spikes
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Post by spikes on Feb 28, 2013 7:10:46 GMT 2
That oil on the oil cap does not look good. Charles That looks like excessive crankcase pressure Spikes
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Feb 28, 2013 7:36:06 GMT 2
not to worry about that oil, it's probably just condension. But you should fix that crankcase problem.
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Feb 28, 2013 8:04:11 GMT 2
I think there is water in your oil. If the crank case breather is left open to atmosphere you will need to put a filter on it otherwise dirt and dust will get in the engine. You also need to plug the place where it attaches to the airbox, for the same reason.
Ari
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dimitris
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Post by dimitris on Feb 28, 2013 16:02:13 GMT 2
Hi all I changed the engine oil and the air filter in November last year. Now, nearly 4500 km, I opened the oil cap first time. It is normal during the winter, but not when the temperature is above 15 - 20 degrees. Also the air filter box and the filter still very clean. When there is oil in the air filter box may means engine wear, while the engine burns oil. my best regards Dimitris
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Feb 28, 2013 16:09:32 GMT 2
That is how it should be. Something is causing excessive pressure to build up in the crankcase of Jakob's NIVA to blow oil into the air filter housing like that.
Ari mentioned something similar last year. Not sure he fixed during his present rebuild
Jakob, how does the pressure look if you do a compression test?
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powdersnow
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Post by powdersnow on Feb 28, 2013 17:44:49 GMT 2
Ja, the slurm on cap is normal. i have to use my Niva a lot for short distance in city. And all time very very wet weather and around zero or below. With open breather i had less slurm, but also a little bit. < I think there is water in your oil. The oil it self looks good, it is just condension on the top of head. My engine is driven 10000km, last year was complete service. I will proof compression... Engine dont take much oil. <If the crank case breather is left open to atmosphere you will need <to put a filter on it otherwise dirt and dust will get in the engine. I had no filter, just open hose. A filter will get wet and freeze or not? On my old engine my breather was not open. Every day about 0,2L water was inside this seperator. When i dont reempty it freeze and can block the breathing. Many people tell me this is normal in winter? I have to search and reinstall it... Tomorrow i have tech. control. If compression is bad i will not pass it. Very strict here Thanks, Jakob
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Feb 28, 2013 19:15:31 GMT 2
Good luck with the MOT test Jakob!
It will be good to see the compression test results
Spikes
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dimitris
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Post by dimitris on Feb 28, 2013 19:56:08 GMT 2
Tomorrow i have tech. control. If compression is bad i will not pass it. Very strict here Good luck with the MOΤ......here are particularly strict on exhaust emissions. I see in your photo the Master sport brake servo...... What is your opinion about MS spare parts???
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Feb 28, 2013 20:39:14 GMT 2
Dimitris, some are good, some are rubbish. Al parts with rubber in or on it are junk. I have good experiences with clutches and gear box bearings. Brake pads seem ok too
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dimitris
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Post by dimitris on Feb 28, 2013 21:21:39 GMT 2
Thanks Jan. I have installed those red silicon cv boots since last May, inner - outer cv joints, and until now are very good, i can say excellent. What are your opinion about these parts? 8 tons ball joints4,5 tons tie rods end
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powdersnow
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Post by powdersnow on Mar 1, 2013 0:39:16 GMT 2
This pic is old... i dont have this Master Sport any more. Master Sport is lottery. Some parts are good, some are horrible quality. You never know. I dont use MS any more. Ball joint i use Lemförder. It is here the most expensive (about 12€ one) but also the best quality. Master Sport dont produce anything in Germany. All parts are from Poland, Russia, Ukraine, Serbia,... it is just logo. Compression test with warm engine dont bring result. 1: 10,75 2: 9,00 3: 9,25 4: 9,50 than 1 again: 9,00 ... my tester was very very cheap, i think it is bad. I install the absorber box: For tech. control i have to put out the extra spring in front: ... i hope all other modification will pass again greets Jakob
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powdersnow
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Post by powdersnow on Mar 3, 2013 0:33:04 GMT 2
;D ;D ;D
Very good result at control. Never before had that good result from engine in Niva:
Last year with Solex: (i pased just with reducing idle speed)
CO at idle: 2,14Vol% HC at idle: 583 ppm idle: 630U/min !!!!
This year:
CO: 1,91 Vol% HC: 311 ppm idle: 930
I am happy... after compression test i was little bit afraid...
greets Jakob
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Mar 3, 2013 6:13:41 GMT 2
Good news, Jakob!
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powdersnow
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Post by powdersnow on Jun 26, 2013 12:33:12 GMT 2
After meeting up Chris i changed engine oil. And dont like what i se on the magnet: Yesterday i open upside, it must be the small wheel downside. I never seen so round teeth, and they rund not more than 50 000km. Must be happend before last service. Last service only head was changed. What a great tool I am glad to find it before main engine brake down. I dont hear anything, engine runs fine. Magnet is very good! greets Jakob
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Jun 26, 2013 19:02:46 GMT 2
Hi Jakob
Sorry! At least you caught it before a really major break. More info would be interesting. What oil you were using? Wear on the gear teeth but the chain shows little wear. Was the chain replaced when you did the head?
Regards
Spikes
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dimitris
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Post by dimitris on Jun 29, 2013 22:19:57 GMT 2
Jakob what happened there??? I think it need dentist!!!!
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powdersnow
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Post by powdersnow on Jun 30, 2013 2:58:12 GMT 2
sorry, its late. Will tell you later more... just one pic in preview how many teeth left? now happy greets Jakob
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Jun 30, 2013 6:19:10 GMT 2
beyond salvage!
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dimitris
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Post by dimitris on Jun 30, 2013 8:32:12 GMT 2
I'm so sorry mate. Maybe the problem started from breaking of the chain damper. But I'm surprised .....you didn't hear any noise??? The valves are okay???
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Post by ronnie on Jun 30, 2013 11:33:26 GMT 2
Hi Jakob
The last time I had gears strip like that was in a Mini 850 in the 60`s.
Ronnie
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 30, 2013 17:51:19 GMT 2
Ouch, sorry to see that Jacob! I hope you aren't without your niva for too long
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powdersnow
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Post by powdersnow on Jul 1, 2013 10:54:05 GMT 2
My Niva is running again And never stopped running... i still cant believe engine was running with only 18 of 38 teeth left. This shows one more time how stable original Niva engen is. Now idle gas is running more stable. I am afraid of all the small metall parts now in engen. Will change oil two times in next weeks for getting it out. I change all wheels and chain. I dont understand why magnet looks so clean, must be full of metall? Chain damper looks good and stay. Chain and all wheels had been changed last summer. I drive less than 10 000km with this wheel: not the best quality I had changed oil twice since new head was placed last oktober, in this time about 5000km. I use Castrol Magnatec 10W40 all the year. I hope so I controlled the vlaves now three times, looks good. BUT i have different sound to before. I will see for valves again in 500km. Maybe there is a small edge from different chain time. greets Jakob
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Jul 1, 2013 11:11:26 GMT 2
The tensioner and and chain guide were working overtime with that lower gear. Visually there seems to be a difference in quality in the two gears.
The frequent changing of the oil will help, but really the engine should come out, be stripped and totally cleaned. Or rather, that is what I would have have done if this happened to me.
Thanks for the feedback. Oil is not the culprit
Regards
Spikes
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powdersnow
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Post by powdersnow on Jul 1, 2013 11:39:16 GMT 2
This will not be possible before Karpat Tour in three weeks. Hm. only thing i can do is open downside of engen and clean as much as i can reach. And after that chagning oil again.
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dimitris
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Post by dimitris on Jul 1, 2013 12:10:29 GMT 2
Hi Jakob My experience on the 1600 (maybe Jan or anyone else can confirm it) is that the camshaft of 1600 after 180-200,000 km has a wear, so it is not possible to tune the valves 100% correctly. I mean while you have adjust the valves, after when the engine runs you can hear the valves to knocking. So the only solution is to change the camshaft. Last year I changed mine after 250.000km.....with a used set of a 1700. Also every 40- 50.000km is good to change the chain damper preventively.
Maybe it's good to replace the oil filter with a magnetic one and of course you can clean the engine if you open from downside.
Regards Dimitris
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Jul 1, 2013 12:14:35 GMT 2
Jakob, as a fairly quick fix, you may want to remove the sump, where most of the pieces will be lying and get them out.
I say quick fix, but it does take a few hours.
Tjeers
Steve
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Jul 1, 2013 13:11:50 GMT 2
This will not be possible before Karpat Tour in three weeks. Hm. only thing i can do is open downside of engen and clean as much as i can reach. And after that chagning oil again. Hi Jakob That is what Steve is also suggesting Regards Spikes
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powdersnow
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Post by powdersnow on Jul 3, 2013 11:52:47 GMT 2
Thanks for all your answers! I will try this, not cheap but some tell me it really make sense. magnetI will remove oil sump. I only can dream about that. My last after 5000km looked like that: It was last year in summer. Magnet looked like that: And the actual is running only 5000km. So it shouldnt has big wear already... if quality is not too bad... greets Jakob
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Jul 3, 2013 13:24:36 GMT 2
Hi Jakob
To me that lobe looks like excessive wear. Why I cannot tell.
In my experience I have never had a camshaft replace due to wear. On several vehicles, have exceeded 300000km
Regards
Spikes
Ps. do you have a picture of the clean magnetic sump plug. The pic above looks like it has sludge on it?
S
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powdersnow
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Post by powdersnow on Jul 4, 2013 13:44:03 GMT 2
I have to tell you more about my engine- history, it is not that simple. I only still have my Niva because i realy like it. Sometimes i was thinking about throwing away, but i am very happy not to do so. Also you have to know i didnt knew anything about cars or engine before bying Niva. Learning by doing or so I bought Niva with original 1600 engine. No KAT or electronic. Was running ok but needed oil. Not that much but it was a problem. In Austria all cars must not take oil. Only very very little is possible, exhaust is very strikt regulated. So i had to service it. No money that time and so i drive to friend in Ukraine. We open engine and see one zylinder was changed and no good quality. After one week work engine was drilled, all new zylinder, head cleaned and all mech. parts new. Felt very good and strong for a time. After one year again technical control and bad exhaust. Oil taking got more and more and heat problems. On 2/3 way to Serbia engine stopped completly. Last 100km i had to fill ine 2 liter water after 10km... A friend serviced me an other 1600 engine, also everything new, drilled to maximum and very good quality. We had been thinking. Camshaft after 5000km looked like that: Engine was running until this moment ok, i still reached 130km/h with big wheels. It realized the bad camshaft just two days before last year Karpat tour. I wanted to try and replaced the camshaft to a good used one, set vents and drive to Ukraine. 100km before border engine lost power again. In UA we open engine and cam again bad. All engine was full of small metal parts. So again big service. New zylinder, and all mech. parts. And new head. I was on tour and could´nt see for the work. This was bad, after 2000km engine take oil and loose water. Much white smoke. After replacing the head everything was clear. Normal head gasket and sealant was added. A lot of sealant. So nearly all oil and water canals had been blocked, thats crazy work. Sorry, i dont find the pic of it at moment... This time only change haed, engine block is still inside. This is some of my engine history, also i had three carburator in this time. You wanna know why i never service engine at home in Austria? Here one hour working man cost about 200€. In Ukraine or Serbia about 2€. Also not any mechanican in Austria has an idea about old cars like Niva, only computer and changing parts is what they can do for you. So i started to learn about engine, still a long way to go. At moment camshaft look good. No big wear to see. I really hope this engine can stay little bit longer inside... at least till after Karpat tour. Ja, the magnet was full of sludge that time. All from bad camshaft. Tomorrow i will install a magnet on oil filter. Inside engine is fresh oil. I will drive about 200km and than open oil sump and clean as good as possible and put in cheap oil for 500km. Than change again to normal 15W40 and go to Karpat. I think it is most i can do, or you have another/ better idea? thanks, greets Jakob
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