Citfield
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Post by Citfield on Feb 18, 2013 11:07:59 GMT 2
Hello All
What is the accepted play on the front prop shaft. Mine has got a 1/4 turn on it.
Regards, Allen
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Feb 18, 2013 11:42:11 GMT 2
that is too much, but not sure of the actual acceptable play
Ari
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Feb 18, 2013 12:34:40 GMT 2
Perhaps Jan (ladanivabelgium) can advise, but a quarter turn sounds too much.
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Post by marius on Feb 18, 2013 13:30:59 GMT 2
I have always had quite a bit of play on the front, but mine is definitely less than a quarter. Mine is probably half of that amount of play.
Marius
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Citfield
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Post by Citfield on Feb 18, 2013 15:18:40 GMT 2
Thanks guys. I realized it is a lot of pay. My Dad said to me the weekend that most of the diffs you can set to change the play. Does the Lada have this function also?
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Post by marius on Feb 18, 2013 15:36:21 GMT 2
There should be but my feeling is that it has probably more to do with actual wear on the pinion and the crown wheel?
Marius
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oldschool
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Post by oldschool on Feb 18, 2013 18:03:03 GMT 2
wear on crown wheel and pinion will result in a noisy diff...you are referring to backlash, and yess you will be able to adjust it to a certain extent...Ive worked on top end toyota landcruisers where this is the case sometimes and although you are able to adjust it and remove some of the play there always will remain play on some of them more than others...
just my 2c
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spikes
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Post by spikes on Feb 18, 2013 18:25:51 GMT 2
The section in the workshop manual on rear differential covers the preload adjustment quite well. Jan also did a write up when he fitted the lock diff to his NIVA
Gut feel... if it is not making a loud slap when you pull off it should be OK
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Citfield
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Post by Citfield on Feb 18, 2013 19:55:33 GMT 2
Thanks guys for the responses.
The reason i am asking about the play, is that there is a very strange noise on the lada. Not sure where the noise is coming from, sounds like the front diff.
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oldschool
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Post by oldschool on Feb 18, 2013 22:01:07 GMT 2
If its an whining noise it might be the diff...only trail and error would tell you that...
Everything so close to each other due to the SWB it can be alot of things responsible for the noise....
Youl have disconect the rear propshaft, engage 4x4 and hear if the noise is still there or not? same with the rear...therefore when noise is missing you will certain if one of the diffs was the culprit or not!
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Citfield
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Post by Citfield on Feb 18, 2013 22:08:43 GMT 2
It is not a whining noise, it is more of a scratching noise, but only now and then. I can't test if it is the front diff, because the back prop shaft is out of balance, first have to balance that prop, but the noise does sound worst since i have removed the back prop shaft or maybe i am just going crazy .
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Feb 19, 2013 6:47:05 GMT 2
1/4 of a turn backlash is way too much. It can be adjusted, but it's not a hobby mechanics job. You don't go crazy: there will be more noise with the back prop removed, 100% of the power is now going to the front diff. This won't last, it's not designed to handle al the torque
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Citfield
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Post by Citfield on Feb 19, 2013 7:54:39 GMT 2
Hello Jan, thanks a lot. Do you maybe know how much it must be?
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Feb 19, 2013 8:52:33 GMT 2
0.08 - 0.13 mm
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Citfield
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Post by Citfield on Feb 19, 2013 9:16:34 GMT 2
Thanks Jan.
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Post by Charles on Feb 19, 2013 20:51:54 GMT 2
That dial gauge looks older than me...
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Citfield
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Post by Citfield on Feb 20, 2013 21:07:54 GMT 2
How many bolts are there on the front diff to get it out? Have to take it out to repair it.
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Ihar
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Post by Ihar on Feb 21, 2013 7:57:38 GMT 2
It aint an easy job is all I can say, but at least you can run in RWD in the mean time, just engage your diff lock.
Tjeers
Steve
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Citfield
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Post by Citfield on Feb 21, 2013 8:04:12 GMT 2
Thanks Steve, somebody has to do it .
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Post by Ari Bezuidenhout on Feb 21, 2013 8:07:38 GMT 2
3 bolts, but you will need to remove the hubs and side shafts as well.
Ari
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Feb 21, 2013 8:14:11 GMT 2
it's about 1-1.5 hours job when you're used to doing it.
- jack up the car - drain the diff - remove both front wheels - remove the front bearing nuts - remove the brake callipers - de-attach the steering rods - remove the lower shock absorber bolt - de-attach the upper ball joints (be carefull, the spring is under tension) - de-attach the drive shafts from the diff - remove the drive shafts - remove the front propeller shaft - remove the 2 remaining nuts/bolts holding the diff up - remove the diff from te car
that 'll be about it. Probably i've forgotten something but some one will correct me soon enough ;D
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Citfield
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Post by Citfield on Feb 21, 2013 9:55:15 GMT 2
Thanks Ari and JAn.
JAn, with all those things to do, will take me 1 - 1.5 weeks, not hours haha.
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Post by marius on Feb 21, 2013 10:37:58 GMT 2
Jan mentioned that you should be careful as the spring is under tension. I STRONGLY advise that you get a spring retainer to keep the spring in place just to be sure you don't get seriously injured. Also remember that there is a third bolt on the bracket on the right hand side.
Not a tough job - as long as you follow the above instructions.
Marius
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Citfield
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Post by Citfield on Feb 21, 2013 17:13:12 GMT 2
Thanks Marius, i will definitely follow the steps.
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ladanivabelgium
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Post by ladanivabelgium on Feb 21, 2013 19:15:07 GMT 2
as for the spring: putting an extra jack under the lower triangle near to the lower ball joint is enough. I do it all the time like that
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Post by marius on Feb 21, 2013 20:36:52 GMT 2
True: always have a jack in position when you do this job - the spring retainer is just there as a safety precaution in case things go wrong - AND believe me they do when you least expect it!
Marius
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