Weber Carburetters

[Hercules]

Hi Ronnie.

When the Weber set up is correct, it will give you more power and torque than the Solex. it will also be more economical than the Solex.

The Weber is just superior to the Solex. I am happy that your Lada is running well and that do not experience any problems with the carb set up.

Enjoy the Lada.

Regards.

Hercules

[ronnie]

Hi Hercules

I had it at Scotburgh today and it ran very nicely. We will see how it does on petrol then I will know if the main jets are right.

Ronnie

[marius]

Hi Ronnie

Glad your Weber is running nice and healthy - let us know what the fuel consumption is like.

Regards
Marius

[ronnie]

Hi Marius

One noticable difference is it starts first time now when it is hot. Before it sometimes took 3 go`s to get it to "catch"

Ronnie

[ronnie]

Hi Hercules

It is nice to see you also think the Weber is superior to the Solex . This could also cause comments from some quarters.

Ronnie

[marius]

Hi Ronnie

I'm going to let that one pass ;D ;D ;D

With Solex:

Cold start when the car has been standing for a couple of days - normally takes 3 turns to start.

Next day cold start it starts immediately - also on hot start.

The car must first be at running temp in order to idle at around 700-800. If it is cold it will not idle properly without the choke - I hope that last bit sounds normal

Regards
Marius

PS - = possible spare Solex ;D

[Charles]

Hi Ronnie

Im glad the weber is running so well. What was your fuel consumption with the solex?

Charles

[marius]

Hi Ronnie

Slightly OT but still about starting the car

One "odd" thing that I can mention is that when I start the car - esp when hot - something squeals for a couple of seconds until it "kicks in".

Now it could one of two things - I think. Ever since I lost my water pump I run the fan belt slightly more slack than I should - in order to protect the bearings in the pump. Most likely it could be the belt that slips for a couple of seconds?

I have never experienced any overheating issues because of that - even in mid-summer in the Swartland area.

OR it could be the pulley on the alternator or something in the alternator causing the noise?

The waterpump is still perfect - no movement on the shaft and no leaks.

It has been doing that for years - without any "side effects" - so far.

Regards
Marius

[Charles]

Hi Marius

Get some red rubber grease and put it on the bely. Only on one or two spots. Just the sides and underneath. Works like a charm.

Charles

[ronnie]

Hi Marius

Your cold start after 3 days sounds normal as you will have some petrol evaporation from the carb and with a mechanical pump the motor must turn to replenish the petrol. The spare carb most defiantly has blocked passages so how you will cure that I don`t know. Of course there is a penalty to be paid for it in the form of a long holiday visit ;D ;D ;D ;D

Ronnie

[ronnie]

Hi Charles

When it was running correctly I think about 12 litres per 100 km and remember a lot of my running is very short runs. With Ari`s and the Weber 36 DCD I think about 10 litres per 100km. In those days my runs were long 60km to work and 60 back.

Ronnie

[ronnie]

Hi Marius

If it has been doing that for a long time do nothing leave well alone!!!!

Ronnie

[marius]

Well now who's advice should I follow ;D

Tend to move towards Ronnie's corner - as that fits in nicely with my philosophy but the red rubber grease sounds good to me?

Regards
Marius

[Charles]

Hi Marius

We use it at work all the time. Makes the belt last longer aswell. Do not use it on a flat belt, ever. Makes it squeal. Nothing will cure it then except a new belt. I learned the hard way on a customer vehicle.

Charles

[spikes]

Hi Marius,
Dab some of the red goo on... if it was the fan belt it will cure the squeak. If not follow Ronnie's and live with it.
Regards
Spikes

[marius]

Hi Spikes/Charles

Ok you guys convinced me - I can live without the squeak ;D

Ronnie I am sure a nice long holiday at your place would be worth it - even without the Solex ;D

Regards
Marius

[ronnie]

Hi Marius

Before you try anything with the belt make sure you have a spare one. Of course you should have one anyway ;D ;D. I used to have a similar problem with one of the Landy`s flat belts and the only thing which cured it permanently was a new (quality) belt.

Ronnie

PS Train one of the Goats to do fence patrol and you can then come on holiday ;D

[Charles]

Hi Ronnie

How is the weber doing?

Charles

[ronnie]

Hi Charles

The Niva is running nicely and starts first time with the Weber unlike the Solex which was trying at times when hot. The petrol consumption looks bad but after I get the co2 checked I will organize other jets. I have checked the plugs and they are very white which indicates the jets are lean. This would be the idle jets as the mixture screw also indicates this. Remember the idle jets in the Weber are used to 2500 rpm. I also notice when the second choke opens you don`t feel much so I think the jets here are too small. In fact the secondary main jet is smaller than that specified for the 1600. I have been told they charge R150 at least for a jet here so I may need to order them from the UK at 2 pounds each (22 Rand)

Ronnie

[Charles]

Hi Ronnie

it just shows how we get riped off here. Im glad she is running better now.

Charles

[darryn]

Ahoy

Was playing around this morning on the computer to check where the distributer advance tube should be attached to the carb. Turns out I had put it in the completely wrong place (the intake manifold drainage tube- doh). So I set out to find out where it should go. Now, the EGR system for my Lada is supposed to be connected to the carb, but because my carb is not the original Solex carb, there are no ports for this tube- not that I could see anyway. My carb is a 34 ADF, which and the primary barrel is marked as 24 and the secondary barrel is marked as 26. Turns out that this is supposed to be a fiat carb and is flippen scarce. Here's a link to an ad on ebay with the exact same model (it's a relief to finally see one like mine).

www.dragtimes.com/parts/NEW-ITALIAN-WEBER-CARB-34-ADF-FIAT-124-125-131-132_270687604608.html

So, I took off the EGR valve, cleaned it up and got it working. I plugged the distributer advance tube into the valve and fired it up. The noise wasn't very encouraging. It looks like the diaphragm membrane is punctured. It sounds like a speaker that's blown. I didn't pick up any difference in how the engine was revving- though I don't really know what I'm listening for. Any ideas? I'm pretty sure none of you have an ADF carb, so I'm not expecting any fireworks, but maybe it's one of those "oh, that was a simple answer" instances.

Alrighty
Darryn.

[Ari Bezuidenhout]

Hi Darryn

"This carb features 24 and 26 mm venturis,and twin 34mm throttle butterflies."

The barrels are both 34mm, the 24mm and 26mm is the constriction to create negative pressure and so doing suck fuel thru from the jets.

Post some pics of it from differnt angles for us.

Ari

[Ari Bezuidenhout]

www.artigue.com/fiat/books/Artigue_FIAT_124_MM.pdf

Look on page 30-35

Ari

[darryn]

Thanks Ari- The ADF anti-pollution device hasn't been fitted to my carb, because there's no space for it, as the tappet cover would get in the way. Any ideas as to where my distributer advance tube should go?

[darryn]

I've seen something on page 85 that might work- I'll let you know.

[ronnie]

Hi Daryn

Do the easy thing with your EGR system and disconnect it all It is not needed and I doubt if many of them still work. I am not sure what you are referring to with the noise. If it is the distributor advance retard, suck on the pipe and make sure sure it is holding the vacuum. If it is working the engine speed will change if you suck when the motor is running. The vacuum take off for the distributor should be right at the base of the carb.

Ronnie

[darryn]

Hey guys

I've been trawling the Alfa Romeo club forums and I eventually found what I was looking for. The 34 ADF was used on late 1970's Alfa Spiders, and it turns out there is no ported vacuum on this carb for the dizzy advance. Drat. Start from square one I guess? Apparently the 34 ADFA has a port, but there will not be enough space for it as it is bolted on facing the tappet cover. But I'm done with this card. Any advice as to what I should get instead? I don't want to keep this carb because I'm hardly getting over 320km to a tank of fuel, which to me is unreasonable when in theory, I should be getting more for this.

[darryn]

I had a look on Junkmail and I might be able to get a 36DCD from a guy in Harties for under R1000. Should I buy this carb? I know some members have DCDs on the Nivas, so it doesn't seem to be a bad carb?

[ronnie]

Hi Darryn

The 36DCD is a good carb but it is also very old and not made now. That is why I went for a 32 / 36 DGAV. I still need to play with the jets, but I do so little kms that it is difficult to see what the consumption is in normal driving and not my short door to door. I checked my plugs the other day and I am running lean.

Ronnie

[Ari Bezuidenhout]

Hi Darryn

I have a 36 DCD on so will be able to help you if needed. Before you buy a second hand carb, find out what engine it comes off. If 1600 - 1800 the jets and settings should be close to right.

Only problem with this carb is that there is no port for the fuel return line so you need a 3 way hose connection.

Best way to know if the carb is good is to have it on the engine and test run it.

Ari

PS Let me know if you need a hand