 'm currently looking in to building the interface.Downloaded some software to interprete the signals. Will keep you informed CHS
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Christo
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Post by Christo on Feb 22, 2013 16:21:43 GMT 2
H i Guys can any one help. My TBI is cutting out while driving when hot and after a while starts up and run as if nothing is wrong.Nothing wrong with idling or any thing els,in a week or two's it does the same thing again. Any idees? Christo
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Feb 22, 2013 19:25:13 GMT 2
Could be blocked main fuel filter and also check the "stocking" on the fuel pump pickup in the tank. This is assuming the vacuum tubes discussed above are in 100% condition
Spikes
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Post by ronnie on Feb 22, 2013 21:14:18 GMT 2
Hi Christo
Cutting out while hot is very often electrical related. I have been pulling out my hair with the MG with the same symptoms and It was the rotor arm. As soon as the car was warm it would cut out and by the time I had managed to check things it would start again only to cut out in a short time. I eventually discovered putting the rotor arm in the freezer for 2 minutes and then it would start again. A new rotor arm cured the problem. Trying the old rotor arm it started cutting out again. I should add the old rotor arm looked like new. You could also check the coil as it can give the same symptoms.
Ronnie
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