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Post by Charles on Jan 30, 2011 17:33:17 GMT 2
Thanks Ari.
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Feb 11, 2011 13:28:12 GMT 2
Hi All I recieved my CV today. 4 days after it left England. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D Here are some pics. It is a different type without a cage. Ari
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Feb 11, 2011 13:32:28 GMT 2
I was quite surprised, it came with a pair of gloves, a tube of CV grease, a circlip, 2 boot ties and the rubber boot all for 50 GBP. AMAZING Ari PS Danie or Marius can you maybe add his details to the spare part suppliers list in that thread? Neil Chowney Lada Parts UK www.Lada.co.uk07876 387069
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Post by marius on Feb 11, 2011 21:00:51 GMT 2
THAT IS AMAZING ARI I am happy for you - I have done some business with them before but I think the guy I dealt with was Allen? They are fairly priced and the service is good. Interesting design! Is that a Russian part? Regards Marius
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Feb 11, 2011 21:58:11 GMT 2
Hi Marius
I think so as it has Russian, German and English writing on. I asked Neil and he says this CV is a better design than the older type.
Ari
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Post by marius on Feb 11, 2011 22:05:45 GMT 2
It is great to see that they are still developing and improving parts for the Niva after all these years!
The price you quoted - was it ALL included?
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Feb 11, 2011 22:22:00 GMT 2
Yip 53GBP for the CV with all the above and 58GBP for the postage.
Ari
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Post by Charles on Feb 11, 2011 22:49:24 GMT 2
Ari those tipes of cvs never breaks! Just a tip, if you ever have to remove the sideshaft be careful as the bearing has a tendancy to fall off. No matter how much you try you can not get the rollers back in. Has happened to me twice. Try explaing that to the customer if the cv costs R2000!
Charles
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Post by marius on Feb 12, 2011 7:05:52 GMT 2
Not bad Ari - NOT BAD AT ALL!
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Post by jaco1978 on Aug 1, 2011 16:17:54 GMT 2
Hi Everyone, As I had Kursk on bokkies to remove the coils I had a look at my CV's. I found the left inner CV boot torn and decided to replace it. I had a read in the manual but I'm getting lost between it and the actual doing. I'm having trouble to see what is holding the outer CV joint together as I wanted to work inwards towards the inner CV. Any advice on this? Regards, Jaco
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Aug 1, 2011 16:46:43 GMT 2
Replace both boots on the shaft while you are at it. I've done this job 3 times since Nov last year ;D
Total job time = 3 hours
1 Remove wheel. 2 Remove lower shock absorber bolt: Size 17 3 Remove chome wheel bearing tightening nut cover: screwdriver 4 Remove 3 bolts holding lower balljoint to hub: Size 13 5 Remove wheel bearing tightening nut: Size 27 6 Remove Inner CV boot: Knife 7 Remove wire circlip from inner CV: Small flat screwdriver 8 Lift lower wishbone and pull hub away from vehicle once free from wishbone: Trolley jack 9 While pulling hub away push side shaft through hub 10 Now that outer end of side shaft is free, pull side shaft outwards (will make squelching noise. 11Cut the rest of inner boot free: Knife 12 Remove the 6 balls. 13 Hold cage up while hammering CV inner part off: Hammer (large and dont be scared to bliksem it) 14 Remove outer boot. 14.2 Using a long socket extension hit the inner race with a large hammer while clamping the sideshaft to separate the sideshaft from the CV. 14.3 Push the race and cage in on one side and remove the balls from the other side, one at a time. You can push on the race with a screw driver to exert more force. The push the other side in to remove the other balls. 14.4 2 of the holes where the balls are located in the cage are larger than the other 4. turn the race so that the one ridge fits into the hole an twist it to remove. 14.5 Now align the 2 larger holes with the ridges on the inner edge of the CV housing and remove. 14.6 Clean all old grease out and reassmble in reverse order. 15 Remove all old grease. 16 Replace grease in outer boot. 17 Put new outer boot on + ties: Water pliers + screwdriver + kettle 18 Put new inner boot on + ties: Water pliers + screwdriver + kettle 19 Put cage over side shaft 20 Put CV inner part on: Hammer 21Pull cage over inner CV part and rub some grease in the holes where the balls go and then push the balls in. 22 Put enough new grease in inner CV joint housing. 23 Push side shaft back in joint housing. 24 Push outer part of drive shaft back through hub. 25 Finger tighten hub nut only!!!!!!! 26 Jack wishbone back up to reattach 3 bolts to hub: Size 13 27 Reattach shock absorber: Size 17 28 Replace wire circlip in inner CV joint. 29 Pull inner boot over CV housing and replace clips 30 Now tighten wheel bearing adjusting nut according to the manual: Size 27 and torque wrench 31 Replace chome wheel bearing tightening nut cover: Hammer 32 Replace wheel 33 Clean the blerrie mess!!!!!
Ari If you need more detail somewhere just ask ;D
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Post by ronnie on Aug 1, 2011 17:48:13 GMT 2
H Ari
That saves me all the effort of remembering how to do it step by step ;D
Ronnie
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Aug 1, 2011 17:56:43 GMT 2
Hi Ronnie
Yes and we wouldn't want to exert your memory too much, would we??
Ari
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vincentc
Veteran Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 1,130
Registered: Mar 16, 2011 17:59:16 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
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Post by vincentc on Aug 1, 2011 20:01:19 GMT 2
Hi Ari What about the front coil spring? Does that not need to be held before you move the lower wishbone? I did my CV boots about 8000 km ago and still remember fighting the hub Regards Vincent
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Post by jaco1978 on Aug 1, 2011 20:24:28 GMT 2
Ari, many thank for that rather detailed breakdown. I have managed to find that bugger of a wire circlip amongst a stack of grease. That seem to be the crux of my whole mission. I will continue with the rest tomorrow. I'm looking forward to the smacking with the big hammer part. ;D
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Post by jaco1978 on Aug 1, 2011 20:26:27 GMT 2
Vincent, I have removed all 4 coils, so no membership for me to the fight-the-hub-club. However, I'm dreading to ponder the re-fitting of those coils! Eish!
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vincentc
Veteran Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 1,130
Registered: Mar 16, 2011 17:59:16 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
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Post by vincentc on Aug 1, 2011 20:34:14 GMT 2
Jaco,
The refitting of the coils may just be a job for the bush mechanics you have all around you. They will have them in place in a flash.
Regards Vincent
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Post by jaco1978 on Aug 1, 2011 20:37:27 GMT 2
Vincent, I'm in Josie. Oi! I have taken a week's vacation to come to Josie. Somehow that does not sits well. I'm the only bush mech now, at least around here. ;D ;D ;D
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Aug 1, 2011 21:09:15 GMT 2
Hi Ari What about the front coil spring? Does that not need to be held before you move the lower wishbone? I did my CV boots about 8000 km ago and still remember fighting the hub Regards Vincent No 8: use trolley jack to lift wishbone flange off hub ball joint. You do not need to remove the coils. Ari
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Post by keithbatkins on Aug 2, 2011 10:26:53 GMT 2
Hi Jaco....in Johannesburg.....just up the highway from me. I am guessing that you don't have 'KURSK' with you. Otherwise I could 'lend you' a couple of the local Informal Settlement 'mechanics' ( ?) who would sort out the coils for you.....'eish no problemo'. Regards, Keith.
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Post by jaco1978 on Aug 2, 2011 10:58:46 GMT 2
Keith, Kursk is with me and is getting a loada TLC...erm...or should I say; Lada TLC. ;D
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Post by jaco1978 on Aug 2, 2011 11:03:28 GMT 2
I have figured that the CV22K boot would fit, but it seems the "smaller" end of the boot is way too big for the shaft. The CV19K boot fits nice and tight but then the plastic guard does not have a proper point to sit. The CV19K also seem to be a bit more on the cramped (read: smaller) side.
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Post by keithbatkins on Aug 2, 2011 11:53:31 GMT 2
Hi Jaco, if you are at a loose end while in Johannesburg just give me a ring on 072 993 4955 and we can arrange to go for a beer or two at the Radium Beer Hall. Don't worry about driving if KURSK is in pieces we can pick you up from where you are staying. Regards, Keith and CERATO
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Aug 2, 2011 12:30:03 GMT 2
I have figured that the CV22K boot would fit, but it seems the "smaller" end of the boot is way too big for the shaft. The CV19K boot fits nice and tight but then the plastic guard does not have a proper point to sit. The CV19K also seem to be a bit more on the cramped (read: smaller) side. You do not need the plastic guard. Go with the one that fits best. Ari
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Post by ronnie on Aug 2, 2011 13:39:07 GMT 2
Hi Jaco
I have used the CV22K boot and had no problems. I did not have the plastic guards, they must have disappeared long ago.
Ronnie
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Post by jaco1978 on Aug 2, 2011 15:08:29 GMT 2
Ari, the CV19K did the trick and I managed a mod with the plastic guard. All fitted and good to go (I hope). ;D
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Aug 2, 2011 15:13:59 GMT 2
Nice glad to be of assistence ;D
Ari
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Post by jaco1978 on Aug 2, 2011 15:50:46 GMT 2
Nice glad to be of assistence ;D Ari T'nx again mate, Now that I have done it it seem to be fairly easy. ;D It just takes time.
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Post by jaco1978 on Aug 2, 2011 16:11:25 GMT 2
Hi Jaco, if you are at a loose end while in Johannesburg just give me a ring on 072 993 4955 and we can arrange to go for a beer or two at the Radium Beer Hall. Don't worry about driving if KURSK is in pieces we can pick you up from where you are staying. Regards, Keith and CERATO Keith, t'nx for the offer but I'm running around like a mad person. We have been putting in a lot of effort into Kursk the last 8 days or so and luckily I managed to get tomorrow off as well to get it all done. The thirst might get the better of me. Let me just see how things get on into the evening.
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butasteve
Senior Niva Petrol Head
Posts: 366
Location: Western Cape
Town: Paarl
Registered: Jan 22, 2011 12:02:42 GMT 2
Karma: Exalt | Smite
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Post by butasteve on Aug 4, 2011 11:07:12 GMT 2
Dear All Good morning. Been a while since I last checked here. Thanks for all the new info. Still in the process to get our Lada ready for the Spring/Summer Time.
If this is seen as a hihjack - Delete.
Yesterday after work I went to visist a Gentlem, whom I recently met. He's also a Lada owner and do all the work on his car by himself.
Just some background for what it's worth. I'm not claiming any fame, nor saying what he does/did it the way it should be done. He took me for a ride - Off-Roading along the Bergriver in Paarl. Sand, Water, Grass, Mud, obstacles - a breeze- much more comfortable than my car on my normal outings to the farms.
The front seats is replaced by seats from a Corsa. Most of the plastic trimmings is removed. Steering Box/Rack mod. The inner door panels is replaced with Marine ply. Handles & Window Winders=homemade. Firestone ATX tyres fitted. Roofrack with Twin Sparewheels & Spots. Homemade Rocksliders and Bashplate to protect/cover diffs/GB. Modified rear diff fitted to the front. Handbrakes on each front wheel: He show me how it works, when a wheel in the air starts spinning - Three (3) HB Levers. Modified Braking System - too technical too remember. Nylon made Oil Seals Inner. Rubbers on gearlvers replaced with Nylon - Feels like a close-ratio/racing GB. CV's replaced/Modified with Mazda Etude's. He claims that he does not have problems...
This guy, Pieter, also mentioned that Outer CV Joints is available from Autozone - He does not have the part no. Does anybody know of an Aftermarket/Replacement CV-Joint
This morning I spoke to a Lady @ Chris Swale Motors. She said: "We do not do CV Joints. CV's are Standard and can be repaired at any CV Joint Specialist Workshop. You can just take it there and asked to have it repaired. There's nothing to CV's. We take all our CV's to a local CV Place." I spoke to Jan after that. He said: "Hoekom ry jy die kar stukkend, jy moet dit mos in stand hou. Die prys van 'n nuwe CV is R3 800. Ek kan vir jou 'n Recon gee @ R1800."
Guys, please in all honesty: Do you repair or do you buy new CV's. How much do you pay. I've bought a 2nd/refurb CV a while back - it's fitted. Last night Pieter checked my CV's and yes there's also excessive play on that CV. He said that he's willing to assist me with the mods, should like to go that way - very tempting. I know that CV Joints must have been discussed, but please bear with me.
Regards Stephen
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